Has anyone made a snake using Tech-Flex nylon sheathing?

[Ricardus]

So I am going to be making some 12 and 8 channel sub-snakes and drum-snakes, and I want to use the tech-flex stuff, but I have never used it before. I've made a bunch of snakes, but never with this stuff. Funny thing is, I used to work at a company that made snakes, and a few years into my tenure there, they started using it, but I never watched them use it.

So when I cover the fanout leads with the stuff, is it going into the XLR and under the strain relief chuck (Neutrik XLRs)?

Anyone done this?

 

[mad.ax]

I did quite a few but that was decades ago... The thing is one needs to stop the braid somehow. One way to achieve this is to use a lighter to melt the nylon, but you'll get a much cleaner result using heat shrink. Then heat shrink goes into the XLR...
Otherwise trying to get the braid into the Neutrik is a pita...

Axel

 

[Gold]

Are you talking about multipair that has no jacket over the shield? If so I’d think any money saved on the cable would be swamped by the tech flex cost and labor.

 

[Ilya]

One of our local rentals uses heat shrink tubing for the braid at the XLR end.
I’ll see if I can make some photos in the reasonable amount of time.

 

[Ricardus]

Are you talking about multipair that has no jacket over the shield? If so I’d think any money saved on the cable would be swamped by the tech flex cost and labor.

I won't be using that but that's what the company I used to work for had from Belden. So first they'd shrink over the foil shield on each pair, then they'd put on the tech-flex. Thing is, they didn't start getting requests for Tech-Flex until I had been there a while, which around the time when the competition (Whirlwind) started using it. This was shortly before I left the company, so I never got to see them use it. There are some youtube videos on the subject but I have't found one that addresses my issue.

I'll be using the Mogami 293x multipair wire. I've built some stuff out of their 2 pair and the individually jacketed pairs are still pretty delicate. They're using a pretty thin jacket, and I figured I'd use the Tech-Flex to add some girth.

I bought some on Amazon and it wasn't expensive at all.

 

[Ricardus]

One of our local rentals uses heat shrink tubing for the braid at the XLR end.
I’ll see if I can make some photos in the reasonable amount of time.

Awesome, thanks.

 

[noizetoys]

I've attached pictures of one of the snakes I built in the way back. 1/4" to TT.

I would do a bit of heat shrink in the connector to hold the snakeskin in place. The boot (the part that screws into the shell) covers the snakeskin and reduce the strain on the shrink and skin.

To make life a little easier I covered the entire TT in shrink. The TT connector's shell comes off of these really easily so it was better to cover the whole thing.

On the multicore end of the snakeskin, do yourself a favor and either shrink each individual before adding the shrink around all the pairs or make the shrink around the pairs long enough that the snake skin can't creep it's way out and make it look all not pretty.

As for labelling each pair, if you're one of those "hoydi-toydi" companies that prides itself on making a harness that doesn't punish you for using it and has at least some sense of ascetics; then use individually numbered custom shrink labels (with logo and contact info) that are available in a variety of colors!

Sorry, I love labels! But my therapist thinks that we should be able to work through those codependencies issues and go back to just being 'friends'...

As for the rest of us unwashed masses, use a wire label and clear heat shrink. You can also get Avery labels you can use in a printer. I know we don't print the internet, but sometimes it's nice to have yet another copy of the rope-clinging "Hang in There" cat to leave on a random stranger's wind shield (or wind screen for those of you on that side of the pond).

Not that I've done that.

Today.


Sorry, long weekend...

 

[Ricardus]

I've attached pictures of one of the snakes I built in the way back. 1/4" to TT.

I would do a bit of heat shrink in the connector to hold the snakeskin in place. The boot (the part that screws into the shell) covers the snakeskin and reduce the strain on the shrink and skin.

To make life a little easier I covered the entire TT in shrink. The TT connector's shell comes off of these really easily so it was better to cover the whole thing.

On the multicore end of the snakeskin, do yourself a favor and either shrink each individual before adding the shrink around all the pairs or make the shrink around the pairs long enough that the snake skin can't creep it's way out and make it look all not pretty.

As for labelling each pair, if you're one of those "hoydi-toydi" companies that prides itself on making a harness that doesn't punish you for using it and has at least some sense of ascetics; then use individually numbered custom shrink labels (with logo and contact info) that are available in a variety of colors!

Sorry, I love labels! But my therapist thinks that we should be able to work through those codependencies issues and go back to just being 'friends'...

As for the rest of us unwashed masses, use a wire label and clear heat shrink. You can also get Avery labels you can use in a printer. I know we don't print the internet, but sometimes it's nice to have yet another copy of the rope-clinging "Hang in There" cat to leave on a random stranger's wind shield (or wind screen for those of you on that side of the pond).

Not that I've done that.

Today.


Sorry, long weekend...


View attachment 98553View attachment 98554View attachment 98555

Thanks!!

The tech flex that I bought is kinda flat on a roll. So how did you push the wire through it to open it up?

 

[Gold]

Thanks!!

The tech flex that I bought is kinda flat on a roll. So how did you push the wire through it to open it up?

I use it to bundle cable and wire. If it’s under a few feet you can measure and cut it. Then put it over the pair and push it back until you can grab the pair.

For longer runs with multiple cables I tape everything together at the end I feeding through the tech flex. Then i shimmy it through by collapsing and expanding the mesh.

 

[Ricardus]

I use it to bundle cable and wire. If it’s under a few feet you can measure and cut it. Then put it over the pair and push it back until you can grab the pair.

For longer runs with multiple cables I tape everything together at the end I feeding through the tech flex. Then i shimmy it through by collapsing and expanding the mesh.

I haven't cut any or tried it yet, but the 26 gauge pairs in the Mogami I'll be using aren't stiff at all, and I can't imagine being able to push them through the tech flex which seems to want to stay flat.

I think the longest leads I'll have on my fanouts are 3 ft.

Also, some people are cutting it with a hot knife. Anyone else have any bad experiences cutting it with regular cutters?

 

[Ricardus]

As for labelling each pair, if you're one of those "hoydi-toydi" companies that prides itself on making a harness that doesn't punish you for using it and has at least some sense of ascetics; then use individually numbered custom shrink labels (with logo and contact info) that are available in a variety of colors!

Curious, what companies make harnesses that punish you?



Wait, what are these individually numbered custom shrink labels with logo and contact info?

I'll probably end up using the wire labels and clear shrink since I already have all that.

 

[klem]

I've never used a hot knife but definitely recommend having sharp scissors or lead snips. There will be a bit of fraying as it's maneuvered into place, but that's taken care of by heat shrink. I used black HS on the end furthest away from the connector, and clear HS nearest connector. If you measure things just right, you can still see the number on the individual lead of each pair, I can post a pic later today if you like.

As for numbers visible without removing boot, there are a few companies I found and some that will do custom but of course the setup fees render it useless. However, Performance Audio has good bang for buck (no affiliation).

And of course, using XXCR clear bands and white on black 1/4" tape from a label printer adds a nice touch (and security if you add contact info to the limited space)

 

[noizetoys]

In my journeys I've come across snakes and harnesses without snake skin or any other type of protection. The other benefit of snake skin is that it makes untangling individual pairs much easier. Pretty much just shake the and they untangle. Whirlwind and some other companies use colored snake skin for number groups and colored shrink and boots.

As for colored labels, checkout heat shrink.com or shrinkshop.com. Easy enough to use the Google machine.

Wire labels and clear shrink are much less expensive. I don't think the voltage passing through the cables will notice.

 

[Ricardus]

In my journeys I've come across snakes and harnesses without snake skin or any other type of protection. The other benefit of snake skin is that it makes untangling individual pairs much easier. Pretty much just shake the and they untangle. Whirlwind and some other companies use colored snake skin for number groups and colored shrink and boots.

As for colored labels, checkout heat shrink.com or shrinkshop.com. Easy enough to use the Google machine.

Wire labels and clear shrink are much less expensive. I don't think the voltage passing through the cables will notice.

Yeah, it looks fine.

As for a hot knife I'll just heat up a razor blade with a torch.

Whirlwind has the nice numbered plastic strain relief shells that are numbered and screw into Neutrik connectors. It would be cool to get those, but keeping cost down is key.

So far all this info is super useful.

 

[Gold]

I haven't cut any or tried it yet, but the 26 gauge pairs in the Mogami I'll be using aren't stiff at all, and I can't imagine being able to push them through the tech flex which seems to want to stay flat.

I think the longest leads I'll have on my fanouts are 3 ft.

Also, some people are cutting it with a hit knife. Anyone else have any bad experiences cutting it with regular cutters?

I use Mogami single pair "console wire" and have fed multiple single pairs through the tech flex for more than a few feet. You push the mesh back on its self. If the mesh is too tight for that then I'd go a size up.

 

[Ricardus]

I use Mogami single pair "console wire" and have fed multiple single pairs through the tech flex for more than a few feet. You push the mesh back on its self. If the mesh is too tight for that then I'd go a size up.

The mogami console wire I have is definitely stiffer than the multi pair individual jackets. But I'll burn that bridge when I get to it.

 

[One F Sound]

For the heatshrink that goes over the multicore end I strongly recommend using adhesive lined heatshrink tubing, otherwise it will come loose fairly soon. It needs a bit more/longer heat so you just have to be extra careful not to melt the nylon braiding. I use it in the XLR ends too. The whole thing is a process but well worth it. And noizetoys is so right about untangling made easy. I believe Van Damme / VDC trading make all their custom looms this way as standard.

 

[Ricardus]

Good to know.

 

[GREAT TIME]

I used some at my studio and it worked great! Metal mesh shield with tech flex on top. And this probably isn’t good practice but I cut it with an old soldering iron tip and a metal ruler

 

[Lawrocker]

I'm probably repeating someone here, but I use tech flex on fan outs, definitely with Mogami because it knots. If you put shrink under the 'grip' of the strain relief on a neutrik connector, you will always regret it. whatever is under it, wire jacket, techflex will slip out and you end up with frayed tech flex on the outside of the boot or exposed copper. Make sure the shrink that goes around the full bundle is long enough to ensure the tech flex will never creep out there either. Tech flex, 1" of clear HS, boot, strip and prep (3/4"), solder connector, the flex should almost butt up to the connector, tighten it well, put a label, shrink the clear over it. I use those 3M rite on things for "2TRK L" or the roll numbers for...numbers. If its more than eight pair, wax lace them in bundles of eight then four. mogami will still tangle if its long enough of a fan out.