DRIP ELECTRONICS - OPTO SEVEN

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igrecji

Active member
Joined
Dec 14, 2010
Messages
38
Location
Paris
Hi all,

Long time  I'm not coming here, happy to come back again.

Just to talk about DRIP OPTO SEVEN compressor, if some of you as already build it...

Here is some pictures:

OPTO SEVEN (STEREO VERSION LA-2A):

0523ca_7d46a436532d4b7595ab5b0a0ebc4e24~mv2.jpg


INSIDE:

0523ca_817841c5de0f412fa322d61f965159dc~mv2.jpg



OPTO SEVEN - MONO VERSION - ( I've asking Gregory to buy some PSU to split stereo board and build LA-2A mastering style...)


0523ca_d6c06a0dcdd1458fbda707fb8b7be1bb~mv2.jpg


0523ca_8e08cfd82f194b06bf56aba14c04664d~mv2.jpg


0523ca_6358eb9921b646fa813aa9977b3034d6~mv2.jpg



I already buy to a friend a long time ago a FAIRCHILD 670 DRIP Version 1, and I'm finishing the build only now, but it looks good...


0523ca_fa94adbfb0b94557a3b28c585c502228~mv2.jpg


The T-Bar replacement for the 8 x 6386 to 16 x 6BA6

0523ca_fa852a3dcb754eaba075d5d78db8537d~mv2.jpg


0523ca_5d8ca415890c47d79af76cd7b11b3f71~mv2.jpg



0523ca_0d5b078da88342e79b21cc005475e4ff~mv2.jpg


The rotary switch for Dual / Lateral Vertical mode, note the most easy part to build...

0523ca_eb8350470e4346c08ebdef3269b3f1c6~mv2.jpg
 

Dannydedos

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2019
Messages
11
Hi guys. Im new to the forum and just started my drip opto 7. obviously in already have some questions for some of you salty guys one here. Im just now getting my parts together. Got my shopping cart on Digi-Key ready. Thing is though some of these resistors are either discontinued or have to be ordered in bulk. I think I found a way around it but I don't want to screw it up. For example the parts list calls for a 470K res 1/2W 5%,
but the brand that comes up on the instructions is ohmite. That one is not available for 5 months?! lol. Can I use any other through hole resistor as long as the specs are the same even if its a different brand? also does the composition of the said resistor have to be identical to the one in the opto 7 guide? Sorry if this is a stupid question. If I can use other brands than im good other than the fact that I can't find the gray hill rotary switch anywhere...Anyone here know what other rotary switches I can use besides the gray hill? I believe it calls for 4 rotary switches 2-6 pos 250MA 115V. im assuming that this is for the input and reduction knobs. Anyone know which other ones I can use besides the gray hills? I can't start this build till find these switches lol Thanks
 

Deatronix

New member
Joined
Jun 22, 2018
Messages
1
I am in the same boat as you.  I just ordered most of the parts.  Let me know if you find the parts and I will do the same.
 

Vientos00

Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2019
Messages
14
Im almost done building this Dual opto 7. Just waiting on a few extra parts. Anyone else notice that the circuit boards itself for the psu is different from the manual?
There are 2 spots for fuse boxes on the boars that are not in the manual. Also where the "no choke" holes were, there's now a 470k bleed there And a "jump" hole. Anyone else see this AMD or figure this out? Already emailed gregory a few times but no answer. I know hes busy but i dont think I should add anything else on there till I figure this out.
 

JMan

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 26, 2019
Messages
312
Location
Chicago
Vientos00 said:
Im almost done building this Dual opto 7. Just waiting on a few extra parts. Anyone else notice that the circuit boards itself for the psu is different from the manual?
There are 2 spots for fuse boxes on the boars that are not in the manual. Also where the "no choke" holes were, there's now a 470k bleed there And a "jump" hole. Anyone else see this AMD or figure this out? Already emailed gregory a few times but no answer. I know hes busy but i dont think I should add anything else on there till I figure this out.

I think he updated the PSU board not too long ago, so you likely have one of the new ones.  Try checking the OneHub folders where he uploads docs, I know he has put a few new things up recently relating to this on the Dual-STA, so there might be some other new useful docs floating around in there.
 

Dannydedos

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2019
Messages
11
Yeah I noticed that on The STA level and I think on the 73 comp the power supply is different. But I bought the Dual opto 7 board and on the hub folder for the dual opto 7 there are no updates. Do you mean to say that the update in the STA and the 73 comp both pertain to the Dual Opto? Thats SO confusing lol. You would think that if there was a change to a product than that change or update would be in the product folder that it pertains to. Im not dumping on Greg. He's very talented and I know that he is super busy. Its just really really confusing lol. That would be like if I bought a sure sm57 but the power supply for all the SM line were updated,but only customers with the sm58 had gotten the updated manual and the people with the 57's were just left guessing wondering why their mics don't work lol. I know dynamic mics don't have power supplys but its just an example.My point is that in my documentation for the board that I ordered, there is no update so I'm left wondering... do I just do what the updates call for on the other models...or do I just do the best that I can with my documentation. OR is the Dual OPTO 7 power supply different from the STA level. Im just a bit confused here lol
 

JMan

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Joined
Oct 26, 2019
Messages
312
Location
Chicago
Danny, all the newer Drip designs use Gregory’s universal PSU.  That PSU has some built in “options” to make it flexible, and the main difference that I am aware of between the STA and the Opto is that he recommends the use of the solid state rectifier option for the STA, while it is either/or for the Opto (mind you, I haven’t looked closely at the Opto).  But it is the exact same board. I would think that any info on the PSU itself should be useful for any build that uses it, save for where it pertains to an option that you aren’t using — e.g. info on the tube rectifier when you are using solid state, etc.

A note about these docs being uploaded only in the STA folder: while it *may* be that these are specific to the implementation in that build, it merits looking at.  Gregory isn’t the most organized person, it seems (not to speak ill, just a skill set that he doesn’t appear to have), and so just because he didn’t upload something to every build folder doesn’t mean that it isn’t useful — but it does mean that you’ll have to figure out whether it pertains to your project or not.  Good luck!
 

Vientos00

Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2019
Messages
14
I actually got a chance to chat w him online yesterday. I help my father in law run his all business and its not easy. Greg is a good guy and he really tries. He was able to tell me that the AOT resistors on mine are 1K. Once I looked at both manuals I was able to make an educated guess on how to go about this power supply. I sent greg a pic. Of my power supply w one last question. Maybe someone here can help me out. I did mine with the diodes instead of the tube. The manual on the STA says that doing this helps w heat issues. My questions is that if I do it this way w diodes instead of recitifier tube, do I still unpopulate the small square space above the AOT resistors? The STA level info says to do so. Basically removing the heatsinks and other resistors above the AOT resistors. Im just not sure if thats what im supposed to do with my Dual Opto 7.
 

JP Audet

Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2018
Messages
8
Hello everyone!

I've built two opto 7 a couple of year ago. Tough I could share some info. I'll also copy/paste some info I got from Greg and Amanda.


Link switch :

Basically the link switch will turn the unit to stereo instead of dual mono. With the link switch "On", the compressor applies gain reduction equally on Left and Right channel (stereo compression). Useful for stereo bus application. You can trim each channel with the internal trimmer labeled "stereo adjust" on both sides of the PCB to get the meter and the compression to be even. Note you'll have to turn both Reduction knobs (front panel) equally on both sides to get the compressor to react properly. You must feed a 1k stereo tone trough the unit, set the link switch "on", turn the reduction knob so you have a fair amount of compression (15 or 20 db on both meters) and mess around with the stereo adjust to match both sides.

To get the link switch to work properly, use two 18 gauge wires and solder em directly to the center hole of the SMA footprint on the main PCB (center is hot, 4 external holes are ground). Both wires must be attached at each end of the front panel SPST toggle switch.

From Amanda :

When the switch is turned on, it will link them. When it’s turned off, it won’t link them. It’s single pull single throw.

From Greg :

link is simply a spst switch that connect the LINK of both units - i would use a bnc socket on the back of the case to connect these - the link swith will connect them - i will write a white paper on it this week .

as with the response pot and the stereo adjust just use them as indicated in the original la2a manual (1968)

i added the smas so in the future you could use response to create a hipass filter on the front panel - thats actually what the "response control" does  - stereo adj on the other hand just makes it so you can align to units when linked in compression ,  also coverered in the 1968 original manual and the urei manual .


PSU :

See photo (sorry it's the only one I could find)

The fuses are additional protection to prevent damage to the external power supply. I have the older version of the PSU and never had a problem not using em.

Follow the instruction provided on the Opto 7 manual to get the recommended resistance values on the "high voltage regulator" section (Left section of the PSU). There's some indications on the PSU PCB (Top left) for which value you must use for "adj1/adj2" both spots. You can otherwise install a 1 meg trimmer and take the numbers with a multimeter and use the appropriate resistor accordingly.

Don't refer to the STA level PSU Erratum as the STA level PCB has it's own regulator implemented on each sides (L/R) of the main PCB. Greg modified the STA Level PSU to avoid overheating generated by too much power. The Opto doesn't need as much power (275vdc vs 300 for STA level).

Hope it helps!

JP



 

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Dannydedos

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2019
Messages
11
That did help a bit. just one question..The area below those adjustment resistors that you were talking about... (Heatsinks)(5k trimmer), Did you still populate that area? Mind you I'm using the diodes option and not the tube rectifier.
 

Vientos00

Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2019
Messages
14
Actually everyone great news! Greg just updated the Dual opto 7 and added news notes based on all of those questions. Turns out that area above the AOT resistors (heatsinks/diodes) can be unpopulated just like the STA level. Here's a link to the new notes!
https://ws.onehub.com/files/m1idcrsq
 

Dannydedos

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2019
Messages
11
igrecji said:
Hi all,

Long time  I'm not coming here, happy to come back again.

Just to talk about DRIP OPTO SEVEN compressor, if some of you as already build it...

Here is some pictures:

OPTO SEVEN (STEREO VERSION LA-2A):

0523ca_7d46a436532d4b7595ab5b0a0ebc4e24~mv2.jpg


INSIDE:

0523ca_817841c5de0f412fa322d61f965159dc~mv2.jpg



OPTO SEVEN - MONO VERSION - ( I've asking Gregory to buy some PSU to split stereo board and build LA-2A mastering style...)


0523ca_d6c06a0dcdd1458fbda707fb8b7be1bb~mv2.jpg


0523ca_8e08cfd82f194b06bf56aba14c04664d~mv2.jpg


0523ca_6358eb9921b646fa813aa9977b3034d6~mv2.jpg



I already buy to a friend a long time ago a FAIRCHILD 670 DRIP Version 1, and I'm finishing the build only now, but it looks good...


0523ca_fa94adbfb0b94557a3b28c585c502228~mv2.jpg


The T-Bar replacement for the 8 x 6386 to 16 x 6BA6

0523ca_fa852a3dcb754eaba075d5d78db8537d~mv2.jpg


0523ca_5d8ca415890c47d79af76cd7b11b3f71~mv2.jpg



0523ca_0d5b078da88342e79b21cc005475e4ff~mv2.jpg


The rotary switch for Dual / Lateral Vertical mode, note the most easy part to build...

0523ca_eb8350470e4346c08ebdef3269b3f1c6~mv2.jpg



Question my friend...On the power supply of the Opto 7 , did you jump the "choke" pad, or did you just leave it blank with the metal screw bracket soldered on top? I'm asking cause I didn't use a choke and not sure what to do here... im almost finished.. Also where did you find the sma wire connectors? not the SMAs themselves but the actual wire that connects each one. Like I said im almost finished.. I learned alot but definitely requires ALOT of patience and some educated guesses lol
 

Dannydedos

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2019
Messages
11
Does anyone here know exactly which SMA cables are required to wire up the board? Also most of m,y holes drilled came out fine but im trying to figure out which exact size hole I need for the input and output XLR connections on the back. There are two screws in the nuetrik connectors that looks like they are supposed to screw into the box but when I drilled the hole, they actually would sit out like 1/2 an inch if I use those screws. So am I suppose to leave those empty and just cut the exact shape of the connector? a little lost here lol
 

JMan

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 26, 2019
Messages
312
Location
Chicago
Dannydedos said:
Does anyone here know exactly which SMA cables are required to wire up the board? Also most of m,y holes drilled came out fine but im trying to figure out which exact size hole I need for the input and output XLR connections on the back. There are two screws in the nuetrik connectors that looks like they are supposed to screw into the box but when I drilled the hole, they actually would sit out like 1/2 an inch if I use those screws. So am I suppose to leave those empty and just cut the exact shape of the connector? a little lost here lol

For the SMA cables, Gregory recommends getting them cheap off of Amazon.  You’ll need a bunch of male-to-male cables (probably mostly 12 inches, but you should determine that based on your unit), and twice that number of female connectors with the same footprint as on the board.

For the Neutrik connectors, it depends on what series you bought.  They don’t all have the same dimensions.  Most common in my experience are N series and D series, and they actually mount slightly differently from one another.  Look at the data sheet for the ones you have, there will be a precise measurement drawing there.  Drill accordingly.
 

Dannydedos

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2019
Messages
11
Cool thanks. I figured out the dimensions of the holes needed for the xlr's.Does anyone have a link for the SMA's. its not that Im lazy. its that in one of the videos that saw greg working with a project the cables he was using seemed like the end of the connection was super small. They didn't look at all like the regular SMA's that I saw online.The ones I saw online looked like  basic cable wire connections with the screw head type of head. Are those the male to male that I need? I also did not know that I would need female to female. Thank you for that. If anyone has a link that would be super helpful. I just don't want to screw this up and order the wrong parts again lol.
 

JMan

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 26, 2019
Messages
312
Location
Chicago
Dannydedos said:
Cool thanks. I figured out the dimensions of the holes needed for the xlr's.Does anyone have a link for the SMA's. its not that Im lazy. its that in one of the videos that saw greg working with a project the cables he was using seemed like the end of the connection was super small. They didn't look at all like the regular SMA's that I saw online.The ones I saw online looked like  basic cable wire connections with the screw head type of head. Are those the male to male that I need? I also did not know that I would need female to female. Thank you for that. If anyone has a link that would be super helpful. I just don't want to screw this up and order the wrong parts again lol.

Something like this will work.  You can shop around for better prices and whatever length you need for your enclosure.

https://www.amazon.com/RFAdapter-Coaxial-Antenna-Extender-Adapter/dp/B07YJJ2MCW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=sma+cable+male+to+male&qid=1620138813&sprefix=sma+cable&sr=8-3

And maybe I was a little unclear — you don’t need female-to-female cables, you need the female connectors that solder to the boards in order to connect your male cables.  Something like these:  https://www.amazon.com/QMseller-Launch-Straight-Connector-Adapter/dp/B07GXSN7VS/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?dchild=1&keywords=sma+connectors&qid=1620139044&sprefix=sma+&sr=8-18
 
Joined
Jan 10, 2014
Messages
13
Hey, just wondering if you have more info on the t-bar boards. Do you have any spare or links to where you get them from?
 

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