bjosephs
Well-known member
Hi all,
I know there are plenty of threads on this already but we all take a slightly different path, so here’s another.
Attached is a scribble I did (it’s drawn in two parts but ignore the gap) and I’m looking for some double checking.
I defaulted to 2k2 series resistors and a 10k audio taper “pot”. I will probably buy a nice stepped attenuator. Is there a reason I couldn’t use a larger value (say, 25k)? Mono simply ties the L/R hots and colds together using the 2k2s to mix. I wanted a DIM function that didn’t require a 4P switch so I’m going to just slap a small value across the attenuator pot to drag the level down… the taper will be weird but this seems unimportant if you just want to bring the level down to talk or give your ears a rest. The rats nest thereafter is a L/R flip followed by a cut L or R function achieved by tying hot and cold together at the output.
I may do it all point to point on the backs of toggle switches mounted to a rack blank with some XLR pig tails hanging off the back.
I know there are plenty of threads on this already but we all take a slightly different path, so here’s another.
Attached is a scribble I did (it’s drawn in two parts but ignore the gap) and I’m looking for some double checking.
I defaulted to 2k2 series resistors and a 10k audio taper “pot”. I will probably buy a nice stepped attenuator. Is there a reason I couldn’t use a larger value (say, 25k)? Mono simply ties the L/R hots and colds together using the 2k2s to mix. I wanted a DIM function that didn’t require a 4P switch so I’m going to just slap a small value across the attenuator pot to drag the level down… the taper will be weird but this seems unimportant if you just want to bring the level down to talk or give your ears a rest. The rats nest thereafter is a L/R flip followed by a cut L or R function achieved by tying hot and cold together at the output.
I may do it all point to point on the backs of toggle switches mounted to a rack blank with some XLR pig tails hanging off the back.