I understand that. I wanted to be more specific but it's obviously difficult to communicate...given the huge variations even in original units, I wouldn't worry about "most accurate" when making a clone of it..
Build it, and see if it suits you - from there you can be more specific in alterations
Thanks. Could you explain which parts to replace with this, is this the specific unit or just a brand suggestion, and what I should expect from the modification?You may need some of these:
Motorola - J309 Transistor. Type Designator: J309 Type of Transistor: JFET Type of Control Channel: N -Channel Maximum Power Dissipation (Pd): 0.625 W Maximum Drain-Source Voltage |Vds|: 25 V Maximum Gate-Source Voltage |Vgs|: 4 V Maximum Drain Current |Id|: 0.03 A Maximum Junction Temperature...www.electronicsurplus.com
In my experience, my REV A has a lot of colour. Sounds absolutely amazing, but it can be a little too much depending on what you're going for. The noise floor can be a little too high for delicate tracks. There is the orange drop mod where you make a REV D which has a noticeably lower noise floor, and swap in the orange caps from the REV A to get the distortion of the REV A with the lower noise floor of the REV D. Not sure what the final product sounds like but is worth looking into if this is what you want.I understand that. I wanted to be more specific but it's obviously difficult to communicate.
I suppose I was just hoping for a "I swapped part A out for the brand X equivalence and it made the highs less harsh and more smooth, like a C800-G compared to a WA-8000" kind of response.
I'm looking for character/color of a typical 1176 "blue stripe". Clean enough to track through without regrets but not so clean that I might as well just use a Waves/UAD2 plugin.
Every Klark Teknik unit I've ever heard, in my opinion, was a complete waste of rack-space. They're so transparent you might as well just use a plugin. They probably would've been a big deal if they'd made them in the 1970s, when everything was "dirty" and transparency was hard to come by, but they're about as sterile as "ITB" with all of the "analog" buttons switched off. Basically, KT is the Fruity Loops of hardware... in my opinion.
At the same time, I like my Ampex 601 (modded into a 1 channel multi-tube mic pre) but it's far too colorful to use on every record. I've considered a couple of ways to run it in parallel with a cleaner signal so that I could dial in the amount in post.
Most of that may not be directly relevant but I'm hoping it tells you enough about me that you guys are more able to steer me in a good direction.
Oh, and this will be used in a professional studio, where it's the only non-original device, when it's finished.
I heard a Hairball Rev A during the lockdown that sounded just about perfect. It was the only 1176-style comp I'd ever heard sound exactly as I expect a blue stripe to sound. That unit is what lead to me decide to build one. I just don't know if it was modded in anyway and I no longer have the owner of it's phone number.
lol. I think I'm trying to dance around words and over-explaining. I'll try to be simpler and more direct.There is nothing “magic” with audio gear. That word really has no meaning. People tend to get too hung up on some kind of voodoo, particularly when vintage parts are used. We have to stop following these trends and look at things in a more realistic view.
The 1176 has been discussed and built successfully by so many diyers. I think if at this point you come around here and question if it’s gonna be good as the original you shouldn’t be really considering diy. In my experience diy has never disappointed but again i don’t look for some kind of holy grail.
Build it and see if you will have a good surprise or a disappointment. If you don’t like it an 1176 has a good resell value anyway.
If you want a rev A the Hairball / mnats pcb is the only commercial option available as far as i’m aware. So i guess you should start with that and then if you feel the need you can upgrade to better quality transformers. The original utc O12 input can be sometimes found on ebay, to find an original opt is gonna be hard but i already suggested sowter and cinemag as an upgrade.
It's a hard to find part on the BOM, if your building a rev A you will need a few to select an matched pair.Thanks. Could you explain which parts to replace with this, is this the specific unit or just a brand suggestion, and what I should expect from the modification?
Thanks. This is my first build (as I'm sure is obvious). Cory (our tech guy) usually does all this kind of stuff but I decided to do this assuming Cory was gonna stand behind me until I get the hang of it but Cory isn't here, Cory isn't answering his phone, and Cory isn't fire-able so Cory is a dick lol.best to measure each resistor with multimeter, and check with schematic, before soldering