Gates Tube Mixer Schematics

Hey Guys

I picked this up on Scam-bay. Definitely needs work - anyone know where to find some schematics? Model Number - M-5136

Is that a "Dynamote?" Joel Hamilton at Studio G in Brooklyn might be able to help you. I recall that he owned one that looks like yours and he was raving about it a while back.

I'll check my own collection of Gates schematics but I don't think I have that one.

Hey donnysparks

What is the Value of the Capacitor on your unit that is farthest to the left behind the tube.

on my unit the cap has deteriorated so much that I can't even read the Cap value.

Look at the second and third photo on mine.... its an orange-ish color.
I tried taking a reading of it but the reading is no use.. fluctuates all over the place...

Could you take a look when you get a chance?

no sweat. will report back soon...

ok, after squinting with my head inside the chassis and using a flashlight and some nail clippers (nearest reflective object) for 10 minutes:

25 MFD 25 WV
472904
MADE IN USA

i'm pretty sure that's what it says, although the cap is strategically placed to provide maximum value-reading pleasure.

i'd be glad to check anything else or take some readings. just let me know.

You ROCK! thats great thanks so much. If I run into any questionable components I'll ask in this thread.

Thanks again. Cheers :sam: :guinness: :green: :sam: :thumb:

they are there let me look.
Poke me if I wait too long
before I reply

The Bi-Motes that I have are M5233 ( PCB) these are the ones with the 5879's and 12AU7..

There may have also been another versions with EF86's..
The Bi-Mote was the Program Amp section of a Gatesway and or a Yard... ( with a pair of Davins , a Power supply and Enclosure)

http://vintageproaudio.com/Doc+Schematics/gatesm5233doc.jpg

As you can see this is the same PCB that is used in the Dynamote, Bimote, Yard and Gatesway...

The Yard changed from 5879 tubes to EF86 in the mid 60's I believe that I have Bimotes with that same board .. M6142..

http://vintageproaudio.com/Doc+Schematics/m6142adoc.jpg

I have collected many Program Amp sections of the Yard and the Gatesway for the very purpose of DIY building of "UniMotes"

If sharing (re-posting) my posted schematics please just acknowledge where they came from or point to my URL.

Thanks and good luck
Port

Thats exactly what I needed.. Great!!

mine has the 12UA7's and 5879's

Cool...

You could possibly add a bunch of modules and make tube summing Mixer
out of this design... Interesting....

Port, welcome to "the Lab." And thanks for all the info you've made available on the web. Over the past couple of years, I've referred several people to your scans of the Langevin "suggest wiring practices" diagram.

Yeah thanks, After looking at your site I realized I have bought quite a few odds & ends from you on ebay. Welcome!

You can easily Point to point this design.

cannikin

It is scarry when the source you forgot in the back of your head
actually posts here.

Port glad to have you here!

[quote author="adrianh"]cannikin

It is scarry when the source you forgot in the back of your head
actually posts here.
[/quote]

True... Makes the world really small.

Uhm..

adrianh Do I know you? .. or rather do you know me? :grin: :shock:

hey cannikin,
If you don't mind me asking, what did you use as a replacement for the 25 MFD 25V cap? it looks like an electrolytic to me, but there is no indication of polarity. also, what kind of caps are the black .47 and .1 MFD ones? could they be paper in oil? what would you use there? i'm showing my green-ness here...

So I'm still wondering, anyone have a suggestion on replacement of the orange cap in the pic above (C3 in port's 5233 schematic, i think). The schematic shows it as nonpolar, right? the mouser site has "nonpolar/bipolar" nichicons in the approx value, however the data sheet sites thier application as "for entertainment electronics" which seems strange to me. since the cap (25mfd 25V) isn't (i think) polarized, then could i use something other than electrolytic?

also, anyone know what kind of caps those tall skinny black ones are? those , the cans, and the one orange one are the only types of caps in the thing.

thanks in advance.

C3, the cathode bypass cap? Use any ol' 22uf or 25uF 25V 'lytic... like the Sprague Atom 25uF/25V 'lytics that the guitar amp supply places sell for use as Fender replacements. Connect the "+" end to cathode, "-" to ground.

Hey DS

Sorry I haven't gotten back to you...

For the Black .1uf and .47uf caps you could use something like an Orange drop although OD's aren't radial lead.

the Multi- Cap cans are 20-20uf (i think thats the value, it should say it right on the can) Caps. These are electrolytic Caps.

thanks for the help guys. i think i'm going to replace C3 first and see if that helps.

dave, for educational purposes, how do you know that that is the cathode bypass cap? and are cathode bypass caps generally electrolytics? the cap symbol in the schematic doesn't indicate polarity (if its a polarized cap shouldn't there be a + sign on one side?), so i assumed it was a nonpolar cap. is that common for schematics to leave that info out? i was using this site for reference:

http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/capac.htm

i guess next would be the cans (1 is 20, 20, 1 is 10, 15, 15, then there is another 20, 20 in the power supply). how do you guys treat these? do you use separate electrolytics and ditch the cans? I guess you could cut the terminals off the cans and leave them in to retain the original appearance, then find an inconspicuous location for the new caps.

cannikin, keep me posted on progress you make with your gates whenever you tackle it, if you don't mind. I'll do the same.

For the Cans the easiest thing to do is use individual electrolytic Caps.

So for the 20-20Mfd. 450V, you would use 2x 20uf 450V (probably need to get 22uf - 20uf isn't that common anymore) and connect the Negative Leads of both caps together.

Or if you want to pay the $$
You can definitely find the 20-20uf Cans Here-
http://www.surplussales.com/

Or if you want to pay bigger $$$
You can also get them the Cans Custom made.. ( can't find the website at this time).

Yeah definitely lets keep in touch.. I haven't started to rework mine, been part lazy, part broke, part busy.... You can always email me at cannikin AT mac DOT com

[quote author="cannikin"]Yeah definitely lets keep in touch.. I haven't started to rework mine, been part lazy, part broke, part busy.... You can always email me at cannikin AT mac DOT com[/quote]

cool, i'm in the same boat with several projects waiting. i'm just trying to get a mass parts order together for everything. i might just try replacing C3 and get it over with. i'll let you know what happens. thanks again for the help.