Modifying a Chandle Tube Driver to work on 220v

[lead_coda]

Hello everyone, first-timer here.

I recently moved to the UK and brought my gear with me. I have a couple of pieces that don't take 220v, though, and I was wondering if it's a complex challenge to make them work without having to use an external transformer.

The first I want to try out would be my rackmount Chandler tube driver rev 1 (I'll attach the schematics). I checked the transformer spec, and it is supposed to handle 220v. Is there a possibility of changing a few capacitors and the fuse to make it work?

Thanks for this fantastic community time and help.

Cheers

 

[wlinart]

How it's written right now on the schematic it's already working for 230V. If the primaries of the transformer are in series it's for 230V, in parallel for 115V. Nothing else needs to change in the rest for the circuit.

 

[lead_coda]

Thanks, wlinart for the quick answer I really appreciate it!

I was wondering because, on the unit, it is stated that it's rated for 115 but not 230. So I'll check physically to be sure that they are in series and not parallel.

Cheers

 

[ruffrecords]

Be careful, the schematic may not differentiate between mains input voltages of different countries. However, if the transformer is exactly like the type you posted the datasheet for, then it should be possible to rewire the primaries for 230V. Most manufacturers will make a single PCB that can be configured with links for the mains voltage of the country it is to be sold in so you may just be able to alter these. Can you post a pic of the insides of the unit around the mains transformer?

Cheers

Ian

 

[lead_coda]

Hey Ian, thanks for your answer. The transformer is the PFC 242 in the datasheet, and it's exactly the same model. I took some pics, I could remove the PCB and take also picture underneath, but I'll have to de-solder a few things in the unit for this, so unless I really need to, I'd rather not until I'm sure I can modify it if it needs to! Also clearly the AC cable has clearly been replaced and the soldering is pretty bad, will have to clean this up.

Cheers

Pat

 

[scott2000]

Here's a more clear picture of the transformer windings from the datasheet

http://www.thordarsonmagnetics.com/selectorPages/14-PFC-Series.pdf

 

[wlinart]

Hey Ian, thanks for your answer. The transformer is the PFC 242 in the datasheet, and it's exactly the same model. I took some pics, I could remove the PCB and take also picture underneath, but I'll have to de-solder a few things in the unit for this, so unless I really need to, I'd rather not until I'm sure I can modify it if it needs to! Also clearly the AC cable has clearly been replaced and the soldering is pretty bad, will have to clean this up.

Cheers

Pat

Looks like it was indeed rewired for 115 or 230, but it has the capability of both. In the pictures it's not clear if pin 2 and 4 are connected or if 1 is connected to 4 and 2 to 3. For 230V you need to connect pin 2 and 4

 

[lead_coda]

Looks like it was indeed rewired for 115 or 230, but it has the capability of both. In the pictures it's not clear if pin 2 and 4 are connected or if 1 is connected to 4 and 2 to 3. For 230V you need to connect pin 2 and 4

So I did a continuity test, and pin 1 and 3 are connected together and 2 and 4 are connected together.

 

[wlinart]

So I did a continuity test, and pin 1 and 3 are connected together and 2 and 4 are connected together.

That means it's now wired for 115. Break those connections and connect 2 to 4. And 1 and 3 to the AC input

 

[lead_coda]

That means it's now wired for 115. Break those connections and connect 2 to 4. And 1 and 3 to the AC input

already, 2 to 4 are connected together and 1 to 3, am I missing something?

 

[scott2000]

2&3 should be connected together and 1 & 4 should be connected together for 115v
parallel connection.

Use the dots as indicators..like this Triad example, ignoring the numbers.....

https://www.circuitbread.com/tutorials/how-to-wire-a-transformer-series-versus-parallel

 

[wlinart]

already, 2 to 4 are connected together and 1 to 3, am I missing something?

My mistake, 2 to 4 may stay that way, but break the connection between 1 and 3

 

[ruffrecords]

My mistake, 2 to 4 may stay that way, but break the connection between 1 and 3

Don't forget that the data sheet shows the pins are not in the order 1, 2, 3, 4 but 1, 2, 4, 3

Cheers

Ian

 

[wlinart]

Don't forget that the data sheet shows the pins are not in the order 1, 2, 3, 4 but 1, 2, 4, 3

Cheers

Ian

Right, that's where the confusion stemmed from

 

[lead_coda]

Thanks everyone, for the help, it's really amazing. The video that scott2000 posted was a really good help also. Last question on that matter actually before I start. From what I understand from the transformer datasheet, it is rated at 250mA when in series (which it's what it should be to work on 230v) So I wouldn't have to change the fuse (which is rated also at 250mA). Am I right in my assumption?

Cheers

Pat

 

[lead_coda]

I'm curious about something, so basically, it was already in series (So it should work on 230v already). But it was clearly working on 115v, is that normal? I feel like I'm missing something. Sorry, my knowledge is a bit limited, but I'm trying!

Cheers

Pat

 

[lead_coda]

Ok so I took a picture and circled what is connected together, that will make it a bit clearer I think. Tell me if it makes more sense. This is btw the original configuration that is working on 115V. The positive (Black wire) is connected to the red circled pins (1 and 3) and the neutral (white wire) is connected to the blue circled pins.

Cheers

 

[Tubetec]

Theres links on the pcb which need to be cut , right above where it says 110v , then the tabs in the middle where it says 220v needs a wire link .

 

[scott2000]

Fancy

 

[ruffrecords]

I had a good look at that and I agree with Tubetech 100%

Cheers

ian