Iron out the problems

[shabtek]

Allright folks,since imitation flatters four-fifths of the law this is an uplifting story, not too gory,the goodguys win in the end.
The problem

when picked off my doorstep these hooligans rattled like a can of stones.
The solution

I blame society...
The answer


Failure


some leads were down to a few strands on the break-out plate, no biggie...nice looking cores.
p1 83Ω 2H
p2 86Ω 2H
s  2630Ω 

Since this is a story of salvation these boyeez will be reintroduced to society.
Get your sadism elsewhere

 

[emrr]

Jeez, don't go overboard with the potting, Sescom.  Not even potting, glue or bondo or ?

A typical UTC or other vintage with some loose rattles can usually be remelted in the oven at about 220 for half hour to an hour, seal it back up. 

 

[shabtek]

looks like the bottom of the cafeteria table in the can...maybe wrigleys

now I kept heat and mechanical persuasion to a minimum, did not need to fire up the oxy-acetylene...at what temp will I start to dis the mu-can.

 

[CJ]

holy crap! there goes my job security,

first guy does not have a chance they say, now i believe it,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1GGbi80h6Y0    ;D

 

[Dylan W]

I got a pair of these tx from the same member here, one of which has the rattling problem.

Shabtek, it looks like you used hot glue to fix them. Is this the preferred solution over some kind of potting compound?

I also don't have a desoldering tool or heat gun... I was planning to go bit by bit with an iron and bulb. Could I stick them in the oven at say 450F to pop the tops?

Thanks for posting your pictures.

Dylan

 

[shabtek]

if you can test to be sure there are no opens you could attempt to inject a suitable substance through the screw holes --maybe an electronics grade silicone--not regular rtv or whatever eats copper. something viscous and neutral, neutrally viscous, fast and bulbous...

indeed my patch-up used hot glue. I did not get too serious about re attaching the lids, just a few solder tacks-- as I will mount them from the can side. 60-40 will be wet at 450˚F but you will certainly burn your cookies so don't do that. If you gotta open it heat the joint, remove any flowing solder and carefully insert a utility knife blade to separate the can. Fast and bulbous, got me?


http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_lygyPzoGWn0/TTjZXLvYAQI/AAAAAAAABOE/zk-so4qAZBY/s1600/Barack%2BObama%2BTrout%2BMask%2BReplica%2BCaptain%2BBeefheart.jpghttp:// [/img]]http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_lygyPzoGWn0/TTjZXLvYAQI/AAAAAAAABOE/zk-so4qAZBY/s1600/Barack%2BObama%2BTrout%2BMask%2BReplica%2BCaptain%2BBeefheart.jpg [/img]

 

[emrr]

I always vote fast and bulbous. 

 

[Dylan W]

Finally got around to opening my pair up. http://imgur.com/a/xovUn

Iron with big chisel tip @ 900F and a putty knife did the trick.

The screen connection came loose (short black wire), needed to be reattached to the can.

My DCR measurements are similar, 83Ω and 87Ω on the primaries. Secondary won't hold still to let me take a reading... it flashes around on my Fluke meter. Both of the transformers do this. I seem to recall the same thing happening back in April when they arrived, but I got volts out the other end when I hooked them up to the signal generator. I will test them again this week. Is this normal or might I have a shorted winding?

 

[PRR]

> Secondary won't hold still

Try shorting the primary.
Or--
Tack 10K across the winding.

That damps the inductive kick which is foiling the meter.

If you now get 1K-5K, the winding conducts.

If you really care, use math to subtract-off the 10K to get the actual DCR.

 

[CJ]

you can also take the lams out of the coil,

you always get a slightly different reading of the DCR when the lams are installed,

you can also use an old school analog meter like a Simpson,

have not tried the old Heath VTVM, that might work also.

AC voltage readings can also dance around when approaching upper frequencies of a coil