Design for 600R Bridged-T Pad Attenuator 24 Step Rotary Switch!

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I've done something wrong then. Hopefully a mis wire. I get signal at first position. Thinking something to do with the cold leg going straight through... need to look...
The drawing is misleading. The top wire goes only to the wiper, not on the last position.
tbh, seems that completely off would mean an abrupt jump in level when going to next position...
That's how many attenuators go, emulating potentiometers.
 
In the "off" position, is there supposed to be audio coming through?
No there isn't. It's shunted fully to ground. There may be leakage that's audible as very low level audio though, depending on wiring and layout.
 
It's shunted fully to ground
So my drawing with hot and cold isn't correct? I am using it with balanced in/out...... I should tie ground to cold?(this seems to work) but at least one of my converters needs to be set up internally or I use special cables( disconnecting cold) if using it like this I think. Would like to avoid that. Need to look into it.
Unless I'm not understanding which it feels like...
 

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Ground if it’s tied to ground, cold if it isn’t. They get used both ways. I didn’t note you had separate ground shown.
 
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So my drawing with hot and cold isn't correct? I am using it with balanced in/out...... I should tie ground to cold?(this seems to work) but at least one of my converters needs to be set up internally or I use special cables( disconnecting cold) if using it like this I think. Would like to avoid that. Need to look into it.
Unless I'm not understanding which it feels like...
I am trying to convince people not to call the third leg of a balanced connection "ground" because it isn't. The signal in a balanced connection exists only between the hot and the cold. The third pin does not carry signal. It is meant to act as a screen. It may well be connected to "ground" or "chassis" at one or both ends but its function is to screen the connection, no more no less.

Cheers

Ian
 
Ground if it’s tied to ground, cold if it works isn’t. They get used both ways.
I had to tie the screen to the box/chassis the switch is in because of noise. If I use the hot and cold pins as in the drawing, the switch works but I don't get silence at off. If I tie the cold to the chassis as well , the switch works with silence at off but, doesn't this unbalance this chain and some units that want pin 3 left unconnected if using unbalanced need to be considered? I still need to look at the wiring more for errors but, if it has to be shunted to ground in order to have silence at off,how does this happen without tying cold to ground? I know it'll click for me, just lost atm...

I know it takes a 3 pole switch to use for true balanced but, I was under the assumption I could use a 2 pole with balanced with no worries about anything.
 
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If I use the hot and cold pins as in the drawing, the switch works but I don't get silence at off. If I tie the cold to the chassis as well , the switch works with silence at off but, doesn't this unbalance this chain and some units that want pin 3 left unconnected if using unbalanced need to be considered?
Seems to indicate the CMRR of the receiver is too small.
 
Pretty sure I've checked all my wiring.... I'm guessing the wipers are always connected to position 1 on deck 1 and 23 on deck 2? I just jumped the cold pins (3) input/output and they're tied to position 1 on deck 2. Pretty sure my drawing is right?

Don't understand how I could get complete silence unless grounding the cold pin? I guess I need to measure all the steps anyway to see what is going on in reality anyway. Sounds fine. 1dB steps are pretty small... 2dB would've been better for more attenuation.
 

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Is this a valid way of checking the bridged T?

( can't get video to post for some reason so added a screenshot)

Is he just putting a load resistor (I used 2.5k) across hot and cold on the outputs and putting the meter across hot and cold on the input?

Is the meter showing what the switch impedance looks like to the source feeding it?

Could you just hook up the equipment as well? Like plug an amp into the switch outputs and read the input of the switch and see what it looks like? What about plugging in the source and load equipment and taking measurements? Any usefulness there?

I'm getting 2.5k across all the steps btw when testing like I mentioned above but not sure if that means anything.
 

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a bridged T is meant to be used in a matched impedance signal distribution situation, and built for the specific impedance's involved. In the old days of matched distribution systems, 600 ohms was the most common impedance (although 150 ohms was also used commonly), hence 600 bridged T attenuators were common (ie Daven)

If you design to a different load and source value, as you have done, then you use that, ie 2.5K, as your load termination value. Assuming you have a bridging load, nominally greater than 10kohms. Although as Abbey has mentioned, you generally want greater than 10X the term resistance to qualify as a bridging load(25K here). This is because what you want in reality is the parallel load impedance of the term resistor and the input impedance of the following equipment to be the desired load impedance (2.5K) AND the output impedance of the driving equipment to be the desired impedance, (2.5K, generally using a build out resistor)

The bridged T will work fine without meeting these conditions, but as has been mentioned before, the step values will not be as calculated nor will the load value be constant. But they will not vary much and the errors are commonly ignored. You will still have repeatable and matching step response.

Cheers

ps
the errors are at the top of the range, if the attenuator is commonly used in the middle or below of the range the errors are small.
 
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Thanks. So if I load the output with another value, say 20k, what does the reading at the input mean if anything?
I'd like to learn about the interactions and get some useful information when using the bridged t with different impedances.
If you load it with a value higher than 600 ohms all bets are off although looking into the input it will still be close to 600 a lot of the time. It should never be less than 600 but may be greater than it.

Cheers

Ian
 
what do you want this attenuator to do?
what problems do you want it to solve?
when you have the specific answers that can help you decide what parts of the design are important.
A bridged T gives you constant input and output impedances, if implemented with designed source and termination resistances it will give expected step attenuation responses.
Deviations at the high attenuation end of the range are more from capacitance leakage than design or termination errors.
 
I'm not sure.
I wanted an attenuator obviously and read a few people like to use 2.5k bridged t in their chains. I will admit there wasn't any clear elaboration past that so it would be nice to have an idea of where it would be most useful.

Just as a monitor control from a dac to amp, with a split to a crossover as well.,..so guessing 75r source , 10k load .......it's working very nice apart from no significant total attenuation or silence.

Just trying to learn a bit more how it reacts connected to different things and knew it wasn't the best choice for that application above. Just curious how others may be using it. Are they terminating the load and using build out resistors? Or using it another way.... stuff like that... I know Paul Gold had a special one made but I'm assuming others just use it the way it is but idk....
The thing about a bridged T is that with the designed source and load, it presents a constant load to the source and and a constant source to the load. if you do not need that particular property then there is really no reason to use it.

if, as it appears, you are feeding from a low source impedance and driving a much higher impedance load then you might as well use a simple balanced PI attenuator. The attached schematic is for a limited range trimer control but the principle can be extended to any number of switch positions.

Cheers

Ian
 

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