I think my new Rode NT1-A can be fake.

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FriedhelmWinter

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Joined
Dec 2, 2022
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Kiyv
Hi, guys!
I'm a rookie in this business, I bought a microphone, planning to change the capsule, but I ran into a problem:

I bought Rode NT1-A, (not from an authorized dealer, but from a retailer, I know, that was stupid, but we don't have a lot of official dealers here), today I disassemble it, I don’t understand why the board is green. Here's the thing: previously I already had another NT1-A (I bought it in 2018 and sold it), and the circuit board inside it was blue and it had the inscription “made in Australia”. It is not on the board of the new microphone. So I bought a fake? Or did they just changed the board? I tested it, sounds about the same as my old one, maybe a little brighter, sharper sound. I have already contacted Rode, but I really hope that you can help me (maybe someone here have the same mic with the same green curcuit board).

Thanks a lot!

UPD:
Got a reply from Rode, everything is fine, I got a real deal. Anyway, thank you all for your answers, it was really helpful!
 

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The colour of the soldermask doesn't say anything.
As far as I see, everything looks the same as the original PCB, even the capsule mount looks the same.
As far as I can tell it's all there too. They just moved the capacitors from the back of the board to the front. Maybe it's a cost saving measure, or just more efficient to build it that way.
 
As far as I can tell it's all there too. They just moved the capacitors from the back of the board to the front. Maybe it's a cost saving measure, or just more efficient to build it that way.
Both, technically - only one reflow process necessary, if all smd components are on the same side (instead of two; or, alternately, no beforehand gluing of the bottom side components necessary).
 
Even with the original C8. (The capacitor that always fails! If you get irregular noise, it is usually C8.)
I actually battled with that same issue on my NT2-A just the other week - that last film capacitor filtering the bias to the front diaphragm went low-resistance (some tens of kohm). Note to self - SMD film caps are not to be trusted (either)... 🤦‍♂️
 
Well, gee, fellers ... they do not look the same to me. A copy could have all the same parts - a good copy would put them in the same places. I am anxious to see what Rode says. James
 
I would NEVER put SMD Film capacitors in any of our products - they far too often fails as described above - the insulation (film) starts to leak dc current -> you measure anything below 10M ...!!! => Dead.

No problems with C0G / N0G SMD capacitors and they will last - as like in forever and still be as good as new ....

Per
 
It is not on the board of the new microphone. So I bought a fake?

The Rode NT-1 is such a cheap and crappy microphone that I don't believe that China would make the effort/investment to make a counterfeit unit of it.
Even counterfeiting needs investment and time, and they normally copy microphones that are expensive from well know brands, like the Neumann U87 for example.
They do some cheaper Dynamic mics, but only from pretty well established and reference models like the Shure SM57,
The Rode NT-1 doesn't fit any of these scenarios.

I higly doubt you have a fake, and I highly doubt that would be counterfeit rode mics
 
The Rode NT-1 is such a cheap and crappy microphone that I don't believe that China would make the effort/investment to make a counterfeit unit of it.
Even counterfeiting needs investment and time, and they normally copy microphones that are expensive from well know brands, like the Neumann U87 for example.
They do some cheaper Dynamic mics, but only from pretty well established and reference models like the Shure SM57,
The Rode NT-1 doesn't fit any of these scenarios.

I higly doubt you have a fake, and I highly doubt that would be counterfeit rode mics
Is it really neccessary to tell the OP he's got "a cheap and crappy microphone"? - how about helping him make it better; that's what this place is supposed to be about . . .

I would agree that at it's price point there's little incentive for anyone to make a fake - but what a way to put it!
 
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The Rode NT-1 is such a cheap and crappy microphone that I don't believe that China would make the effort/investment to make a counterfeit unit of it.
Even counterfeiting needs investment and time, and they normally copy microphones that are expensive from well know brands, like the Neumann U87 for example.
They do some cheaper Dynamic mics, but only from pretty well established and reference models like the Shure SM57,
The Rode NT-1 doesn't fit any of these scenarios.

I higly doubt you have a fake, and I highly doubt that would be counterfeit rode mics
Is it really neccessary to tell the OP he's got "a cheap and crappy microphone"? - how about helping him make it better; that's what this place is supposed to be about . . .

I would agree that at it's price point there's little incentive for anyone to make a fake - but what a way to put it!
Behringer did it, but that's what they seem to be interested in now, making cheap crappy copies of already cheap mics. I agree though I don't see any company in China putting out counterfeit Rode mics, though Rode claims they're out there and allegedly got some from a fulfilled by Amazon seller, though if it's true I can only see the shotgun mics, more expensive Video Mics, and the small diaphragm ones being copied. I can't imagine anyone but Behringer is rushing to copy NT-1As.
 
Is it really neccessary to tell the OP he's got "a cheap and crappy microphone"? - how about helping him make it better;

That's quite a pedantic criticism that no one asked you about.
This is a public forum were people help and give their insights for free to someone else,
sometimes the free advise is not what someone might expect, but the important thing is to tell the truth and be honest.
The Rode NT-1 is a cheap microphone, that's a fact, and in my opinion as a very experienced sound Engineer is a crappy microphone.
The only way of making an NT-1 better is to sell it and buy something better, that's the best help and advise that can be given.

But anyway the OP was not looking to make anything better or modify anything, his question was only concerning a possible fake microphone and that's what my post addressed
 
There are several quite worthwhile ways to improve the NT1; install a better capsule, deaden the body, replace siganl path caps with better ones. None are costly and can make it a very useful mic, especially for someone who can't afford something better at the moment.

You seem to assume everyone around here can afford to "buy something better" - most buy the NT1 for that very reason, no?

There were several ways to express the fact that a fake Rodes was unlikely without telling the guy he bought a cheap and crappy microphone.

By the way nothing I said was 'pedantic' (?) Definition of PEDANTIC
 
There were several ways to express the fact that a fake Rodes was unlikely without telling the guy he bought a cheap and crappy microphone.

There are millions of ways that you could use your time instead of coming to a forum criticizing other members and writing unuseful and irrelevant posts.

The Rode NT-1 is a cheap microphone and it's also a Piece of Crap, there are better mics in the same price range.
 
I suggested ways it could be improved - you just said get rid of it; I leave it to others to decide which post is the more "useful" and "relevant"; the whole point of this place is 'DIY', after all.
https://groupdiy.com/threads/rode-nt1-kit-the-black-one-mods.77086/
If there are better mics in it's price range, how about telling the poor guy what those are.
 
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That recording hacks photo is of a 2013 Rode NT-1. If you are using an NT-1A, it is technically a different model.

I visited the Rode factory during the initial stages of Covid. Even then they were flat out keeping up with demand. They also alluded to bringing more and more of the production in-house. The hand a bunch of automated soldering and circuit testing production lines on the go making Rodecaster Pro PCBs when I was there. PCBs and reels of components in one end, then a stack of tested PCBs ready for final assembly at the other. Any PCBs that failed the automated circuit testing went straight in the bin.
 

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