Gssl power supply

My ssl type is almost complete, all I have to do is the power supply.

local voltage is 230V 50Hz(New Zealand)

The transformer I got from RS is 347-2565
This should work?

somethings I dont unerstand
0-18V -understand
2,5VA -understand
0,125AT? -this is the magnemotive force(ampere-turns, At)?
VC? 5,0/2/18 ???


I just worked out how to wire up the ac inlet (10A fuse)but which wires go from there to which pins on the primary?

Am sticking with the onboard mounting way.

Cheers, any help graceously accepted.

I have a bit to add...building a few in the US that need to work on 110-120V/60HZ but also in the UK and the EU at 220-240V/50HZwhen i move back there...

can anyone recommend a toroidal transformer .

i was thinking to have a voltage switch before the transformer.. .. have already started reverse engineering a few different power supplies i have seen that have this function.... Just wondering what transformer would be good to use...

... off to sleep now... with audio diy dreams.....

Ulveco, Norway.

0-18V -understand
2,5VA -understand
0,125AT? -this is the magnemotive force(ampere-turns, At)?
VC? 5,0/2/18 ???

Click to expand...

The last line tells you that it is a 5VA transformer with two secondary windings at 18V each. That means you have 2,5VA per winding, which gives you 0.139mA of current. Is this enough for the gssl, seems a little low to me? Anyone?

I just worked out how to wire up the ac inlet (10A fuse)but which wires go from there to which pins on the primary?

Click to expand...

10A fuse? That seems really, really high for solid state design! My tube guitar amps have 2A fuses...
The phase goes to one end of the primary on the PT, the neutral wire goes to the other end of the primary. The ac ground wire goes to the chassis. In germany the colors are:
brown = phase (hot)
blue = neutral wire
yellow/green = ground
The colors may well be differen in your country though!! You have to check this out!!

2.5VA per rail is just about enough for the clone. BUT don't expect to be able to draw current for a meter light with this transformer.

And yes, Ulveco makes great toroids. Their local branch - in Hadsund, Denmark - makes some pretty amazing transformers for my Gyraf stuff..

Jakob E.

quadwould said:

I have a bit to add...building a few in the US that need to work on 110-120V/60HZ  but also in the UK and the EU at 220-240V/50HZwhen i move back there...

can anyone recommend a toroidal transformer .

i was thinking to have a voltage switch before the transformer..  .. have already started reverse engineering a few different power supplies i have seen that have this function....    Just wondering what transformer would be good to use...

... off to sleep now... with audio diy dreams.....

Click to expand...

I have the same question:
I'm building a new GSSL and want the unit to be US and EU voltage friendly (switchable)
Is that even possible for this unit?

Does it need a different toroidal transformer than the usual one, or can it be done with just a simple "voltage selector" instalment? 

Does it need a different toroidal transformer than the usual one, or can it be done with just a simple "voltage selector" instalment?

Click to expand...

I don't know what the transformer is you are referring to (the usual one?) but, a selector switch  wires the primaries to work at  voltage selected....So , the transformer would have dual primaries... Some/(all?) TL Audio units have a switch for instance...

https://groupdiy.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=44989.0;attach=10813

Thanks Scott.

The transformer im planning to use is: GSSL Audio Toroidal Transformer Prim: 2x 115 - Sec: 2x 15v
and can be found here: https://www.don-audio.com/GSSL-Audio-Toroidal-Transformer-Prim-2-x-115-Sec-2-x-15v-Center-tap

I appreciate the answer you came up with.
I'm not experienced in electronic, im just good with the soldering iron and following instructions. Still a noobie at DIY.

So i thought that maybe putting in a volt-select switch wasn't just possible, when messing with current/voltage and all that stuff.

So you're suggesting that it's possible with this tranformer i've linked to?

So you're suggesting that it's possible with this tranformer i've linked to?

Click to expand...

The description in your link shows how to wire it for either voltage so I would say yes in this case.... even though there are no specs.....

Okay great.

Because i thought when you had to solder the coloured wires together, it would be either one way or the other way, for the region you're at, as a permanent solution. So you have to choose one over the other, right?
Europa 230V Series Usage:
Orange & White together, Yellow to IEC 1 (L), Purple to IEC 2 (N or reverse)

USA  110V Parallel Usage:
White & Purple together to Mains IEC 1, Orange & Yellow together to Mains IEC 2

So, does that mean i still have to solder them the EU way or..?
I apologise, i really don't know anything about this. I love the learning process though, so thank you very much for your time.

Maybe  look at the way the TL audio unit I posted does the switch . Make a drawing substituting colors or whatever with what you are trying to do.  See if that turns out anything....

scott2000 said:

Maybe  look at the way the TL audio unit I posted does the switch . Make a drawing substituting colors or whatever with what you are trying to do.  See if that turns out anything....

Click to expand...

Thank you. Unfortunately i can't read/understand schematics..  :-[
I don't know what im trying to do, all this is gibberish to me.

I just wanna know if it's possible (electronically) to add a voltage-selection-switch to a GSSL, since Gyraf hasn't offered this in the build. I don't know if such thing is even possible without redoing the whole system and design, again, im a noob. I have only "built" some 1176'er from Hairball, which was sooo easy for a beginner as everthing was spelled out, step by step, even a child could do it so that's pretty much my level of understanding here.. a 12 year old trying to build a compressor.

And if it is possible (and hopefully simple procedure) I will then go and find out how to do it (volt-switch)

Thank you. Unfortunately i can't read/understand schematics..  :-[

Click to expand...

Ok. It's definitely a top choice to learn the basics when wanting to troubleshoot,build,etc... you may be surprised how quickly you can pick up a useful understanding of how they work...

I don't know what im trying to do, all this is gibberish to me.

Click to expand...

You want to add a voltage selector to be able to use your unit with say USA voltages or European voltages??i.e.  115vac or 230vac?? Not sure why you need this but this is what I gathered your question was.

I just wanna know if it's possible (electronically) to add a voltage-selection-switch to a GSSL, since Gyraf hasn't offered this in the build.

Click to expand...

You are now  basically the switch by deciding how to wire up the transformer primaries . You want to add a mechanical switch that makes this easier than desoldering wires and reconnecting them every time you want to use it with a different mains voltage.
I would never need this feature and I could see by having it added to a build, it could mistakenly be switched incorrectly and cause problems. So it's not a bad thing to be excluded from a build imo.

I have only "built" some 1176'er from Hairball, which was sooo easy

Click to expand...

https://www.hairballaudio.com/blog/resources/build-guides/building-the-power-supply

talks about the same thing pretty much....

And if it is possible (and hopefully simple procedure) I will then go and find out how to do it (volt-switch)

Click to expand...

Simple is different for everyone. 

You'll get it.

Okay good, we understand each other now.

I've seen all the "easy way of reading/understanding schematics" videos on YouTube -but it's still like Chinese to me.

scott2000 said:

You are now basically the switch by deciding how to wire up the transformer primaries. <-- i don't understand this. You want to add a mechanical switch that makes this easier than desoldering wires and reconnecting them every time you want to use it with a different mains voltage.<-- YES, correct. I would never need this feature and I could see by having it added to a build, it could mistakenly be switched incorrectly and cause problems. So it's not a bad thing to be excluded from a build imo. <-- i totally get it, but i need the freedom to bring the gear with me when im in California. It's important to me. -just like any other gear that we purchase, almost all of them can change voltage between regions.

Click to expand...

[size=12pt]The Hairball link you've attached, it isn't the same built guide that i've done.
It's the old version and i only done the "new version, much simpler & easier version, for dummies" built.
I'm not sure that the old built even has a volt-selector, like the new built guide:
https://www.hairballaudio.com/blog/resources/build-guides/fetrack-v2-build-and-calibration-guide
It uses this voltage selector, which is the same one that i had in mind, for adding to GSSL.

Honestly, i still dint know if my request is possible or not.
Don't feel like i've got a straight yes or no answer, like:
NO it's not possible, that's not how electronics works OR yes you can and here's how to do it

SO, just to be clear, you are saying that it is possible, by reading & understanding the Hairball guide you've attached, and just go on and buy a volt-selector and solder it in, somewhere between the Transformer and IEC input?

SO, just to be clear, you are saying that it is possible, by reading & understanding the Hairball guide you've attached, and just go on and buy a volt-selector and solder it in, somewhere between the Transformer and IEC input?
[/size]

Click to expand...

I just included the build guide because it mentioned Hairball and 1176 :-[

It explains the primary parallel and series connections for setting up for different mains voltages.

I believe you can do what you are asking. It wouldn't make sense to give instructions on how to wire it up for either mains voltages if the transformer wasn't up to the task......

Like I said, You are ,at the moment,  the switch, deciding how to wire  up the primaries. Series or parallel...and you can undo it one way and do it the other.....switch the way it is wired.......

You'd rather leave that to an actual switch.

The Hairball switch looks perfect and has a nice pcb for it.....  Yes, you are thinking right.....between iec and power transformer primary.....

https://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/630963-240v-120v-volt-wiring-switch.html

PRR said:

https://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/630963-240v-120v-volt-wiring-switch.html

Click to expand...

Thank you PRR.
Hopefully this will make sense to me when getting ready to solder.
I might get back to you if I mess it up  ;D

Hey there. Iam a little bit confused of what exactly the power supply should be?
Iam about to use an switching power supply from reichelt.de instead of an toroid.

But its not clear, what is needed? Its just about 2x15V in the datasheets you get.
but what do I really need?

+15V and -15V DC ?
+15V and -15V AC ?
+15V and +15V DC ?
+15V and +15V AC ?

the GSSL needs +/-15V and +/-12V supplies. The 12's are derived from the 15's - they need to be CLEAN

extra filtering is a good idea when using switch-modes, they are nearly always noisy

if you are unsure what you are doing, you should really stick with the classic and tested version

/Jakob E.

Ok, thank you!
So maybe I should rather take a step from the idea of using a switch-mode supply ?

I build an Neumann w492 with a switch-mode supply and I always have a little noise. Maybe the switch-mode is a reason for that?

I would like to get the GSSL CRC Board, but its not longer available to buy.
Soldering is no problem, but getting the PCB is one