abechap024
Well-known member
Sorry if my last post seemed a little negative. You can do it, go for it! There is no shame in liking a piece of gear if its doing something you like. Best of luck and let us know how it goes.
Modding Behringer T-1951 EQ Ultra-Q
- Thread starter Maliq
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
Thanks so far for your replies.
-I don't have the Trannys yet, i would need to get the Di4000 to rip out the trannys.
-Yes Script, there're a few more 4580 on the Filter section PCB.. might change them if i'll make it to change the 4580 on the Outboard Pcb
- I'll leave the toroidal Transformer where it is.. its fine and doing his job.
- Building a Pulteq EQ is more then out of my range.. I'm happy if i made it to replace One cap.. seriously.
- I got rid of the noise problem with adding the Waves X-Noise behind the "External plugin"..also the noise was not that loud as i can remember, also the huming is gone..its way to low to notice
I have a multimeter but don't know how to meassure, also as far as I heard Tube Equipment is high Voltage and can store voltage up to 12 hours or longer, that means, If i solder one cap, meassure or switch the Box on then Voltage is flowing again. That means i need to wait 12 hours before i can continue my work, otherwise i risk to get struck by a deadly Electric shock!! :-[
Yesterday i twisted around on my solder iron tip..cause it seemed that the tip was a lil bit loose..what happened is that the Solder iron kinda exploded in my hands and i was pretty lucky that nuthing happened to me. It was a cheap solder iron with a way to big tip for doing smd work
Anyway i bough a solder station now, Solder "Honey" and a very fine solderlead (0,5mm)
I checked back into my Behringer Box today and damn those opamps are way smaller then i can remember from my photos. I can see the lil Red dot of glue beneath each Chip..Damn Behringer why the hell you doing this :-X, So yes i need a knife like that and some time and patience of course.. Also I have to be very carefull desoldering those Opamps cause there're resistors very very close to the Chip
I found many 2134 Chips on the net..what puzzles me is the Techical Data about those opamps.. some got a different name behind the 2134, I was looking into the 2134 UA.. Can you guys please confirm that this Opamp will work..I'm scared that i blow up something again
http://www.reichelt.de/ICs-NE-STV-/OPA-2134-UA/3/index.html?;ACTION=3;LA=3;GROUPID=2915;ARTICLE=26823
Opa 2134 (DIP-8 / Temperature -55…125 °C / +/- 36 VDC / V_S +/- 0.7 VDC / 8 MHz
:-\ :-\ :-\ :-\ I wish i could understand it.. the only thing i understand is the Temperature.. but i just need a confirmation that i can order it and use it to replace the 4580..
Sorry its still not easy.. but to me modding means the beginning of everything DIY.. thanks that you bare with me
-I don't have the Trannys yet, i would need to get the Di4000 to rip out the trannys.
-Yes Script, there're a few more 4580 on the Filter section PCB.. might change them if i'll make it to change the 4580 on the Outboard Pcb
- I'll leave the toroidal Transformer where it is.. its fine and doing his job.
- Building a Pulteq EQ is more then out of my range.. I'm happy if i made it to replace One cap.. seriously.
- I got rid of the noise problem with adding the Waves X-Noise behind the "External plugin"..also the noise was not that loud as i can remember, also the huming is gone..its way to low to notice
I have a multimeter but don't know how to meassure, also as far as I heard Tube Equipment is high Voltage and can store voltage up to 12 hours or longer, that means, If i solder one cap, meassure or switch the Box on then Voltage is flowing again. That means i need to wait 12 hours before i can continue my work, otherwise i risk to get struck by a deadly Electric shock!! :-[
Yesterday i twisted around on my solder iron tip..cause it seemed that the tip was a lil bit loose..what happened is that the Solder iron kinda exploded in my hands and i was pretty lucky that nuthing happened to me. It was a cheap solder iron with a way to big tip for doing smd work
Anyway i bough a solder station now, Solder "Honey" and a very fine solderlead (0,5mm)
I checked back into my Behringer Box today and damn those opamps are way smaller then i can remember from my photos. I can see the lil Red dot of glue beneath each Chip..Damn Behringer why the hell you doing this :-X, So yes i need a knife like that and some time and patience of course.. Also I have to be very carefull desoldering those Opamps cause there're resistors very very close to the Chip
I found many 2134 Chips on the net..what puzzles me is the Techical Data about those opamps.. some got a different name behind the 2134, I was looking into the 2134 UA.. Can you guys please confirm that this Opamp will work..I'm scared that i blow up something again
http://www.reichelt.de/ICs-NE-STV-/OPA-2134-UA/3/index.html?;ACTION=3;LA=3;GROUPID=2915;ARTICLE=26823
Opa 2134 (DIP-8 / Temperature -55…125 °C / +/- 36 VDC / V_S +/- 0.7 VDC / 8 MHz
:-\ :-\ :-\ :-\ I wish i could understand it.. the only thing i understand is the Temperature.. but i just need a confirmation that i can order it and use it to replace the 4580..
Sorry its still not easy.. but to me modding means the beginning of everything DIY.. thanks that you bare with me
Thanks Script, i tryed some measuring on some caps laying around..was funny, and i learned something, also about the color code on Resistors, cool.
But right now I'm not ready to measure on "Live" Equipment with Voltage flowing, but as far as measuring..I'll not need it for changing opamps or installing the Trannys I hope, so far.
What about my Question that Tube Gear is way more dangerous to work on because of the High voltage that it can store for a long time? I read alot about it on the net but still I'm puzzled about this, does the Tube itself store electricity pretty long or the whole Circuit? (means all caps, resistors etc)
And what you say about the Opamps I've posted.. the DC Voltage of the OPA 2134 UA that says +/- 36V, does it mean it can operate up to 36V or does the Circuit need to provide 36V so the Opamp will "work" oh damn
I read something on page 1 of the the Schematics near the opamps saying + and - 17V (4580 opamp) ..Welcome to my paranoid thoughts... :
bout the Trannys, I've ordered the Di4000 cause i couldnt wait any longer, there was noone on ebay lately so i blow my voucher now..hope that it all make sense
here is my multimeter by the way
But right now I'm not ready to measure on "Live" Equipment with Voltage flowing, but as far as measuring..I'll not need it for changing opamps or installing the Trannys I hope, so far.
What about my Question that Tube Gear is way more dangerous to work on because of the High voltage that it can store for a long time? I read alot about it on the net but still I'm puzzled about this, does the Tube itself store electricity pretty long or the whole Circuit? (means all caps, resistors etc)
And what you say about the Opamps I've posted.. the DC Voltage of the OPA 2134 UA that says +/- 36V, does it mean it can operate up to 36V or does the Circuit need to provide 36V so the Opamp will "work" oh damn
I read something on page 1 of the the Schematics near the opamps saying + and - 17V (4580 opamp) ..Welcome to my paranoid thoughts... :bout the Trannys, I've ordered the Di4000 cause i couldnt wait any longer, there was noone on ebay lately so i blow my voucher now..hope that it all make sense
here is my multimeter by the way
Caps store charge/voltage. I thought you knew...
Please read the "Basic safety rules" by fellow forum member Gyraf on his website (a bit down the page): http://www.gyraf.dk/gy_pd/g9/g9pd.htm
Now read your 1951 schematic again to check what voltages to expect in the Behringer unit and check the caps on the PCB against the schematic.
Caps store charge. And a high-voltage accidentally discharging into hot solder can be dangerous. So, in general, before you fire up your soldering iron to desolder a cap, make sure it doesn't hold any charge. Easy to find out with a multimeter. If it does, discharged it (using your multimeter).
IC voltage: The answers to your questions are in the datasheet. Please read it again -- carefully. IC datasheets quote minimum and maximum supply voltages. If too high, the IC gets fried.
Slew rate (Flankensteilheit) etc etc you can read about in wikipedia, if you are interested.
You might also want to read some of the META threads of this forum, such as this: META - Useful Information for Newbie DIYers (and others!):
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=349.msg4101#msg4101
Some really great info in the many META threads. Pretty sure that once you start reading them you'll find the answers to many of your questions (asked and unasked) and will come up with many new ones. Welcome to the world of DIY...
I thought you knew... Please read the "Basic safety rules" by fellow forum member Gyraf on his website (a bit down the page): http://www.gyraf.dk/gy_pd/g9/g9pd.htm
Now read your 1951 schematic again to check what voltages to expect in the Behringer unit and check the caps on the PCB against the schematic.
Caps store charge. And a high-voltage accidentally discharging into hot solder can be dangerous. So, in general, before you fire up your soldering iron to desolder a cap, make sure it doesn't hold any charge. Easy to find out with a multimeter. If it does, discharged it (using your multimeter).
IC voltage: The answers to your questions are in the datasheet. Please read it again -- carefully. IC datasheets quote minimum and maximum supply voltages. If too high, the IC gets fried.
Slew rate (Flankensteilheit) etc etc you can read about in wikipedia, if you are interested.
You might also want to read some of the META threads of this forum, such as this: META - Useful Information for Newbie DIYers (and others!):
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=349.msg4101#msg4101
Some really great info in the many META threads. Pretty sure that once you start reading them you'll find the answers to many of your questions (asked and unasked) and will come up with many new ones. Welcome to the world of DIY...
Thanks for all your answers Script, (didnt know u speak german too) anyway, i learned something bout measuring and all that..and i read a lot of stuff.
As far as my progress goes..I got the Di4000, and what can i say.. Does Behringer build there Equipment out of Titan..its insane.. I got a feeling i need a Rocket launcher to get the Trannys out..this is just sick..i tryed to desolder for 2 hours, I'm tyred, exhausted, and feeling kinda numb allready.. I tryed to use a desolder pump, desoler wick, solder honey.. Nothing get those pins out of the holes.. and since each OT got 9 pins, i can not heat them all at the same time.. . I pushed the pins down a bit but the OT is still at its place..it just seems like that I'm pushing the pins into a kinda plastic material on the OT, but nowhere getting near to loose the pins from the PCB. I pulled so much that the pcb almost broke. Damn i should stick to mixing, producing and beeing an Artist really.. mad as Hell now. If some of you got still an idea.. Let me know. I allready got a feeling that i've wasted my 70Eur Voucher to get the di4000.
As far as my progress goes..I got the Di4000, and what can i say.. Does Behringer build there Equipment out of Titan..its insane.. I got a feeling i need a Rocket launcher to get the Trannys out..this is just sick..i tryed to desolder for 2 hours, I'm tyred, exhausted, and feeling kinda numb allready.. I tryed to use a desolder pump, desoler wick, solder honey.. Nothing get those pins out of the holes.. and since each OT got 9 pins, i can not heat them all at the same time..
. I pushed the pins down a bit but the OT is still at its place..it just seems like that I'm pushing the pins into a kinda plastic material on the OT, but nowhere getting near to loose the pins from the PCB. I pulled so much that the pcb almost broke. Damn i should stick to mixing, producing and beeing an Artist really.. mad as Hell now. If some of you got still an idea.. Let me know. I allready got a feeling that i've wasted my 70Eur Voucher to get the di4000.
Update.. I got one..DAMNN, it was alot of pulling the OT up with a screwdriver while heating up the pins, 2 pins on all the OT's that I got seem to be longer then the other 7 pins, that makes it pretty hard to remove the OT from the PCB.. the pins are a lil bit dirty now from all the Heat and all that so i try to clean them carefully later... What a Fight.. 8)
abechap024
Well-known member
:-[ Yes those things are hard to get out, especially with that big ground plane sucking up all the heat. A hot air gun would've made this a lot lot easier
I finally installed the new OT's in my Behringer EQ and I did a blind test on a Clean Beatloop with some instruments in it. The OT's are doing a great job, the whole Sound is more 3D compared to the "Old" Behringer sound, the Low frequency repsonse is way better and something sweet is going on in the Midrange / Low Midrange area. It also seems like that I can push the Tubes harder now wit the Warm/Cold knob without getting a Harsh sound. I'm happy that I did this mod.
A New home for my OT's
A New home for my OT's
Got a Question bout a very very Low humming noise that I can hear when I switch the EQ "IN", it was allready there before my modifications so it got nothing to do with it. The humming is not there when I hit the power switch of the Unit. I only get the humming sound when I switch the EQ to "IN".
Reading of my Waves PAZ Analyzer show a Humming noise at 108Hz (-68db FS on the Master), switched off the master shows -81,7db FS. Any ideas what this could be?
Greetings
Reading of my Waves PAZ Analyzer show a Humming noise at 108Hz (-68db FS on the Master), switched off the master shows -81,7db FS. Any ideas what this could be?
Greetings
