GSSL add-on help thread

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
For the colour coding of Your transformer (these are not standarized between different manufacturers), yes. The red/orange junction will be your 0V reference voltage. This will also connect to always connected safety ground in one single spot, except you make this connection switchable for a ground-lift.
Black and blue are your transformers secondary outer winding ends. A transformer transforms AC (alternating current) in to AC out at its specific winding ratio. Positive and negative alternates at your local 50/60 Hz mains frequency.
 
Thanks Harpo, for explaining it to me in details.

When I measured with my DMM, the black with 0 and blue with 0,
I remember both outputted 18VAC each, but I couldn't see which was positive and which was negative.
Because I noticed in the "CRC manual", it says that the output has a positive and negative side, that goes to mainboard.
So I wanted to be carefull and not wire the output from CRC opposite into my GSSL. That's all.

But okay, there's no difference between pos / neg wire output from the secondaries when connecting directly to main PCB or having a CRC in between those.
 

Attachments

  • power.png
    power.png
    1.8 MB · Views: 0
Last edited:
Is the 7812 regulator an add-on?

When is the 7812 necessary vs. unnecessary?
I didn't get it in my kit, from PcbGrinder.
 
Hi, 1st time post!

I’ve built a GSSL using the rev7 pcbs. All works great, but would like to add in a pair of output transforms.
I see the nekotronics clone used carnhill vtb2281 600/600r.
But I’m unsure where the correct place would be to take the output from.
Or will it be simply from before the output xlr wiring?

Thanks in advance!
(Apologies if this is in the wrong thread!)
 

Attachments

  • 7F5B8B14-30DF-43B7-AAC6-5DCCAE6F9288.jpeg
    7F5B8B14-30DF-43B7-AAC6-5DCCAE6F9288.jpeg
    2.9 MB · Views: 0
yes, should be.

If you loose low end, short the 100R output resistors or make them e.g. 22R

/Jakob E.
I’ve fitted the transformers and they have added some nice colour. What would the effect of changing the output resistor have?

One other thing, is there a simple ‘how to ‘ on calibration for the Gssl?
 

Attachments

  • B0C7FE04-688C-4B21-AC5C-BE7D9F95D6A5.jpeg
    B0C7FE04-688C-4B21-AC5C-BE7D9F95D6A5.jpeg
    5.5 MB · Views: 1
  • 2ED10325-FFA3-4DA2-94FD-96871ABAC224.jpeg
    2ED10325-FFA3-4DA2-94FD-96871ABAC224.jpeg
    3.7 MB · Views: 2
  • 60E59ECB-57C6-4324-9DFB-69385E887A5A.jpeg
    60E59ECB-57C6-4324-9DFB-69385E887A5A.jpeg
    2.7 MB · Views: 0
Got these 2V push-buttons for bypass & turbo. And a meter with 5-7V LED.
So I have 9-11 volts in total and I wanna connect it to the 12V I have available on the ctrl-board-LED output.

How can I add them in parallel without dimming the meter-LED whenever buttons are pushed down?
 

Attachments

  • VU_Meter_S-500.pdf
    27.8 KB · Views: 0
  • british-push-button-DAPB400.pdf
    390.7 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:
Got these 2V push-buttons for bypass & turbo. And a meter with 5-7V LED.
So I have 9-11 volts in total and I wanna connect it to the 12V I have available on the ctrl-board-LED output.

How can I add them in parallel without dimming the meter-LED whenever buttons are pushed down?
You don't have the LED's inside the DPDT switches connected in series, so LED forward voltages don't add up to your '9-11 volts'.
Allowing maybe 10mA per LED inside the switches for a parallel connection, each LED needs a current limiting resistor of (12VDC supply - 2VDC LED forward voltage)/0.01A= 1000 ohms.
Inside the meter are two series connected LEDs with -depending on LED-colour- 5-7VDC forward voltage. Assuming maybe similar brightness and again allowing 10mA, the current limiting resistor for your meter illumination will be (12VDC supply - maybe 5.7VDC LED forward voltage)/0.01A= 630 ohms. Lesser allowed mA=lesser brightness, exceeding the max allowed 20mA parts limit will let the smoke out.
You DON'T connect these to the 12VDC spot on control pcb. The 78L12 vreg isn't build for this additional load.
You connect to the optional 12VDC aux supply spot on main pcb (and without the 7812 voltage regulator installed, there is no aux 12VDC).
The LEDs inside the switches only use the switch housing as a carrier. If these are illuminating or not has nothing to do with the switches status (they could be rhythmical blinking or show an overload condition or whatever else), except you hook these up accordingly. For your bypass switch you'd need 2 switch poles for the gssl-circuit and a 3rd pole for powering the LED. The switch only has 2 poles, so you'd probably use an additional DPDT relay for the else missing pole. The supersidechain filterboard already has a provision for this relay and protection diode on board, else a piece of perfboard, apropriate relay and diode will do as well.
Good luck
(must have been answerd a LOT more than 10 times...)
 
You don't have the LED's inside the DPDT switches connected in series, so LED forward voltages don't add up to your '9-11 volts'.
Allowing maybe 10mA per LED inside the switches for a parallel connection, each LED needs a current limiting resistor of (12VDC supply - 2VDC LED forward voltage)/0.01A= 1000 ohms.
Inside the meter are two series connected LEDs with -depending on LED-colour- 5-7VDC forward voltage. Assuming maybe similar brightness and again allowing 10mA, the current limiting resistor for your meter illumination will be (12VDC supply - maybe 5.7VDC LED forward voltage)/0.01A= 630 ohms. Lesser allowed mA=lesser brightness, exceeding the max allowed 20mA parts limit will let the smoke out.
You DON'T connect these to the 12VDC spot on control pcb. The 78L12 vreg isn't build for this additional load.
You connect to the optional 12VDC aux supply spot on main pcb (and without the 7812 voltage regulator installed, there is no aux 12VDC).
The LEDs inside the switches only use the switch housing as a carrier. If these are illuminating or not has nothing to do with the switches status (they could be rhythmical blinking or show an overload condition or whatever else), except you hook these up accordingly. For your bypass switch you'd need 2 switch poles for the gssl-circuit and a 3rd pole for powering the LED. The switch only has 2 poles, so you'd probably use an additional DPDT relay for the else missing pole. The supersidechain filterboard already has a provision for this relay and protection diode on board, else a piece of perfboard, apropriate relay and diode will do as well.
Good luck
(must have been answered a LOT more than 10 times...)
Great detailed explanation. Thanks Harpo. Believe me, I tried to find this info -no luck. I've been searching for days!

I'll order one 7812 and connect the meter-LED's to the aux, thanks.
The meter has an internal 600Ω resistance and I believe the LED's are drawing 20mA.
So I'm not sure if a resistor is needed or not. We'll see, I can start with one and pull it off to see if anything changes.

I'm gonna built 2x SSC-boards soon, so I'll hook up my pushbutton-LED's to them (and maybe with a 1K resistor to each, if needed.
Not completely sure about the Amps.. the websites says max current 3A which seems odd !?Screenshot 2023-03-28 at 22.25.06.png

Thank you so much for helping me solve & understand all these challenges.. I've learned a lot, really!
 
The meter has an internal 600Ω resistance and I believe the LED's are drawing 20mA.
So I'm not sure if a resistor is needed or not. We'll see, I can start with one and pull it off to see if anything changes.

I'm gonna built 2x SSC-boards soon, so I'll hook up my pushbutton-LED's to them (and maybe with a 1K resistor to each, if needed.
Not completely sure about the Amps.. the websites says max current 3A which seems odd !?View attachment 107091

Thank you so much for helping me solve & understand all these challenges.. I've learned a lot, really!
From datasheet the coil of the meter with 1mA fsd is 600 ohms, so applying 0.6V across the meters coil will give full scale deflection.
The 600 ohms has nothing to do with the needed current limiting resistor for the LEDs. (they try to draw any current they can until they burn up when exceeding 20mA, hence current limiting needed).
"Pushbutton with socket. LED 2V Blue" for usual blue LEDs come with forward current of about 3.3V, not 2V. (I'd probably keep the 1K current limiting resistor and maybe adjust to taste in order to not build a blue eyepiercer...)
"Max current: 3A" and "Max voltage: 250VA" is the switching ability without arcing. (and voltage is V, not VA, as well as missing designator AC or DC).
 
From datasheet the coil of the meter with 1mA fsd is 600 ohms, so applying 0.6V across the meters coil will give full scale deflection.
The 600 ohms has nothing to do with the needed current limiting resistor for the LEDs. (they try to draw any current they can until they burn up when exceeding 20mA, hence current limiting needed). "Pushbutton with socket. LED 2V Blue" for usual blue LEDs come with forward current of about 3.3V, not 2V. (I'd probably keep the 1K current limiting resistor and maybe adjust to taste in order to not build a blue eyepiercer...)
"Max current: 3A" and "Max voltage: 250VA" is the switching ability without arcing. (and voltage is V, not VA, as well as missing designator AC or DC).
You're right, I missed that last part V and VA. I'll make sure to have a resistor on the button led's when connect it to the SSC relay. For the Turbo LED, I will connect to the ControlPcb-LED. It already has a R 1K on board.

Actually I tried a 600Ω on the meter-led. I couldn't see the difference, but I will def. keep it on.
Thanks for the advice Harpo

Would you mind looking at my measurements and perhaps comment on it? : GSSL HELP THREAD!!!
 
Last edited:
Yes I deleted it last night after I fixed it. No comments where made for a month, so I figured it out myself :)
I guess measurements were correct, that's why no-one could figure it out.

The problem was Right side wasn't compressing. It was the Right VCA.. something was wrong there, either a short or a bad solder. Anyways, I detached it and soldered it back. I Think the metal body of the VCA was shorting the 27K resistor above it, when pushing the VCA down with my fingers, the compression kept changing.. The PCB is very tight.. I had to move quite a few components so the metal body of both VCA's wouldn't touch them.
 

Attachments

  • test.png
    test.png
    469.1 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:
Back
Top