analog tape alignment newbie

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airtech

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 19, 2005
Messages
79
Location
Long Beach, California
Hello,

I was hoping for some help on aligning an old reel to reel machine that I bought and would like to start using. It is a model# MM1100-16 track and it came with a couple new reels of 2 inch #456 tape and, it looks like, an original Ampex alignment tape - Full Track/NAB. Since the machine did not come with any sort of manual, and I'm new to this, I need help starting out here.

Most of my recording will be rock music with live drums and the like. I have a console that I've been using with pro tools, but would like to use the tape machine now to achieve a little different sound if I can. I've read online of all the different levels (+6, +3, etc...), but am trying to figure out what it all means. I've got the alignment (and I'm not really sure what nanowebers it is), and I've got the 456 tape. but not really sure how to do a proper alignment. For example, say I wanted a +6 to tape or +4 how would I calibrate my machine running at 15ips? Also, I have the the record cards and reproduce cards. I've read a lot about the record and reproduce alignment. And what about playback alignment? Is that all inclusive?

I'm sure you all have done this a million times as I've read some of the posts at this group and I can tell that you all have been doing recordings for a while. If you could help me out here and push me in the right direction, it would be most excellent and awesome!

Scott
 
You should go here: http://recordist.com/ampex/apxlist.html and get on the Ampex mailing list. Very helpful folks there and a searchable archive as well. You, really need to get a manual. Between the manual and the Ampex archives you should be able to answer all your questions. If you can't find one on eBay or online somewhere call Wayne at Audio Village.

Steve
 
> I'm sure you all have done this a million times

Many of the gang have never touched tape.

I used to, and find that I forgot most of it.

I remember that you clean the heads and guides FIRST and OFTEN.

> rock music with live drums ... use the tape machine.. to achieve a little different sound.. I've read online of all the different levels (+6, +3, etc...), but am trying to figure out what it all means.

One thing I do remember: don't mess with tapedeck adjustments if it isn't sick. Yes, it may not be right on the factory specs and no, you really don't care.

Run some well-known CD into the deck, record with peaks touching zero VU, play back, see how it sounds. It may have a little more hiss, it may not be dead-flat, but it should sound fine. You will apply EQ to taste in the mix, so a ruler-flat response is not needed, just as long as it isn't way-out.

Now, levels: try solo drums with peaks at -5VU, 0VU, +5VU. These will play back at different levels, adjust them all to the same loudness. With the under-recorded tracks, transients will come through clean. With the over-recorded tracks, drums come back with transients squished. "Crank it up to just before it comes back bent". This depends on the tape and the meter calibration, but also on the drum style and sound, and the desired artistic effect. So try different peak levels and see what they sound like.
 
Scott-

expect to literally, align that machine every time you intend to use it. Budget about an hour or so for the procedure the first few times you do it.

Need to know what the level is on your alignment tape (it might say 180nW/m or 350nW/m etc). Must know that before you do anything. Second, you have to see if it will play, if its sticky, you'll need to buy a new one. Third, you need to get an oscillator that you can set for at the very least, 10K, 1K and 100 hz. You'll be better off if you can find an oscillator that you can sweep. Once you have all that then you can properly align the machine.

dave
 
I would shine the align and just fix the mechanical. This could include a cap job on the power supply, those tape machine power supplies work pretty hard for some reason. Must be the motors. Probably creates a lot of ripple on the caps everytime they start from scratch. So the caps can actually help your motors run better, so that transfers to mechanical.

Tape path-get the slop out of the rollers and maybe get some new rubber on the pinch roller if it has one.

Then talk to SSLKeef so he can tell you not to mess with the align, as you can be 360 degrees out of phase atn 10,000 cps and not even know you have blown it with the set screws.
 
Hi Scott,

Great score- with a little bit of care and learning, you'll soon be recording to tape with great results.

The thing to remember with tape is that it is not a "plug and play" recording system! As soundguy mentioned above, you will need to calibrate your machine often, and do other preventative maintenance such as cleaning, lubrication and demagnetization.

If you are totally new to using and handling tape, it's worth starting your learning now. Build up a folder of useful information and read it. Here's something for starters:

Ampex Basic Tape Concepts PDF 4.4MB

Unlike using a DAW, it's important that the user has a basic grasp of what's happening when you record. Tape is what I call a "dynamic" medium, inasmuch as the recorded sound varies depending on the amplitude, frequency, dynamic range and bandwidth of the sound being recorded. What you put in is rarely what you get out- which is why it is such a creative tool.

Essential equipment-

Cotton buds -for cleaning
Isopropyl alcohol -for head and tapepath cleaning. Not for use on rubber parts.
Sweepable and amplitude adjustable test oscillator- sinewave output.
Accurate audio mV meter or a decent VU meter.
The manual for the machine you're using.

Okay, looks like a big investment, but tape isn't the cheap option anymore! Compare the price of a 200GB HD to a roll of 2" GP9!!

Instead of a test oscillator, you can record sines into your DAW at 0VU levels at different frequencies. Or use the oscillator in your console. For an accurate external VU, you can use the consoles VU meters- just line up the path from a channel input to the monitor VU for 0dB gain.

Steve Albini did this great post on lining up a tape machine to get it "workable" without the manual. I can't find it on line, so here's a Word doc I made up of it:

Albini Lineup Notes

There is always a confusion in levels with tape machines. There are two important calibrations that need to be done- internal and external. The External calibration is usually done first. In a studio you need to define a standard level. This is basically so that all the equipment in the studio can be interconnected in any order without any distortion or overload. In a "traditional" studio the VU meter is used as an indicator of levels.

When the VU meter is reading "0VU", traditionally the voltage across the measured terminals is 1.23V, or "+4dBm" (0dBm is 1mW in 600R which is 0.775V- if you don't know dB values download this table, print it out, and keep looking at it until you remember the most useful numbers :wink: )

Often a tape machine is in a separate room, to keep its transport noise away from the recording area, and to keep it safe from chainsmoking engineers. Because of this you have no way of looking at the machines VU meters.

By alligning the tape machines input and output amplifiers to the same reference level as the rest of your studio equipment, when you patch the tape machines input to an output bus on your console, you know for certain that the "0VU" you see on your console bus VU will be the same 0VU on the machine. And when you go into repro, you know that the 0VU you see at the consoles channel input is the same as the tape machine is putting out. This reference level is really important, and makes sure that you are not overloading the tape machines input electronics, and converesely that you are not sending too low a signal. If the signal is too low, then the tape is not used efficiently, and your signal will have a poorer signal-to-noise ratio (i.e. the tapes inherent background noise becomes higher) Once calibrated you can switch the tape machine to monitor the input signal (essential for when doing a drop in etc) and the output signal pass through the machine and back to the console at exactly the same level, i.e. the direct path through the tape machine is 0dB!

:thumb:

Snip> Big component order just arrived- have to check it first- will continue later!

Back again...all good.

The second calibration that needs to be done is the internal calibration. Once you've defined your external operating levels, it means that you're getting a nice healthy level into the machine, and that the machines input and output electronics is working at optimum- there will be enough headroom for peaks, and noise won't be a problem.

The internal calibration is based on the record and repro amplifiers. The repro amplifier is calibrated first, and this is usually where any confusion takes place. The first thing to do is download this article from mrl: Choosing and Using Calibration Tapes PDF

Have a quick read through, but don't worry too much about the technical details yet.

Okay, there are many different tape formulations on the market, and each one has a specific optimal recording level. As the technology of tape advanced, the magnetic flux level that you could successfully record and reproduce with the tape without distortion increased. Check out the left-hand table on page 5 of the MRL document.

Have you got any documentation with the alignment tape? You need to know what its reference flux level is. This is usually written on the side of the box, or a serious sounding dude will pronounce it at the start of the tape "...this is a blah blah blah alignment tape, recorded at 355nWb/m..." etc.

The 456 tape you have will be optimal for use at 355 nWb/m reference flux level, so if your cal tape is 355nW/m then you have no trouble at all. I am a bit concerned that the cal tape you have may be a bit old- it's essential that it is in good condition, and that it isn't worn. If it is damaged, it'll be very difficult to align the machine accurately.

Okay, a bit of background about what is happening when you do a "repro alignment". Basically, when a tape is recorded, a varying magnetic field is directed at the moving tape by the record head. The magnetic particles on the tape can be thought of as millions of tiny bar magnets arranged randomly. These can be "moved" by the magnetic field from the head, and they arrange themselves to correspond with the varying field.

(this is similar to making a magnet from an iron nail- if you "stroke" a nail from end to end with a permanent magnet, after a while the nail becomes magnetic, because the permanent magnet has begun to arrange all the tiny magnets in the nail in the same direction)

Then, when you go into repro, the repro head (which is basically the same as the record head- a coil of wire on a magnetically "soft" metal former) touches the tape and the changes in magnetism are induced into the metal former and these are inductively coupled into the coil. These variations correspond to the original variations when the signal was recorded.

Now, there is only so much signal that can be recorded onto the tape before saturation takes place- i.e. all the magnetic "domains" get used up. To get a quality recording, you need to pitch your average level at such a point as to take advantage of this optimal point (see MRL doc, page 11)

A standard calibration tape allows you to set the repro head amplifier to amplify this recorded flux at the correct level, so that the following electronics can "see" enough of the low-level signal, but also so that they don't distort when a higher level comes in. It also means that a tape recorded at another studio on another machine has a good chance of playing well on your machine (as long as someone has been kind enough to write down their reference fluxivity, or supplied suitable tones at head or tail of tape :roll: )

So a cal tape has tones recorded on it at different frequencies at standard recognised flux levels. So when played back on any machine, it will always present the head with the same magnetic flux level. This is how one studio on one side of the world can send a master to one on another side of the world and still have compatability (to a point...)

Now, the reference tape has its level measured in nWb/m ("nano Webers per metre") and is a measure of the actual magnetic field. In the tape machine, we're more interested in actual signal level. So if for arguments sake you have a 355nWb/m tape, and you want to use a reel of 456 tape on a non-Dolby machine, then you would do the following (presuming you have done the "external" cal beforehand...)

1. With the machine switched off, demagnetise the heads (MRL demag PDF)

2. Clean the heads and transport thoroughly

3. Switch on, and allow the machine to stabilise for a least an hour.

4. Ensure that the machine is "safe" in all channels- i.e. none are armed for record- cal tapes are expensive :shock: . Run the tape in repro and find the 1kHz section. Play the tape, and switch any metering to "repro". Observe all the VU meters. They should all be pointing in roughly the same direction. This will be whatever they were set to last. If they look low, then the machine was obvioulsy set up to run a higher-flux tape than the cal tape you're using. If they appear high or a re "pegging", then the machine has been set to a lower level flux than the cal tape you're now running,

5. Assuming a 355nWb/m cal tape, and a 355nWb/m required operating level i.e. 456), set all the "repro level" controls to read 0VU on the channel meters. At this point you'll realise why we did the external cal first- we now know that 0VU on the machines VU's are corresponding to your studios "0VU" reference level. Go through all the channels, and get them to read 0VU

6. The machine is now playing back all channels the same level- well done! If you need to use a different reference fluxivity, and you're stuck with a "wrong" cal tape, use the table on p7 of the MRL guide, and add/subtract from the cal tape reference to find out how many dB to add/subtract to the VU level. This, I feel, is the biggest confusion in lineup.

Okay, that's the simple bit. The next bit is a bit more interesting. The process of converting the magnetic signal from the tape to an electrical signal at the output of the repro preamp is not a simple or linear process. The tape head can have level anomalies at different frequencies amongst other things, so the repro amp has an equalisation feature. This is similar to standard EQ in theory, but it is designed to enable you to get a flat (linear) response to all frequencies from the recorded tape.

So the cal tape has different frequency tones recorded at the same flux level to help you set these EQ's. The 1kHz tone is the reference mid-band level, this has allowed you to set the basic level from tape. There is an LF and HF control associated with the repro amp, and you have to run and LF tone of 50 to 100Hz to set this, and the HF level uses a 10kHz (or higher) tone. You basically run the tape again in the corresponding region (100Hz or 10k etc) and set the trimmer so that the VU meter needle is at the same spot as the 1kHz cal tone.

Okay, that's enough for now...

:grin:

Lots to read here: http://www.flash.net/~mrltapes/

Mark
 
thanks mark for all that info. I have tascam reel to reel I keep on meaning to get up and running.
(well, it runs.. the tape I had on there broke and I haven't gotten around to splicing it together) :oops:

-mike
 
Thanks for the plethura of info! So I just found out that I have a 200nano test tape. What would be a good alignment level for the 456? If it has a suggested rating of 370nano's, would I compensate by setting my vu meters to about -6 or so to get a +6 on the 456? So for instance, if I record some drums that peak at 0vu, I'm really recording them at +6 on the 456 to get a little more tape coloration/sound/saturation,etc...

Scott
 
200 nano's hmmm never head of that level. But it's close to ampex so you should be fine. In fact depending on the company there is about a 15 Nwb/m difference for the same reading at any level. what is +6 and 355 Nwb/m fro one would be 370 Nwb/m for another.
Ampex is 185 Nwm/m anyway depending on the manufacutre the Nwb/m changes slightly. In any case the recomendation for 456 is +6/185 Nw/m or 355 Nwb/m - 370 Nwb/m. Again that Level changes slightly between manufacutres. If you really into doing rock music you would be better off with GP9 aligned to the same level IMO
But to answer your question yes you would set your playback meters to read -6 from the MRL so that when you do the record alignment your actually adjusting the level to be louder so you end up hitting +6. when it is 0Vu. If you go louder then that you should be o.k, depending on how loud you go. Obviously if you go louder then 0 Vu you will get nice tape compression and eventually get distortion. but like anything how does it sound? I have done tape machine alignments before by ear and been within the ball park figures so it was o.k. I always found it hard to do a bias of -1.75 because of the .75. I always hated trying to find/guess .75 VU? so I would listen by ear and usually end up biasing by -2.0 sounded good. it's all that matters. Remember what goes in must come out. Good luck on your find. I have always loved the 16 track 2" sound.
 
please forget the idea of "tape compresion" and "tape sound" and all that other bullshit, its just that, bullshit that computer people made up to loathe or lust after depending on their position. Worry about getting good results out of your machine.

If you want to set up your deck to run 456 at +6 with a 200nW/m align tape you need to set your playback cal to -5dB on the VU meter. Bias at 15IPS and 30IPS will change, for 456 at 15 you could try between 2 and 3 dB and see what you like.

There are some basic standards for tape cal, which you are learning about but the smartest thing once you get the hang of itt is to really figure out what influences what and come up with your own cal. If you can dedicate tracks to sources there suddenly becomes less of a reason to do a standard cal the same for every track. kick drum will benefit from certain treatment, flutes will benefit from something else. All the idiots out there refer to all of it as "tape compression" and its just an ignorant way to lump things together. At any given cal, the threshold and frequency for compression will vary yet people talk about tape compression like its something that happens when you put tape on a machine. your tape compression will vary depending upon where you compensate for the head bump and every machine has a head bump at a unique frequency more or less...

Also, if you record drums at 0VU, because of the ballistics of the VU meter (nothing to do with the tape or alignment) you'll be recording your peaks much higher than that, VU meters are incredibly slow when it comes to tracking transients as fast as drums tend to be. If you record a 1K sine wave at 0VU then yes, set up as described you'll be rrecording at +6 but it you are looking at a drum kit at 0VU its actually going down hotter than that. If you listen to your recording it shoudl matter much what a meter is telling you, but thats the theory behind it.

dave
 
I got my best drum sound at +5 (around 320 nW/m) with a 185nW/m Reproduce alignment tape with 456.

Also, I over biased 3db using a 10kc tone.

BEAUTIFUL attack sound, impact and cym sheen on my Master Muncher 1000 2"/16!!!

GARY
 
Really you over biased by that much?were you running @ 15 or 30. I'll have to try that. My rule of thumb is @ 30 IPS overbias by 2 and at 15 overbias by 4. Works for me nicely. I love GP9. it's all about GP9 for rock if you ask me. And for pop 499. I am curious to see what the ATR brand will be sounding like.
 
Hi pucho...15ips

airtech..
congrats on your mm1100. The best playback and record alignment procedures instructions I've found are in and old book called..
"Modern Recording Techniques" by Robert E. Runstein from 1974. When I get a chance I'll scan It for you and send you a .pdf. BTW..you will LOVE 2"/16. To steal a line from Frank Zappa....

"You'll love it..Its a way of life"

GARY
 
hi airtech,
my friend has an ampex mm100 16 track.
they are old, but when you can get them running they sound great.
make sure your power supplies are in good working order and clean out
all the card connections if you haven't already.
michael gore at B.A.S.E. in s.f. california is a great source for old ampex machines. check out his website: http://www.analogrules.com/
there's a wealth of info on the ampex machines.
i have a mci jh-24 recorder that i love, ampex sounds better, but they
are sometimes troublesome to maintain (as all older recorders are).
make sure you have the tension arms correctly adjusted before record and playback alignment.
have fun!
 

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