G7 Body ?'s

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AudioJunkie

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Jun 3, 2004
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Houston, TX
Alright. For the THIRD time today! (Once on RO-TT about an hour or less before it got trashed, once again on Viitalahde's yahoo group, and now here. :)

I have no metalworking skill or tools, so when i go to visit my partner's family i'm going to get his dad to help make my G7 mic bodies. I'm just going to have parts shipped from McMaster-Carr directly to them so the stuff is there when we arrive.

How's this sound for a mic body: #89965K132 General Purpose Aluminum Tubing 1.87" ID, 2" OD, .065" Wall Thickness
Or should i go with brass?

I wanted to search the board to double check my memory but I seem to recall that 10 and something like 20 mesh per inch (or did the inner mesh need to be even smaller?) was found to be adequate for outer and inner mesh, respectively. They have so many materials and grade to choose from at McMaster-Carr that i'm not sure which to pick. And they don't have individual pictures of each weave style, size, material, etc, so it's hard to figure out what it's going to look like.
If I go with aluminium body, I'd like a similar color wire atleast for the outer mesh. Would aluminium mesh look better than steel on the outer mesh?

Outer Mesh: #9219T453 Plain Steel Standard Grade Woven Wire Cloth 10 X 10 Mesh, .032" Wire Diameter, 12" X 12" Sheet
Inner Mesh: #9227T412 Aluminum Standard Grade Woven Wire Cloth 20 X 20 Mesh, .016" Wire Diameter, 12" X 12" Sheet

And of course the 1/4" square bar to mount the PCB and stuff.
What about the metal discs for the ends that i mount the connector and the slightly smaler end for the capsule and mount. Should i just buy some sheet metal and have discs cut from that? Can't seem to find discs smaller than 3" diameter and .5" thick.

Thanks guys, glad we're back so soon.
Daniel
 

adrianh

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Jun 3, 2004
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Selma, North Carolina; USA
Daniel;
I have not done this but Brass is soft easy to machine,
not too expensive and you can solder it.
I would get brass tube and brass screen.
Although copper water pipe can be found that big.
It also can be soldered.
The point is you can solder seams and the grill
in. and if you need the pro look it can be painted.
Or you can send it to a chrome plater to have it electro plated.
Do not use steel.
Do not use aluminium as you cannot solder to it, or plate it well.

Now alumium would make a cheap 1st prototype to get the bugs worked
out. Then change to brass so you would not waste the higher price brass.
 

AudioJunkie

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Jun 3, 2004
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153
Location
Houston, TX
Okay, so i went with brass, even though it added alot more to the cost of the materials. Working on technical drawings right now, i'd be happy to share them once I'm done.

Does the capsule need to be any certain distance from the electronics? I'm going to have a .04" thick metal disc separating the electronics and where I can mount the capsule. Right now, from the capsule end of the PCB to the mounting plate, its a little under an inch.

I'll be having 20x20 brass mesh, should i be alright with that, or do you think i'll need to add finer mesh? If so I can buy finer and line the inside of the bigger mesh

Daniel

P.S. This is open to anyone :)
 

gyraf

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Distance between capsule and electronics is no problem.

I don't know what 20x20 mesh is, but if you get electrostatic noise inteference, yes, you could line the grille with a secondary layer of mesh.

It would be great to see your mechanical drawings when you finish the project. The mechanical part of it is the thing that scares most people avay from trying this.

And it's worth it..

Jakob E.
 

gyraf

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Try it.

I like being able to see the capsule.

and if you get too much static - use a second layer inside it.

Jakob E.
 

sverige_cruz

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Jun 4, 2004
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Location
Sacramento, CA
Hey Daniel -

Cool thing that you're building yourself one of these. When I built mine I used 10x10 squares per inch stainless wire mesh, from McMaster-Carr, and also a 0.5" thick copper disc for the bottom. I haven't had any interference yet, because of the grill opening size, and I can't imagine your 20x20 having any problems. After drilling a hole (for the XLR connector) in 1/2" thick copper without a drill press, I had wished there was another way. Too bad I found out later that you can get a rail end, like jrmintz (Seth Glassman) used in his mic. http://www.rensup.com/ sells these as Item # 19097. $8, last I checked.

Here's a pic of the inside of my mic. Maybe you can use this for some visual aid... I know it helped me, having others' pics, to put it together. You can see more at:

http://www.villagephotos.com/pubgallery.asp?id_=484338

Untitled-3.jpg


Happy machining - and don't forget pics afterwards :grin:

--Jesus
 

Gus

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I used McMaster Car PN 9219 t864 this is plain steel

16X16 mesh .023 wire diam.

It seems to be fine
 
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