Clakejr

Drip V72 version 2
« on: September 03, 2020, 11:27:42 PM »
I need assistance. I can't find any information on this; as far as an Guide BOM  tips or handy tricks or Case for the finished build. All the information I find seems to be for the old boards and contacting Drip is next to impossible during this period... Can someone please help a fella out.


Re: Drip V72 version 2
« Reply #1 on: September 04, 2020, 12:20:26 AM »
I need assistance. I can't find any information on this; as far as an Guide BOM  tips or handy tricks or Case for the finished build. All the information I find seems to be for the old boards and contacting Drip is next to impossible during this period... Can someone please help a fella out.

Feel you man. The collective case case for the new dual Sta revision wasn’t quite right and I’ve had tons of unanswered questions even though there is some build info. It probably have the same universal PSU as the dual Sta so If you have any psu questions I may be able to answer. As for the mainboard, Id follow the silk and if it looks like a big resistor use a large wat 3-5 depending on the size. Otherwise 1 watt should work. Use 1% just in case.


scott2000

Re: Drip V72 version 2
« Reply #2 on: September 04, 2020, 02:46:02 AM »

Martan

Re: Drip V72 version 2
« Reply #3 on: September 10, 2020, 10:54:18 AM »
Yep. That's the right link. There are two links to mouser carts in the BOM as well. If you are going with Sowter trannys order them sooner than later. I'm going on 15 weeks for my last order. I got the generic case from collective cases. Probably a good thing so you can decide what extra features (48V, phase, pad, etc) you want on your build.

Re: Drip V72 version 2
« Reply #4 on: September 10, 2020, 08:55:39 PM »
I built this and dumped many hours into troubleshooting noise (hum). The answer I finally got was that I needed to build it with DC heaters. I was a bit underwhelmed by this as I would expect someone to make an expensive PCB to run w/o reliance on special means of getting the noise to an acceptable level. Or, that they'd at least advertise it up front. So, plan to build with DC heaters.
I think I'm going to strip all the components off my boards, built point-to-point, and sell the boards.

One of the the board members in EU sold me 48v/phase boards to use with this. I forget who it was but they are probably in the white market section. I can look it up if you need.

If you're missing any docs or struggle with anything, let me know.

My3gger

Re: Drip V72 version 2
« Reply #5 on: September 26, 2020, 11:57:50 AM »
I'm noticing many people having problems here with Drip V72 and R47 pcb boards. This is partialy due to lack of experiences but also huge pcb (for what it is), having all sorts of solutions which could be a lot simpler and effective. Good build guide and support are also lacking, i haven't check those for years but questions here are still the same. Parts are pretty expensive because of mentioned approach, for example many big and expensive film caps probably after lytics don't make sense ime, if it should be quite simple build.
Making such preamps or other simple gear p2p would be simpler, despite requiring a bit more drilling/cutting and learning groudings which is also needed for pcb. Since documentation isn't good even for pcb, making it p2p might require less hassle and provide knowledge for further projects.
I wouldn't use meters, make Gyraf like psu if beginner as i was 20 years ago when making first p2p (it is class a where diodes, regulators or zeners sound the same without problem associated with tube psu), pads/attenuators could also be simpler while functioning properly, etc.

Re: Drip V72 version 2
« Reply #6 on: September 26, 2020, 10:25:47 PM »
I'm noticing many people having problems here with Drip V72 and R47 pcb boards. This is partialy due to lack of experiences but also huge pcb (for what it is), having all sorts of solutions which could be a lot simpler and effective. Good build guide and support are also lacking, i haven't check those for years but questions here are still the same. Parts are pretty expensive because of mentioned approach, for example many big and expensive film caps probably after lytics don't make sense ime, if it should be quite simple build.
Making such preamps or other simple gear p2p would be simpler, despite requiring a bit more drilling/cutting and learning groudings which is also needed for pcb. Since documentation isn't good even for pcb, making it p2p might require less hassle and provide knowledge for further projects.
I wouldn't use meters, make Gyraf like psu if beginner as i was 20 years ago when making first p2p (it is class a where diodes, regulators or zeners sound the same without problem associated with tube psu), pads/attenuators could also be simpler while functioning properly, etc.

Some of the cap recommendations are a bit on the "audiophile" side of the street. Not only are they unnecessarily expensive, but I don't feel that they always help the sound. I personally don't see the point in building vintage tube circuits and then spend a ton on caps that are super clean sounding. I haven't favored the super-exotic caps in A/B comparisons I've done. If I was building a hifi I might feel differently.


 

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