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Good advice from the other responders. I'd add that I'd up the value by 20-30% or a bit more for lower values like 10uF. I've found that Panasonics usually measure closer to the rated value, but not always. Backing up, the most common tolerance is +/- 20%. Nichicon caps are almost always 15-20% low--cheaper to make! This is especially true on larger values, like 1000uF, and higher voltages. Since these are not precision parts to begin with, and a decent designer takes this into account, I have found that a higher value than the stock is never a problem--unless it is in a timing circuit, where an electrolytic is mostly the wrong type of cap to use. In a low cost device like the Focusrite, the penny-pinchers also get into the act and insist on cheaper brands of components that often have worse specs and uncertain tolerances.
Good advice from the other responders. I'd add that I'd up the value by 20-30% or a bit more for lower values like 10uF. I've found that Panasonics usually measure closer to the rated value, but not always. Backing up, the most common tolerance is +/- 20%. Nichicon caps are almost always 15-20% low--cheaper to make! This is especially true on larger values, like 1000uF, and higher voltages.
Since these are not precision parts to begin with, and a decent designer takes this into account, I have found that a higher value than the stock is never a problem--unless it is in a timing circuit, where an electrolytic is mostly the wrong type of cap to use. In a low cost device like the Focusrite, the penny-pinchers also get into the act and insist on cheaper brands of components that often have worse specs and uncertain tolerances.
