DIY power conditioner kit?

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Golgoth

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2015
Messages
321
Location
Paris, France
Hi everyone,

I need something in the vein of the Furman P-1400 AR E, but it seems a little overpriced at 2000€?


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Any good 1U 19" power conditioner kits out there?
 
Is that whe
I'm getting pops into the guitar amp and synths when I turn something on or off
Is that when you turn anything, or a lot of things on/off - low powerish stuff . Or is it related to higher power stuff that has motors / pumps etc eg refrigerators, air con', fans ?
 
Is that whe

Is that when you turn anything, or a lot of things on/off - low powerish stuff . Or is it related to higher power stuff that has motors / pumps etc eg refrigerators, air con', fans ?
Indeed, the kitchen refrigerator is definitely the biggest problem in the house. I have tried every power outlet in the house for my current Furman PL-PLUS CE that is feeding most pieces of gear, but when the refrigerator goes off the pop it gives to my old tube amp does not sound healthy at all... Also messes up recordings as it can be heard in the synths and outboard.
 
Indeed, the kitchen refrigerator is definitely the biggest problem in the house. I have tried every power outlet in the house for my current Furman PL-PLUS CE that is feeding most pieces of gear, but when the refrigerator goes off the pop it gives to my old tube amp does not sound healthy at all... Also messes up recordings as it can be heard in the synths and outboard.

Is the refrigerator on the same ring or radial circuit as the audio kit ?
 
Yes. Normally it has to be fitted as close to the source of noise as possible. However, you may be able to fit it inside the plug and give it a try.
 
I have the same problem with the old fridge in my flat. Would it make sense to buy a few different values and see what works best?
I bet there's a way to calculate it, though... I might even have the relevant R and C somewhere in the vicinity of the solder station...
 
Yes. Normally it has to be fitted as close to the source of noise as possible. However, you may be able to fit it inside the plug and give it a try.
That would be resistor side on the hot wire and capacitor side on the neutral correct?
I might try to fit that directly to the Furman power strip.

Which values would be fit for my french electrical installation? 0.25uF 250V 22 Ohms? 0.25uF 250V 100 Ohms?
 
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Actually what is needed is a Arc Suppressor/Snubber Network at the offending appliance.
https://www.mouser.com/new/cornell-dubilier/CDE-Quencharc-snubber-networks/But they can be a real challenge to install.
This type of suppressor needs to be installed across the switch, which is actually driven by the thermostat in the fridge. It may require dismantling a significant part of the fridge. Even then, I'm not convinced it would solve the problem. I believe a direct line from the access panel would be more efficient.
 
Have you ruled out any problem with the electrical installation itself? like poor ground

Wouldnt a snubber be connected across the relay that switches the compressor on/off ?

If you can find an encapsulated EMI filter block , fitting that to the fridge chassis might help.
A washing machine is usually a good source for these .

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That would be resistor side on the hot wire and capacitor side on the neutral correct?
I might try to fit that directly to the Furman power strip.
No, you will need to fit it to the fridge plug. Ideally across the switch/relay contacts but as abbey mentioned this would require quite a bit of work. So, your next call is at the plug.
Which values would be fit for my french electrical installation? 0.25uF 250V 22 Ohms? 0.25uF 250V 100 Ohms?
Also to respond to disco volante's question, to calculate the exact value, you need some other information that will be difficult to obtain. Even then you'll end up using one of the handful of values available off-the-shelf. So, your best option is trial and error.
 
The supressor doesnt get wired 'across' the mains in the first place , its permanently in place across the relay contacts that control the compressor , I fail to see how it can be wired into a plug , theres a fundamental missunderstanding going on here
 
There is a simple way to fix it, if you're willing to modify the fridge.

Just replace the motor relay with a null crossing solid state one. Maybe add a bit of noise suppression where it's needed, while you're in there.

You just might find a broken spark suppressor resistor over that relay. Makes matters even worse.

I applied this fix to a fridge in one of our dressing rooms. Not only was it noticeable on the audio when it switched, it also drove the talent crazy when it ran if they were listening on the intercom, that wasn't very loud.
 
The supressor doesnt get wired 'across' the mains in the first place , its permanently in place across the relay contacts that control the compressor , I fail to see how it can be wired into a plug , theres a fundamental missunderstanding going on here
Yes, it is mentioned in multiple occasions that the ideal place is across the relay contacts. But as a second best
I do not see the problem of wiring it between live and neutral to clamp transient, provided that there is a space in the plug. Of course it may or may not work.
 
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