Entropy continued

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Out of curiosity... the solar panels. How old are they. They do go bad over time. Perhaps one has fared the weather better than the other. I had a whole bunch of simple ones by my walk on the side of my house. The one closest to the sprinkler system died way faster than the other 3 or 4. Just a thought.
 
Out of curiosity... the solar panels. How old are they. They do go bad over time. Perhaps one has fared the weather better than the other. I had a whole bunch of simple ones by my walk on the side of my house. The one closest to the sprinkler system died way faster than the other 3 or 4. Just a thought.
If the solar cell have degraded they are similar. Being doubled up should mitigate at least some aging. These could be 8-10 years old.

My new batteries are due to arrive today. NiMH specified for 2100 charge /discharge cycles and 2000mAh capacity.

I will pop these in as soon as they arrive, and I will know within a couple days what the story is.

2Ah is probably all night when fully charged.

Batteries are the weak link with these products, especially after I hot rodded this one.

JR
 
I sometimes exhibit OCD...

For instance, I have a large collection of rechargeable batteries going back almost 30 years. Lead/acid, NiCd, NiMh... They're all numbered and maintained. I even keep a database so I can tell more or less when a certain battery is going to fail for a certain application.

There's no way to tell what kind of battery is the best. Not in performance, not in lifetime. I've got NiCd cells that are over 20 years old that still work. Sure, the capacity is less, but they still hold a charge. For every battery that still works, I've probably thrown out 20 or more others that failed.

A car battery that lasts 10 years is a real good one. That's the general consensus isn't it?

I've got a few that are over 20 years old. And these weren't new when I got them. They're mostly UPS batteries that were replaced after four or five years. A few are traction batteries. Their capacity is just over half what it used to be when new.

The only ones that seem to fail me soon are 9V blocks, as used in wireless mics and IEMs. I haven't got one that lasted longer than two or three years. The technology doesn't seem to make a difference.

The same goes for solar cells. My collection isn't as numerous as the batteries one, but still, I can't tell if an old one will still work, or if it will be degraded. Sure, none of these were bought new. They're all from gadgets like John's garden lights.

Maybe someone can see the rules, or separate the good ones from the bad, but I can't.
 
I sometimes exhibit OCD...

For instance, I have a large collection of rechargeable batteries going back almost 30 years. Lead/acid, NiCd, NiMh... They're all numbered and maintained. I even keep a database so I can tell more or less when a certain battery is going to fail for a certain application.
you want any more, but my old ones are not numbered?
There's no way to tell what kind of battery is the best. Not in performance, not in lifetime. I've got NiCd cells that are over 20 years old that still work. Sure, the capacity is less, but they still hold a charge. For every battery that still works, I've probably thrown out 20 or more others that failed.
The new Ni-MH are pretty confident with claims like holds 70% of charge for 10 years.... I am more interested in the recharge 2100 times.
A car battery that lasts 10 years is a real good one. That's the general consensus isn't it?
My car battery was going bad (weak cranking) after only a few years and I diagnosed the problem as not enough regular usage. My once a week, 17 mile shopping trip was not enough to keep my battery healthy. The ECU's 24x7 current drain, and only once a week charge was not enough to keep the battery fresh and allowed it to become sulfated. I invested in a smart trickle charger and now expect plenty more years of crisp starts.
I've got a few that are over 20 years old. And these weren't new when I got them. They're mostly UPS batteries that were replaced after four or five years. A few are traction batteries. Their capacity is just over half what it used to be when new.

The only ones that seem to fail me soon are 9V blocks, as used in wireless mics and IEMs. I haven't got one that lasted longer than two or three years. The technology doesn't seem to make a difference.

The same goes for solar cells. My collection isn't as numerous as the batteries one, but still, I can't tell if an old one will still work, or if it will be degraded. Sure, none of these were bought new. They're all from gadgets like John's garden lights.

Maybe someone can see the rules, or separate the good ones from the bad, but I can't.
My hot rodded Franken light involved some guesswork. The master IC that regulates on/off/and charging, has a Chinese data sheet that I couldn't read... I am impressed with the robustness and flexibility of the chip design. I wired up two solar cells in series and it didn't even blink. I changed the inductor value that sets the LED on current to squeeze out a little more battery life. I deviated so much from the nominal design that I didn't expect these to last one season, let alone several years. Back when I first started messing with these we didn't have 2a/2,000 cycle rechargeable AA batteries.

These lamps are so cheap that they are probably expected to be disposable. My driveway lamps now have brand new top shelf Panasonic (eneloop) batteries. The lights are still lit so far tonight, but the first real test will be tomorrow night since I didn't charge these before use, just popped them in place. Tomorrow they will get a fair start after full overnight discharge. The weak battery was already dark by now so this is already better.

[edit- both driveway lights are still going after midnight so it looks like the bad battery diagnosis is confirmed. /edit]

JR
 
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These days, car batteries last a lot longer because the ECU is a far better charger than the old voltage regulator.

In the old days, a dying battery faded out slowly. The last car battery I replaced, still provided 12V, but the ECU refused to provide voltage to the starter. Of course, I doubted the ECU's judgement, but it was right. Despite still providing 12V, the capacity was too low to crank the engine AND provide enough juice for the electronics. It lasted six years, so that's not too bad.

Another advantage is that the starter motor will last longer too.

And, no John, I don't need any more batteries. But thanks for the offer :cool:

Most of mine see very little use these days. I just wish I could find a set of 9V blocks that are really good. The best ones so far came from a US company, but they aren't cheap. Add shipment cost and buying a dozen or so is way too expensive. I can't find them over here. I'm sure there must be good ones out there, but as I don't buy large quantities I can't tell them apart.
 
These days, car batteries last a lot longer because the ECU is a far better charger than the old voltage regulator.
my 25 YO car was not designed to only be driven 17 miles, once a week. The ECU (including a misbehaving OEM alarm system) puts a constant drain on the battery. My 17 highway miles are not enough to top off the battery after two or three starts. I can see with my smart charger that it goes into de-sulphation repair mode. I leave the charger connected 24x7 and it isn't smart enough to supply enough low level current to prevent the battery weakening, but it periodically shifts into repair mode.
In the old days, a dying battery faded out slowly. The last car battery I replaced, still provided 12V, but the ECU refused to provide voltage to the starter. Of course, I doubted the ECU's judgement, but it was right. Despite still providing 12V, the capacity was too low to crank the engine AND provide enough juice for the electronics. It lasted six years, so that's not too bad.

Another advantage is that the starter motor will last longer too.
That reminds me of my starter motor story... I have messed with cars since I was a yout so i am pretty familiar with automotive symptoms. Back last century the starter motor for my current car failed. I was still working at Peavey so didn't have much time to wrench on my car. I didn't trust the local ford dealer (thats another story***), but the local Lincoln/Mercury dealer was OK******. I parked my car on a slope so I could jump start it. I drove over to the Lincoln/Mercury repair shop and told them I needed to get the starter motor replaced (not trivial in this car the large engine needs to be unbolted and jacked up out of the way. The head mechanic came out and told me to shut off my motor, so he could test the battery (his diagnosis). I told him I would, but the car would not start again. He measured the battery and was surprised that it measured good (meaning I was correct). I had him give me a push so I could jump start it one last time and pull it inside his shop.
And, no John, I don't need any more batteries. But thanks for the offer :cool:
Both driveway lamps were still lit at 6AM this morning so I think I can stick a fork in these for several more years. It stands to be seen if these can deliver the 2000+ cycles (almost 6 years).

[edit- a perhaps final update on this, the lights were still lit, pre dawn this morning, despite yesterday being overcast and raining. It looks like the extra battery capacity is useful. /edit]

JR

*** I lost trust in the local ford dealer when they botched a simple tune up. I paid them to swap out my spark plugs, but noticed a misfire after a few days. I popped open my hood during my lunch break to check for a loose spark plug wire. When i was a kid pumping gas I fixed at least one car that the day time mechanic didn't seat the spark plug wires completely. This time while checking the wires, I found a spark plug that was only finger tight. I unscrewed it and could see that the electrode was burned up from overheating. The spark plug is kept from overheating by transferring heat to the head, being loose it over heated. Since there was a car parts store within walking distance of my office, I bought a new plug, and borrowed a spark plug wrench from one of my coworkers. I drove over to the ford dealership to give the service dept manager some useful negative feedback. When I showed the manager the burned up spark plug, he said it looked like "water damage" :rolleyes: . Then he offered to give me a new spark plug... I said no thank you, but have heard other similar horror stories.

***** The better Lincoln/Mercury service department was not without issue. After my car was repaired and I went to pick it up. They couldn't find my keys. After a little scrambling they found my keys in one of the office worker's pocket. He had apparently needed to take it for an extra test drive. :rolleyes:
Most of mine see very little use these days. I just wish I could find a set of 9V blocks that are really good. The best ones so far came from a US company, but they aren't cheap. Add shipment cost and buying a dozen or so is way too expensive. I can't find them over here. I'm sure there must be good ones out there, but as I don't buy large quantities I can't tell them apart.
 
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Car dealer stories...

I installed electronics (the first analysers, long before OBD) in the automotive sector for nearly seven years. In general, real mechanics are the nicest folk around. It's the rest you can't trust. Especially 2nd hand car salesmen.

Anyhow, I was at one of these 2nd hand car sellers, installing a Videotex terminal. There was a cheap Suzuki SJ on the premises. I had a look, as I was interested, but quickly decided it wasn't worth the 50.000 BEF asking price, since it was completely rotten due to corrosion. Even the interior didn't look very well.

Inside, the sales guy was talking to a couple of Lebanese buyers about a Merc 500. It was an old one, nearly impossible to sell, despite looking good. People who can afford that ride, don't buy 20 year old cars with over 200.000 kms on the odometer. At least, if they have half a brain. The sales guy was working on the Lebanese buyers.

In walks a young guy in worn jeans to inquire about the Suzuki. I heard the sales guy say it cost 150.000 BEF, to chase him off. He left.

Some minutes later, the Lebanese also left, without buying the Merc.

Twenty minutes later, the young dude reappeared, with his wife and kid. Cash in hand. I got an angry look from the sales guy, as he knew I knew the price. The car sold for the ridiculously high price.

When I made my bill, I added a lot. He kept quiet. Didn't even look at me. I then gave him the correct bill, about five times less...

Again, he didn't blink an eye. But he understood.

Years later, I came across the same guy. Head of sales at a Porsche dealer. The owner told me he was very happy to have him. Best sales guy ever. I kept quiet...
 
1997 mustang Cobra...
A guy a few blocks away that buys some neat rare cars every now and then just got a Shelby GT-H....reminded me of yours a little but I guess they were later....beautiful car... His must be the 2006 after looking around at info... I'll snap a pic when I get over there again.

He used to have some rare Camaro. Haven't seen it in a while. It was like a 68 or 9...white with orange stripes....Had some weird name for it...Some kind of package iirc....
 
A guy a few blocks away that buys some neat rare cars every now and then just got a Shelby GT-H....reminded me of yours a little but I guess they were later....beautiful car... His must be the 2006 after looking around at info... I'll snap a pic when I get over there again.
Some conflated branding to unpack there.... Carol Shelby (RIP) was the famous Texan car builder who made the original AC Cobra sport cars back in the 60s. Started out with 289CI ford V8 but later stepped up to 427CI ford V8 in a light weight (AC Bristol) body. They were fast, and original ones in good shape are probably worth several hundreds of $K. The "-H" suggests a Hertz rental variant of the Mustang GT-XXX. I think thay may still be aking/selling those.

Heres a pix of of 2007 Shelby GT-H... Pretty sweet. Hertz actually rented these out.
01-1511885670710@2x.jpg


My car was pretty slick for 25+ years ago (4 valve, double over head cam, yadda yadda), but nowadays technology has advanced. Ford IC technology has taken a few steps beyond my tired old technology. Nowadays they make 4 valve engines with DOHC but the cams also have variable cam timing. This allows all kinds of tricks for more low RPM torque, more high RPM horsepower, all with better efficiency. Gas mileage is not an issue for me, only driving 17 miles a week.

For now I have slowed my roll shopping for a replacement ride, since my car is now starting reliably, the check engine light is off, and my odometer even works. I was starting to complain about how hard it was to get into and out of my car, until I realized that I had left the steering wheel adjusted too low, after I tilrted it down to get the instrument cluster out.
He used to have some rare Camaro. Haven't seen it in a while. It was like a 68 or 9...white with orange stripes....Had some weird name for it...Some kind of package iirc....
Camaro... meh... Back in the 80s my brother (RIP) drove a Camaro.

JR
 
There was a UK TV series here years back , Minder ,
Arthur Daley ,a dodgey car salesman/huckster played by George Cole and his side kick Terry ,played by Denis Waterman, the muscle of the opperation .
It ran for 11 series over 15 years , many very funny moments , they just dont make comedy like that any more.
I didnt realise Waterman passed away last year ,


I lived in Waterloo ,Belgium for a few years in my mid teens ,
We ended up buying a small used Citroen for my mom from dodgey dealer up the road , it ran fine , never a problem ,but I soon discovered it had a dark secret , it was in fact what they call a 'cut and shut ' or half of two different cars welded together . Anyway who ever put it together must have known what they were doing , it was still going strong into the mid 90's .
 
Back on topic wrt my franken-lights, the last few days have been cloudy and overcast. Instead of staying lit up all night, they have been winking out between 7-8PM. I may need to add a third solar panel in series with the two already there.... (kidding).

I expect them, and the sun light, to return to normal pretty soon...

[edit- yet another cloudy overcast day, so again low expectations for tonight's dark o'clock. /edit]

[edit2] Today the lamps both went dark before 8PM... this is emblematic of trying to use battery back up for continuous solar power... /edit2]

[edit3] after the first sunny day in about a week... my frankenlights made it all the way to the next morning... lights were still on past 3AM /edit]

JR
 
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We all like easy repairs, and this one is fixed I think, and pretty easy.

My MAC mini that use for all things internet (like posting here) started to randomly lock up and become unresponsive to the mouse. I would have to manually force a shut down and reboot to get my mouse back.

On a whim I swapped out the MAC mini mouse, with the mouse from my security camera rig.... For about a week now, the mouse has been working reliably. I am not sure how the mouse managed to screw with the computer, but I have a new mouse on order (<$5).

That was easy, but unexplained. :unsure:

JR
 
More data results from my franken solar lamps. Now I have two 4 lamps total, 2 stock, and 2 modified arrayed together at the end of my driveway. This morning at 5:30AM I looked out the window and noticed that the two stock solar lights were noticeably dimmer than my two franken-lamps.

This is a logical result. Years ago I tweaked the value of the inductor inside the franken-lamps that establishes the LED output drive current. Driving the LEDs with fractionally less current extends battery life. This result confirms that the tweak worked. IIRC there was only one inductor inside that design, so the smaller inductor may have reduced the battery charging pulses too, but the two solar panels in series likely doubled the available charging energy, so the net result was less light but for longer. The reduced current light output was still brighter than the stock lamps as their batteries ran out.

JR
 
Today's entropy episode involves re-securing my flag pole mount. one of the two wood blocks that the U-bolts were going through split, no doubt due to being exposed to the elements. Luckily I had a hose clamp sitting around that was the right size so old glory is back in action for now. I expect the other wood block to fail also.

JR
 
The "-H" suggests a Hertz rental variant of the Mustang GT-XXX. I think thay may still be aking/selling those.
Finally got to see the Shelby today and snap a pic while trying not to look too creepy.. Interesting that there isn't the gold striping down the back and the emblem says GT , not the pony I see on the ones online. I'll need to stop him when I see him to ask what the story is. Pretty sure he's a super freak about really rare cars so it wouldn't be surprising if it was some special deal. Or maybe it's some copy... Definitely says GT-H though...
 
Nice... I stopped seriously shopping for a car since I got my ride reliable again. The price of used cars has peaked and has stopped increasing. I am interested in the 5 liter motor with variable cam timing, reportedly they make lots of power with good drivability. The bad news is they are still in the $40-50k ball park while adjusted for inflation that isn't crazy compared to what I paid for my car new 25 years ago.

JR
 
another entropy failure... my outdoor temperature sensor has been misbehaving for a couple weeks. At first it lost sync, so I replaced the batteries. It lost sync another two times since then... today it is claiming that it is 91 degrees outside , it isn't ;) more like mid 70s.

I ordered a new replacement remote temp sensor last week and it is due to arrive tomorrow. I am almost tempted to take the old one apart but probably won't.

[edit- another day in the 90s, maybe it is true temperature... damn that climate change. /edit]

JR
 
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Finally saw the guy out earlier and it's not a Shelby GT-H... he said the previous owner did the decals .Think he said it was actually a GT Premium or something like that.... said it had next to no miles so he wanted it.... Still nice car....
 

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I really like the Ti-VCT motors.... 450 hp and 410 ft pounds of torque will give the premium GT some scoot.

My old mustang cobra which has a cooler name, only makes around 300 hp. Mine has 4 Valve dual overhead cams, but the Ti-VCT variable cam timing gives the modern motors extra torque and extra HP... Not to disregard 25 years of engine technology advances...

JR
 

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