DB25 - Any recommendations for shells

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Electrobumps

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Aug 12, 2008
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282
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My gear is all hooked up on DB25's. Some looms are made by me and some are budget Hosa type and some are the even cheaper D'Addario.

I've just extended my DAW from 16 I/o to 32 I/o and added more outboard. I need to make or buy more DB25's

Weighing up buying more non serviceable HOSA looms VS time, cost and quality of making own. Generally I find there is not huge cost savings in making your own looms and a huge time investment, but I do have Van Damme multicore cable to hand.

I purchased a load of Ampenol cheapish plastic metallised shells years ago. While they do the Job, the cable entrance is quite tight for audio cable and they are screw type rather than thumb screws which I prefer.

Any recommendations on good quality budget friendly DSUB shells and crimp pins?
 
My gear is all hooked up on DB25's. Some looms are made by me and some are budget Hosa type and some are the even cheaper D'Addario.

I've just extended my DAW from 16 I/o to 32 I/o and added more outboard. I need to make or buy more DB25's

Weighing up buying more non serviceable HOSA looms VS time, cost and quality of making own. Generally I find there is not huge cost savings in making your own looms and a huge time investment, but I do have Van Damme multicore cable to hand.

I purchased a load of Ampenol cheapish plastic metallised shells years ago. While they do the Job, the cable entrance is quite tight for audio cable and they are screw type rather than thumb screws which I prefer.

Any recommendations on good quality budget friendly DSUB shells and crimp pins?
CPC unfortunately all out of stock

https://cpc.farnell.com/amp-te-connectivity/66506-9/crimp-pin-gold-24-20awg/dp/CN15702
https://cpc.farnell.com/mh-connectors/mhdtzk9-k/dsub-hood-nickel-top-entry-9way/dp/CN16750
https://cpc.farnell.com/ossi/dtzt25-k/ossi-die-cast-d-hood/dp/CNDTZK25K
RS

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/d-sub-contacts/0237211
Backshells at RS are quite expensive.
 
Thanks Rob much appreciated. They look like what I needs cable entries are a good size too. I'm in the USA now and things were looking very expensive on mouser......Or I was filtering incorrectly, sometimes the filters work against you on that site!

I can still get stuff shipped to a UK address if I can't source similar out here.
 
Came here to say +1 redco as well. From what I remember when I wiring up my patchbay, the cheapo shells I got on amazon didn't have much in the way of a collar to grip the cable. Got some redco shells and haven't looked back.
 
I got Redco to make me a 48ch loom for my summing mixer. It's a beast and I think it was money well spent. Much tidier than six individual ones...

Premade widely available looms are great value though. I got a bunch of Planet Waves ones, very cheap and cool breakout options for the end. "Modular" cables.

P.S.: Redco has great db25 shells aswell, really sturdy pins and roomy shell for cabling.
 
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another +1 for Redco. Very robust, easy to work with. If you have to change the wiring at some point, (from Yamaha format, say to Mackie format or whatever,) just get new pins, and use the same shell. Will outlast you.
 
The plastic metalized ones are easily modified with a step bit to as large as the shell inside dimension (which is pretty much the same on all of them) and if you drill it out to just under the cable O. D. you get as good a grip as any other method.
These can be obtained for a fraction of the cost of metal hoods (which offer no advantage, and can actually make things more difficult, such as removing a cable from a big mess of wires).
Why does every rack in a studio turn into a rat's nest the day after one installs it?
This is also why I never use "thumb screws" as they are particularly likely to catch on other cables. Try pulling one of those out of a cable trough... arrgh
The last batch I got off Amazon had the biggest improvement since the connector was developed, phillips drive securing screws! Whoever implemented slot drive screws on these should be near to top of the wall of shame. Too bad they did not do the logical thing and implement socket headed hex screws!
Of course, this was never meant to be an audio connector, but we are stuck with it now, and having to remove or install one in a patchbay system with a dozen fully loaded bays through the back of a rack is one of life's supreme challenges.
 
Why does every rack in a studio turn into a rat's nest the day after one installs it?

So true you. No matter how hard I try. It always ends up the same way.
Of course, this was never meant to be an audio connector, but we are stuck with it now, and having to remove or install one in a patchbay system with a dozen fully loaded bays through the back of a rack is one of life's supreme challenges.
DSUBS never seem that solid to me. I used to work at a studio where all looms were wired to Hartings. The connectors were originally designed for use in tanks. They are amazing but cost a small fortune.
 

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