Anyone built the Beesneez DIY C12 Clone Microphone Body Kit?

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
@RuudNL - both terminate in the same place - just saying I didn't miss that.

So - up and running! After hitting 4 hardware stores to find an M1.6 machine screw just a little longer than I had, we have a working microphone! Sounds just super good. Posting a photo of General Threaded Products Co because places like this are awesome and didn't know they existed.

What I wanted out of this project was to have a totally historically accurate c12 (as much as can be) vs pretty close.

Mic #1 (other mic) - matachung build with -1v bias voltage, beesneez ck12 capsule, haufe T14/1, NOS 5-star 6072a from 1962.
Mic #2 (this mic) - Beesneez producer PSU, Dachman DA-CK12 capsule, Cinemag CM 13114, and the 12AT7 shipped with the kit.

It's hard to tell the difference between the two on A/B in omni and cardioid. Mic #1 takes the lead there by a hair. Figure 8 is Mic #1 all the way. Could all be just because the BN capsule is just better!

@lightningbefore - I'm through the other side now. Had grand ambitions of doing a step-by-step build guide but I was figuring it out as I went along and had many, many backsteps - fell apart quickly!

I can say:
- The backplates need to run to that resistor leg that's just sort of hanging out there. Then hook up the 392 cap and the opposing leg goes to pin 2 of the tube.
- My pinout for the 7pin XLR earlier is wrong (I think). My phase is inversed, but I also didn't use the supplied xformer so blue/red may be different.

Am here as you build brother!!!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0640.jpg
    IMG_0640.jpg
    237.9 KB · Views: 19
Thanks @johnsonic!! Glad you came to the end of these builds and have two great sounding mics! I'm going to work through mine this week, your pointers are really helpful. I'll see if I have it in me still to try a step-by-step, but I may be too excited get it built up and running as well.

Few random questions for ya:
- Which output resistor did you go with? Got a nice lil grab bag of extra parts in the shipment and now need to choose (I'll measure them later, just curious which you went with)
- What other components did you change for the 6072a nos vs. 12AT7? I know you have two different mics and it's just the BN for me for now, but I just got a 6072 as well that I'm pumped to audition.
- Do you think the screw did not make continuity for you b/c you used the Dachman capsule in your BN build's saddle?
- I'm also going with a different transformer and will try the 13:1 toroid so I'm hoping I get my wiring right too...

In the meantime, happy recording :)
 
HELLO!

Few random questions for ya:
- Which output resistor did you go with? Got a nice lil grab bag of extra parts in the shipment and now need to choose (I'll measure them later, just curious which you went with)
Just went with the one that was shown in the photo. The resistance is so high that my meter was unable to measure the ones sent. I didn't solder from pin 2 to 9, just soldered from 2 to the frame since they both ground.
- What other components did you change for the 6072a nos vs. 12AT7? I know you have two different mics and it's just the BN for me for now, but I just got a 6072 as well that I'm pumped to audition.
New to this as well, but I think the 6072 would require you to supply -1v to the grid, which the BN power supply doesn't allow you to do (pins 4 & 7 = ground and they're bridged within the PSU.
- Do you think the screw did not make continuity for you b/c you used the Dachman capsule in your BN build's saddle?
I'm probably a disaster and lost a long screw. I used the saddle I got with the Dachman capsule. Screw size is M1.6 if anyone needs to find in future.
- I'm also going with a different transformer and will try the 13:1 toroid so I'm hoping I get my wiring right too...
Just check it against a known correct phase mic with the capsules the same distance from the sound source & flip phase back & forth. If you're wrong, just reverse the connections on one side of the xformer.

ALSO - I was tempted to use the torroidal as well but my strategy wouldn't fit (bolt going through through the xformer hole with a washer on either end). The washer was just a tiny bit too thick. Test fit before you commit! Also - I found that when mounting without insulation the output suffered. You can measure by using your DAW to output a 1khz sine test tone, gain adjusted to output 1v AC as measured on your multimeter. Measure between pins 2 & 3 on XLR or tip & ring for TRS. Then connect the output to the high impedance side of the transformer. By measuring the AC output at the low impedance side, you should be able to divide 1v by the output voltage and wind up reasonably close to 13. Measure again after mounting just be be sure!

I'm so new at this everything I wrote is mostly hypothesis, so take with a grain of salt!
Happy building!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top