Drilling faceplates?

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

braeden

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 1, 2010
Messages
198
Location
Sydney, Australia
How do you go about drilling your faceplate/backplate for XLR's etc.?
I understand that one method is to drill holes until you can push the metal through but is there any other alternative that is cheap (e.g. getting someone to drill it for you?)

Any feedback would be appreciated!

Thanks
 
Thanks for that!
I think I'll try and find a punch, does it go by a more specific name?

I'm pretty sure I've destroyed the backplate of my rack enclosure already :-\

Thanks for your replies once again
 
For xlrs you want this

http://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-730BB-15-16-Standard-Knockout/dp/B002NQX038

there are other brands around for slightly less...but the greenlee's are great.
 
Thanks, I should have Google'd before I wrote that last post. I managed to find a few places that I can get them from for a decent price.

Cheers
 
"Q-Max" punches are cheaper and ok. Make sure u keep them oiled.

But if you have a drill press i prefer a big step drill bit.
Like one of these:
http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Equipment/Step-Drill-4-22mm-301431
(squirt a little WD40 on while drilling helps alot.)
 
In the US, Amazon has a lot of step drill bits. Just got one yesterday, in fact!

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Titanium-Step-Drill-Bit/dp/B000FZ2UOY/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1317135404&sr=1-1
 
pucho812 said:
step bits also known as uni bits are better then a punch in my opinion.Mainly because they tend to have more options for sizes

I second this motion.... I bought a carbide set on ebay, 30$ shipped us, and it was the best 30$ spent. Just go slow as the metal heats up and can warp..
 
pucho812 said:
step bits also known as uni bits are better then a punch in my opinion.Mainly because they tend to have more options for sizes
I also use unibits, they also leave with a nice not sharp edge too, just make a good pilot hole before using them.
 
Both step bits and punches are good - but also make sure you have a small set of needle files for cutting out awkward shapes once your round hole is made in the metal  ( eg for the keyhole shaped XLR sockets )

with care you can get a very neat aperture cut using punches or step drills and needle files afterwards.

Rgds
PeteC
 
stepped drills it is and do yourself a favour, buy a (second hand) drill press. Watch out if you go for a drill press. Some of them have a tendency to steer a bit out of centre at the lowest position. Watch for that when you buy it, or if that is not possible, make sure you never have to press the drill head all the way down. An lubricate while drilling. To avoid scraps of the metal scratching the surface, I stick some cheap foil on top before drilling. Like that, drilling the metal work is fun, easy and very rewarding! 
 
most important measure 2 times before you commit and drill. a drill press does wonders. If you can't afford a press, a drill guide is an inexpensive alternative. also if you drill by hand, start off at the slowest speed possible otherwise your drill may walk on you and you end up off from where you need the hole
 
PeteC said:
Both step bits and punches are good - but also make sure you have a small set of needle files for cutting out awkward shapes once your round hole is made in the metal  ( eg for the keyhole shaped XLR sockets )

with care you can get a very neat aperture cut using punches or step drills and needle files afterwards.

Rgds
PeteC

Great idea. I have stepped bits and a drill press, but cutting the keyholes has been a stumbling block for me. I've used a dremel for them, but it hasn't been pretty.
 
I bought a q-max punch for xlr's...works great and pretty cheap too(about £7). Just needs 10mm hole. The main thing, is to slowly work up in size when drilling your holes if you want great results. i recently did my g9 front panel by hand with a battery drill. Put masking tape on first, used odd leg calipers to gently scribe parallel lines on this, measure/mark hole centers, center punch, then worked up in drill size - no more than about 2mm at a time. Set of drill bits 1 - 13 mm should cover pretty much everything. Step drills are good, but you obviously have to be carefull you dont overshoot if you're not using a drill stand. Any other large holes, then i just buy a hole saw...say for vu meters etc.
 
For really accurate hand drilling ( using a drill press ) I find its really best to work up in 0.5mm drill sizes.  This can be a bit time consuming but you get very accurate hole placement doing it this way - essential say if you want drill a neat and attractive set of circular ventilation holes around a tube socket for example.

I've used this approach many times and get very accurate placement - but as others have said marking out carefully and using an accurate center-punch before drilling is very important.

I've also found that its best to clamp the workpiece if your using step bits as the work can move if you dont - and the hole edges can get messy/ovoid if your not careful.  Clamping work help make an accurate hole !  sometimes we get a bit impatient to get the metalwork done so we can get to the sound !!!!! a constant pressure !

Rgds
PeteC
 
Agreed, center punch is essential, as is clamping and a gentle hand.

What about mounting the xlrs on the inside of the case as opposed to the outside to avoid cutting keyholes, as I've noticed in a few of the gallery postings here? What do you guys find yourselves doing most, and what are the pros/cons?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top