Laser Engraving For Front Panels

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Hey, I did a search but found nothing, and while we are on the topic of lasers and faceplates.

We are a bit frustrated with the lasers run times. Ours was a stock Ortur at one point, the brains still are and they are not smart.

The machine runs like an old dot matrix printer, if there is not a way to make them run like a CNC does (just go where there is cuts and stay in the cut), I am going to convert ours to g-code.

I know this will create other issues, like laser duty cycle will be nearly 100% now instead of much less, etc.

Anyone have experience here? I know some guys have lasers attached to their CNC... Maybe they can chime in.

-Tony
My laser acts like a cnc when i tell it to. Lightburn software allows you to setup the layer as you see fit. Treat fill groups as one object or individually. Cuts (lines) only follow the path of the cut. If your laser is compatible w the software might be worth checking out. Theres a free trial of it.
 
I have LightBurn I will have to mess with the settings
ive been it run on lines, but not clear an area like a cnc will. I guess I need to mess with more settings.
Set the layer to fill instead of line.. (I think there are 3 or more settings, so far ive used line, image and fill) Just make sure you set the appropriate "resolution" which i would assume to be some factor of the size of the laser. My machine can go up to about 500 lines per inch. which makes for pretty crisp edges.
 
I will give it a whirl today/tonight. Thanks!

I think I am going to "upgrade" our whole laser, although I don't think I will be able (time) to pull it off before we need to rack these ten BA-31's.
I would like to try a higher wattage and different wavelength laser. While doing that, I want to build a whole new frame for the laser, upgrade my stepper motors and power supply for them as well.

Too many projects syndrome.

-Tony
 
I’m using an XTool D1 10 watt laser for panels as well as an air assist and enclosure.

I’m still experimenting with this process but found that using fill and offset fill as much as possible in light burn yields the best results.

The dials in the attached photo were created in Inkscape. Each time I tried exporting them as SVG or DXF and importing into light burn, only the lines of the object imported, making it impossible to burn them as a fill. I settled on taking a screenshot of the dial, importing the screenshot into lightburn, and using the trace tool to create the dials.

This trick worked for this panel but isn’t ideal. If anyone has some pointers on dial/scale creation, let me know :).

Settings used for all graphics on the panel were 100% power and 30mm/minute. I used compressed air to get any excess burnt material off, cleaned the panel with isopropyl alcohol and applied a clear coat before attaching the pots/knobs.
 

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I have an old CNC machine with a bed about A4 size that I bought some years ago with the intention of engraving my own front panels. It has sat in the garage for five years but this thread made me wonder how easy would it be to convert it to laser engraving? Got to be quieter and less messay than mechanical engraving. Any recommended lasers?

Cheers

Ian
 
I have an old CNC machine with a bed about A4 size that I bought some years ago with the intention of engraving my own front panels. It has sat in the garage for five years but this thread made me wonder how easy would it be to convert it to laser engraving? Got to be quieter and less messay than mechanical engraving. Any recommended lasers?

Cheers

Ian
Hi Ian.

I send my panels to a local engraver and don't own a machine myself.
But ..... here is a link to a comment I made about machine vs laser engraving, with pictures.

post #19
https://groupdiy.com/threads/creating-custom-scales-for-front-design-software.78761/#post-1009113
I like the machine engraving much better, but all my local engravers have switched to laser.
 
Hi Ian.

I send my panels to a local engraver and don't own a machine myself.
But ..... here is a link to a comment I made about machine vs laser engraving, with pictures.

post #19
https://groupdiy.com/threads/creating-custom-scales-for-front-design-software.78761/#post-1009113
I like the machine engraving much better, but all my local engravers have switched to laser.
I currently use Schaeffer who offer both machine engraving and UV printing. I find UV printing is much more flexible and a lot cheaper than machine engraving and it looks almost as good as silk screen printing.

But I was just wondering about laser for use at home.

Cheers

Ian
 
I currently use Schaeffer who offer both machine engraving and UV printing. I find UV printing is much more flexible and a lot cheaper than machine engraving and it looks almost as good as silk screen printing.

But I was just wondering about laser for use at home.

Cheers

Ian

Full disclosure, I don’t know much about machine engraving but while going back and forth between buying a laser engraver or CNC router, I came across a few companies that sell routers with a laser attachment.

I can’t speak to the quality of these machines since I haven’t used them but hope this is helpful -

https://www.foxalien.com/
Fox Alien seems to have the most budget friendly laser/CNC combos. Reviews of their products appear to be mixed though.

https://www.nextwavecnc.com/shop/search?keyword=Lase
Next Wave’s CNCs were way out of my price range but they do seem to sell the parts necessary for adding a laser to your existing CNC setup.

There were some others, I’ll edit with more info later today.

Def recommend getting an enclosure and air assist as well if going the laser route.
 
This thread has cleared some things up for me. I was under the impression that laser engraving would be easier and more straightforward than mechanical engraving. Now I don’t think so.
 
I just ordered an Infrared Laser module for my machine which is supposed to be way better at etching metals. You
I’m using an XTool D1 10 watt laser for panels as well as an air assist and enclosure.

I’m still experimenting with this process but found that using fill and offset fill as much as possible in light burn yields the best results.

The dials in the attached photo were created in Inkscape. Each time I tried exporting them as SVG or DXF and importing into light burn, only the lines of the object imported, making it impossible to burn them as a fill. I settled on taking a screenshot of the dial, importing the screenshot into lightburn, and using the trace tool to create the dials.

This trick worked for this panel but isn’t ideal. If anyone has some pointers on dial/scale creation, let me know :).

Settings used for all graphics on the panel were 100% power and 30mm/minute. I used compressed air to get any excess burnt material off, cleaned the panel with isopropyl alcohol and applied a clear coat before attaching the pots/knobs.
Ive done a few panels now and usually do my layouts in photoshop or something else. Light burn has a function to do scales, its just kinda hidden.
 
This thread has cleared some things up for me. I was under the impression that laser engraving would be easier and more straightforward than mechanical engraving. Now I don’t think so.
Just ordered an IR laser module to my setup. Supposed to be way better at handling all sorts of metals (shiny or dull). With CNC, you have bits and things whirring at really high speed. The only thing moving with the laser is the gantry. Its a different flavor for sure, but I didnt have the room or money for a mechanical CNC. Laser has been really easy to use once calibrated and software learning curve was overcome. Also been making neat wooden hand out things for the studio and friends. (bands logo on wooden keychains, studio logo on things, putting studio asset tags on rack gear w a barcode, etching names on tools, the list goes on)
 
I just ordered an Infrared Laser module for my machine which is supposed to be way better at etching metals. You

Ive done a few panels now and usually do my layouts in photoshop or something else. Light burn has a function to do scales, its just kinda hidden.
Nice! I’ve also been eyeing the infrared module Xtool just put out. hope you have success with yours!

I’ve been trying to make various dials from scratch in light burn, think i over complicated the process in my head. Need to finish a 2U panel this month for a frequency shifter, should be a good project to see how they come out.
 
After a chat with an Atomstack engineer, I've just ordered an A5 pro wit the extension frame and an R30 IR laser head.
I'm wondering about honeycombs. They are specified for CO2 lasers. Does it mean they are not compatible with other laser heads?
 
Atomstack has those honeycombs, they work just as well for CO2 as for diode laser, don't see a mechanical reason why not.
Keen on hearing your experiences with the atomstack 5W.
Obviously there are now the lasercutters with 10W laser modules (well 2x 5W ones, and integrated optics) and 20W. Had a bit of option anxiety, I think the 20W combined with air assist is helpful to cut materials I use for woodworking, but it still is twice as expensive, so yeah.

Both of the 10W and 20W laser modules you can get separately as well, and they don't seem to need a lot of control circuitry externally (power and on/off I suppose).
Having worked in fiber optics development, I am very careful around lasers, you really don't need a lot of power to damage your eyes. Long haul transceivers are about 2.5W optical power, and smaller than a cigarette lighter, can easily make you go blind.
 
Atomstack has those honeycombs, they work just as well for CO2 as for diode laser, don't see a mechanical reason why not.
Yes, that's what I thought but I was concerned there mught have been some kind of incompatibility with the very different wavelngth. Atomstack have confirmed I nee not worry.
Keen on hearing your experiences with the atomstack 5W.
Since I ordered the IR head I was not really concerned about the low power of the standard A Pro, but since the R30 head is not available for another 3 weeks, I'll have some time to experiment with the 5W.
Having worked in fiber optics development, I am very careful around lasers, you really don't need a lot of power to damage your eyes.
Yes, I'm aware of this potential danger, but in the end, I don't think it's more dangerous than arc welding, which I do quite regularly. I know laser light is insidious, so I need to be extra cautious.
 
Which one? I'm tempted by the Atomstack R30. They imply it can engrave raw aluminium and white plastic. They say it's available 20th of October...
That is the one i pre ordered. They had $100 off for pre-orders and i think they bumped the release date up to the 15th.
EDIT: In addition, the IR laser is amazing at removing rust and other debris off metal (like coins and such) without damaging the underlying metal too much or at all if you get the power set correctly.
 
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