KEL HM-7U mic. How to get inside?

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

chops

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 21, 2015
Messages
59
Location
Vancouver
Anyone been inside a HM-7U? The mic's outer housing shell doesn’t seem to want to clear the pad / low cut switches. Is there a trick?
Thanks!
 
from looking online, looks pretty standard. I would suspect the bottom unscrews. From there the main bulk of the shell should come out by pulling down(do not use force I could be wrong)
From there the grill appears to have screws holding it on that are part of where the capsule mount is attached to.
At least that is how a lot of mics are assembled overseas. so maybe try in that direction?
 
Thanks, but like I was saying, the pad and low cut switches stick out and the tube can't clear them to just slide off...
 
Thanks, but like I was saying, the pad and low cut switches stick out and the tube can't clear them to just slide off...
you'll have to send a photo then. Any photo I found online looks like there is a cut out that basically allows the body to fit around the switch because the top of the body is cut off at those points and not a complete circle.
 
To follow up if anyone ever runs into this issue (or is just curious).

I found an email for Kelly Dueck so figured I'd just ask him. He graciously responded, talked about the HM7U and Song Sparrow a bit (I bought one of those after using the HM7U), and regarding the body removal he said this...

"Unfortunately, the only way to get the body tube off is to wiggle and finesse it off and around the switches."

I finally got around to taking a look. A little bit of knowledge and confidence goes a long way right! Prior I would have said no way I'm getting the body off without breaking the switches. Took a while and didn't force it, but knowing it could be done and after some experminents "wiggling", I can fairly easily and repeatably get the body on and off. Key seems to be to angle the edge of the body right above the switches down and out of the knurled headbasket ring first (at this point the body isn't really touching or putting any pressure on the switches), then you can shift the whole body over enough to clear the switches and remove (having the switches "in" pointing at each other seems to help). The initial finesse does take a little pressure, but not a lot though, it's more the angle off attack. And these are only like 2-4mm movements, which is about the amount of space cutout in the body around the switches. Before sliding the whole body off, any contact pressure between parts should only be between the body, and the underside of the headbasket frame and side of the XLR assembly at the bottom.

And this is for the earlier(?) version with the blue LED dot rather than strip (which I'm guessing doesn't have this issue :^)
 
Back
Top