Mixer Switch lamp replacement
- Thread starter EthanSpaulding
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
Usually the clear plastic cap comes off and then the label and/or inside cap. Then you should see the bulb that you can pull out with a tweezers or small needle nose.
EthanSpaulding
Well-known member
Thanks Kags! Almost had to get out the hammer ;P
Yes,
and sometimes bulbs break and shred into pieces when you are trying to pull them out
Bummer
Without knowing what kind of lamp it is be careful. It could be screw base, bayonet base or possibly a T-Slide. For bayonet base you have to push down and twist or just twist. For T-Slide a needle nose pliers will work but a ‘bulb puller’ is the tool. It can be simulated by using a rubber hose a little smaller than the bulb diameter.
pucho812
Well-known member
Depending on bulb size, I use a bulb extraction tool. It’s not as harsh when using needle nose pliers so the chance to break the bulb is reduced.
EthanSpaulding
Well-known member
Luckily, 30 some bulbs and no explosions. I slid two layers of shrink wrap over my needle nose pliers and it was a treat. I appreciate Kags giving me the run down, I really didn't want to force anything in any way. In the end it was fairly simple. Thanks for jumping in guys!
I do that too when I don’t have the right size bulb puller.
jensenmann
Well-known member
I´m using rubber tubes to pull the bulbs out. Something like this with a diameter that fits: %product-title% kaufen
Brian Roth
Well-known member
Man, this brings back memories. I used to maintain a studio full of MCI tape machines. The VU meters used bi-pin based lamps that were a PITA to replace. We used to have Radio Shack here in the USA and I found an "assortment" of "thick wall" heat shrink tubing. Never shrunk them....found one that worked as a perfect size to take hold and extract and replace. Kept THAT one in one of the MCI audios drawers....away from heat.
Bri
I have always used Canare ‘5C or ‘6S jacket. I have all sizes of jacket saved for other tasks in the studio and elsewhere. Multicore jacket over the ziptie is fantastic for high service loops.
If I do not have, I use a tube of artist tape.
Whatever the lamp is, there is a good LED replacement for it for 99% of instances.
Save your blown lamps in case you need to DIY a replacement using the base.
Mike
If I do not have, I use a tube of artist tape.
Whatever the lamp is, there is a good LED replacement for it for 99% of instances.
Save your blown lamps in case you need to DIY a replacement using the base.
Mike
I have been slowly converting our SSL 4K G+ to LED bulbs. I remove the glass from the metal slide base and solder in a resistor and LED. I have to do groups of switches at a time or the coloring looks odd, but I've found a good match for the center section bulbs. We got tired of changing out 100+ bulbs per year at something like 6 bucks a bulb!
I use this set of tools for replacing lamps. It is meant for EAO switches, but it can be used for other brands too.
https://nl.farnell.com/eao/k61-999-100/switch-tool-kit/dp/618676
https://nl.farnell.com/eao/k61-999-100/switch-tool-kit/dp/618676
Does anyone have a trick to mitigate the narrow beam of a standard LED? NKK sells flat top LED’s with lenses but they are expensive. Is there such a thing as a diffusion lens that fits on a standard LED?
LED, they sell diffused lenses LEDs, kind of a cloudy plastic, but you also need a panel mount arrangement? A retrofit inside of an existing switch can be a piece of white paper.
SSL! Do not replace the centre section FADE bulb with LED because the bulb is part of the timing circuit. Whew! now I can either close or re-purpose that memory slot. There might be a second bulb like that.
Mike
SSL! Do not replace the centre section FADE bulb with LED because the bulb is part of the timing circuit. Whew! now I can either close or re-purpose that memory slot. There might be a second bulb like that.
Mike
Correct - none of the VCA-related bulbs in a 4K (comp in, Auto-fade, etc...) should be LED AFAIK...
