AusTex64
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2013
- Messages
- 533
Boards from Drip (packed well, beautifully designed)
Cases for Collective Cases (now correct blue front panels, a happy surprise)
Knobs from Tsyklon.com (also supplied the ribbon cables and pilot lights, nice guy)
Inductors from Vintage Windings (nice guy)
Transformers from Sowter (they mean it when they say two weeks lead time + shipping)
Wire from studiowiring.com (Mogami mini quad mic cable)
Mains transformers from Allied
Tube sockets from TubeDepot.com
Grayhill switches from Digikey (along with a few resistors and caps Mouser was out of)
Electronic parts from Mouser
Sprague Atom caps from Antique Radio Supply
Tubes from my vintage tube connection
Notes:
1. Sixteen 1/2" stainless steel standoffs are in the Mouser cart at $2 each. SS is not necessary and they are too short (IMHO). I used Keystone aluminum 3/4" standoffs instead, gave me good clearance for the transformer wires.
2. I used 4-40 keps nuts on the standoffs instead of the standard nuts in the Mouser cart. Much easier to work with.
3. I used the rotary power switch, I think it looks much more original. Tsyklon will supply the correct knob too if you ask.
4. If you use the blue Bourns pots, the little nub that faces the front of the pot needs to be ground off prior to mounting to the front panel or they won't press squarely against the front panel. I would have done that before mounting them to the PCB had I known.
5. If you're gonna grind off paint to make all the chassis parts ground together, do it before anything is mounted in the chassis.
6. Mark your standoff holes before populating the line amp PCB with parts. I also bought a countersink for the screws, worked great and very clean look.
7. Standoff screws are too long in the Mouser cart and the heads stick up too. I used 4-40 X 3/8" countersunk screws, worked great. The chassis doesn't allow any clearance on the top or bottom, so if screw heads are sticking up they'll scratch adjacent gear in your rack.
8. I used E6000 adhesive to mount the Vintage Windings inductors to the PCB. The wiring code is in the Pultec section of the Drip forum. Thank you fellow Drip builders for posting the Sowter wire color code that allowed me to wire the Vintage Windings inductor.
9. I used 22AWG two conductor shielded wire for the run from the transformer to the front panel power switch, and routed it at the top of the case to keep it as far away as possible from the audio section. Grounded the drain/shield at the transformer end, at the power ground pad right next to the terminals for the power switch.
10. Vintage Telefunken signal tubes and RCA rectifier.
These things sound better than they look, and are DEAD QUIET too. I don't buy it that PTP has any sonic advantage over a properly designed PCB build.
Cases for Collective Cases (now correct blue front panels, a happy surprise)
Knobs from Tsyklon.com (also supplied the ribbon cables and pilot lights, nice guy)
Inductors from Vintage Windings (nice guy)
Transformers from Sowter (they mean it when they say two weeks lead time + shipping)
Wire from studiowiring.com (Mogami mini quad mic cable)
Mains transformers from Allied
Tube sockets from TubeDepot.com
Grayhill switches from Digikey (along with a few resistors and caps Mouser was out of)
Electronic parts from Mouser
Sprague Atom caps from Antique Radio Supply
Tubes from my vintage tube connection
Notes:
1. Sixteen 1/2" stainless steel standoffs are in the Mouser cart at $2 each. SS is not necessary and they are too short (IMHO). I used Keystone aluminum 3/4" standoffs instead, gave me good clearance for the transformer wires.
2. I used 4-40 keps nuts on the standoffs instead of the standard nuts in the Mouser cart. Much easier to work with.
3. I used the rotary power switch, I think it looks much more original. Tsyklon will supply the correct knob too if you ask.
4. If you use the blue Bourns pots, the little nub that faces the front of the pot needs to be ground off prior to mounting to the front panel or they won't press squarely against the front panel. I would have done that before mounting them to the PCB had I known.
5. If you're gonna grind off paint to make all the chassis parts ground together, do it before anything is mounted in the chassis.
6. Mark your standoff holes before populating the line amp PCB with parts. I also bought a countersink for the screws, worked great and very clean look.
7. Standoff screws are too long in the Mouser cart and the heads stick up too. I used 4-40 X 3/8" countersunk screws, worked great. The chassis doesn't allow any clearance on the top or bottom, so if screw heads are sticking up they'll scratch adjacent gear in your rack.
8. I used E6000 adhesive to mount the Vintage Windings inductors to the PCB. The wiring code is in the Pultec section of the Drip forum. Thank you fellow Drip builders for posting the Sowter wire color code that allowed me to wire the Vintage Windings inductor.
9. I used 22AWG two conductor shielded wire for the run from the transformer to the front panel power switch, and routed it at the top of the case to keep it as far away as possible from the audio section. Grounded the drain/shield at the transformer end, at the power ground pad right next to the terminals for the power switch.
10. Vintage Telefunken signal tubes and RCA rectifier.
These things sound better than they look, and are DEAD QUIET too. I don't buy it that PTP has any sonic advantage over a properly designed PCB build.
![Electronics Soldering Iron Kit, [Upgraded] Soldering Iron 110V 90W LCD Digital Portable Soldering Kit 180-480℃(356-896℉), Welding Tool with ON/OFF Switch, Auto-sleep, Thermostatic Design](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41gRDnlyfJS._SL500_.jpg)
