Thread from the dead - but still interesting to me.
I have been experimenting with Ferrite cores for audio, for inductors in EQ circuits. I thought I would do a bit of a "Memory Dump" of what I have learned.
I find the RM7 and RM8 cores the easiest to work with ( They both handle enough turns to get inductance values for audio using 32, 34 or 36 AWG magnet wire) and get parts for (ChrioN uses RM8, Carnhill use RM7, and you can get some parts at Mouser).
Oddly, while there is lots of ferrite around to play with, the bobbins seem to be the hardest to buy in small volume. I can't find pot core bobbins for love or money, and they cost a fortune for RM7/RM8 at mouser, but you can get them. (You don't need he round insulating washer for our purposes, the square one is only needed if you want to keep the ferrite from touching the PCB.
I have also been playing with and ordering some Pot Core's to mess around with. These are named by size not by the more standards based RM7 and RM8 approach, and they seem to be a little be different from each other (number of openings etc) but in general they use names like 26/16 and 22/13 which are named for diameter/height of a stack of two half cores. Carnill inductors also come in 26/16 and 22/13 as well as RM8 which is newer for them.
Here is what I have learned so far.
If you can count turns, it is very easy to precisely get a multi-tap inductor that measures out to within 2% or so (as long as you are willing to make a bobbin with 100 turns on it, and assemble it to each new core to measure a precise "AL" value for each core). The cores drift with tempurature and how hard they are clamped together by another 5% pretty easily.
While the LCR meters may not be valid measurements, they are repeatable, and my cheap LCR meter (Victor) has proven pretty accurate to the frequency curves I later measure on the EQ in RightMark.
Some of the cores have a threaded insert glued into a center hole. These are NOT intended to attach the cores together (there are clips for that) The threaded holes take little ferrite slugs for RM7 and RM8 mouser sells these slugs (which are tiny complex little beasts) for about $2 apiece, but using one of these you can trim the AL value after you wind and really "zero in" the inductance, if you care. You can easily tune them to within 1%, again temperature drift aside.
Each ferrite is made of a "Material" which has an AL value. Each manufacturer has their own "Materials" which they name or number or code. They all seem to be proprietary but well spec'd. But the ferrite cores are "ground" with or without gaps (grind shortens the center post creating an air gap ), the air gap lowers the AL value, bigger gap, lower value. And I assume the lower AL means harder to saturate? But of course you need more turns to get the same inductance with a lower AL?
Anyway for each core pair you will get an AL value and a material name (like P48/400)
The pot cores come in "pairs" of halves, sometimes gapped equally, sometimes the gap is only on one half for "mix and match" (that way you could get a big gap using 2 ground halves, a small gap with one ground half, and no gap with two unground halves).
Some of the cores have no hole in the middle, these are said to be for transformers, and I assume it is because they are harder to saturate.
None of the manufacturers ever mentions a frequency below 100K Hz. (So they don't see analog audio geeks as a big market). But they do have lots of specs and descriptions of each material.
I have played with cores with AL values from 8000 (ungapped) to 250 (gapped), and I can precisely measure the AL value but I don't know how to measure when the inductor is saturating (CJ, can you shed any light on this?).
I don't know what material is best for audio inductors and transformers but I have been trying to suss that out...If you pick the one that the Manufacturers suggest for resonant circuits below 100K then I have been making a list of those, as I go along, but there are lots of manufacturers here are a couple. Promising materials seem to be:
Fair-Rite - Material 77 (Also possibly 75 or 78)
EPCOS - Material P48 (Possibly N26, T38 and N30)
I think the key is to choose materials with Low Hysteresis to reduce distortion... (CJ or anyone want to chime in?).
The materials are often stamped on the core on at least one half, along with grind or AL information coded differently for each manufacturer.
Carnhill has pictures of two of thier inductors (the VT9046, and VT9047) which they "Advertise" to use P48/400 which is EPCOS material P48 which has an AL of 2300 (Permeability) without a grind, but which they grind to an AL of 400. (The way they advertise that is that the picture has P48 400 stamped all over it). I think that is very nice of them, and I wish they would show pictures of the other core stamps. Anyone have a close up look at the other Carnhill cores? Can you read the material stamp on it?
The VT9046/7 are RM7 based inductors, but it seems hard to get that material/grind in an RM7 core which they use, without special ordering it. But AL of 250 and i think 650 are readily available in RM7, and you could put the adjuster screw in the AL250 stuff and bump it up somewhat.
It has a hole, I don't know if it is threaded or if they use the adjustor screw, I am just going by the pictures they publish.
So my question for the smart magnetic's guys and Mr Hacksaw...are:
What is a good material for Audio? Do we want the lowest AL value that will let us get the Henries and DCR ( Q ) we need so we saturate less (does it even work that way)? Do we want lowest hysteresis? How does coercive force recon into our target material?
I would love to know how to measure when an inductor begins to saturate... can anyone help there. I didn't understand the description you gave above (CJ) maybe because the picture is now missing... (it is 8 years old or something now!).
For the time being, I have been trying out low frequency materials shooting for AL of 400, and P48 if I can find it for the inductors I am using. I am also trying out MPP torroids because apparently that was used in Pultec EQ's but it is an archaic material.
I hope some of this helps folks out, it may all be obvious but it took a long time for me to figure it all out, and now with one point to point G-Pultec passive section under my belt, I thought I would leave some bread-crumbs.. and ask for a little help.
The inductor winding thing is kind of fun once you get the hang of it. It is a pretty simple spreadsheet to figure out how many turns fit on the bobbins... and how many turns you need for a given AL value, and what DCR that will give you etc. Then you just wind them, although I would be interested in some discussion of winding patterns, reducing capacitance, etc.
There is a picture here of 4 I have wound. All are for the g-pultec with 22/69/169/269mH. They have AL values from 7982 to 254, and they all work. The two RM based ones are RM7 and RM8 (RM8 is bigger), and have a copper shield. They are all on little cards with 1mm pins so I can pop them in and out of the passive section to try them out, hear them and measure them.