Neumann M49 Clone : Build Thread Puck Style (TLM49 Conversion To M49 b-c)

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Delta Sigma

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Winnipeg
We all do that, most of the info I of stuff have built are from internet. But the good thing about this forum and others is that much of the DIY stuff differes in many ways, therefore it's sometimes assuring to be able to ask people who, presumably, know better than you. If you know the answer, answer it. Why not?
Your point about not answering questions directly is valid in general. Forums are full of strange gatekeeping meant more to build egos than to help. In this case, there are a few things that make this forum different.

Many projects (like those from poctop, Matador) have detailed instructions at the beginning of build threads. Building a microphone can be very difficult and frustrating. After reading all the instructions at the start of the thread, many members are still stuck and come to these threads with questions. These questions and answers are quite helpful for others reading the threads.

The problem, is that when people keep asking questions that have already been answered or the answer could have been found by reading post #1. This makes build threads so long that they are unusable (and frustrates those who answer the same questions over and over).

A good example is the mic troubleshooting sticky that was just started. The intention is to have only posts with basic troubleshooting info/techniques. There are now 14 posts and only two or three are actual tips. It's a brand new thread and it's already becoming unusable.

DIY is a very deep dive; there is lots to learn. The forum helps us all skip many steps but its purpose isn't to help skip all steps.
 

Phrazemaster

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Oct 2, 2006
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Sorry for that, missed it.
There's a certain snobbishness from some members that I apologize on their behalf for, which they will not agree to.

Sometimes when ppl get too knowledgeable it's just irritating for them to reply kindly to simple questions they think you should know, and it's easier to say "go do it yourself" - it would be far better if they just wouldn't respond, as it's rude and it wastes everyone's time. You know who you are.

There is a fine line between being proactive and learning and then asking the community to solve all your problems for you, so in their defense, some cross this line too much and then it is a genuine irritation. I don't think there's a clear answer here; what I do is try my hardest to find the answer on my own, and they if I must, I ask, and even then I've gotten ripped a few times. But it is what it is.

In any case, I'm glad you're here, and I hope you find the answers you are looking for.

Mike
 

Greenie

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Joined
Jan 31, 2005
Messages
129
Location
Norway
5840 so far:
Lead 1 connects to the grid circuit.
Lead 2 connects to the cathode circuit. Just tape off leads 4 and 8 since they are
internally connected to lead 2.
Connect leads 5 and 7 together. This makes the tube a triode. Connect the two leads to the plate circuit.
Connect leads 3 and 6 to the 6.3V filament supply.
 
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amplexus

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Jan 11, 2018
Messages
189
Location
Ontario, Canada
Just received my 3U M7 capsule and after some fiddling to get the height where I wanted it, it's in and sounds excellent in this circuit.

Will hopefully have some time in an upcoming session to get this compared back-to-back with my Peluso P49 (Sadly the OG '50s M49 had to go back to the client 😭)IMG_4847.jpeg IMG_4848.jpeg
 

EarthTone

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Mar 1, 2018
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New York, NY
Just received my 3U M7 capsule and after some fiddling to get the height where I wanted it, it's in and sounds excellent in this circuit.

Will hopefully have some time in an upcoming session to get this compared back-to-back with my Peluso P49 (Sadly the OG '50s M49 had to go back to the client 😭)View attachment 102987 View attachment 102988
Awesome! Looks great. Where did you get your mic body? I am sort of wondering how I will mount mine. I bought a nice looking M49 case this week from ShuaiYin but I don't know if it will come with the acrylic mounting thing you see in Dan's photos. Also, cool to know your 3U capsule sounds good. I'm not sure where I will get an m7 capsule yet. Did you use the 5840 tube?

I was wondering; What heights did you use for the standoff spacers?

Thanks!
 

EarthTone

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Mar 1, 2018
Messages
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New York, NY
I received my m49 mic body from Shuai Yin. It’s different than the one they sent me pictures of, but if’s beautiful and I’m very impressed with the quality of this body. I guess it looks exactly the same as the one from Mic & Mod (I did not buy this from them! I am aware of the darkness that company has with the forum…) But I wanted to ask: I purchased the round PCB’s for this build from Dany. Will the round PCB fit into this body? Seems like it will, right? There’s a standoff spacer hanging down from the top of the body under the capsule mounting base. I just wanted to make sure it’ll work for Dany’s M49 build. Thanks!

Also, are people generally preferring the 5840 C version of this build, or the 6s6b-V tube variation? I feel like I want to just stick with what Dany used for his original build since I know that works with his design. But I’m open to opinions about tube choice and adjustments if tone is improved.

For the 5840, what brand tube is recommended for this build?

I have read a fair amount of this thread but I will read the whole thing before commencing my build, So stoked to make one! I got Dang’s M7 capsule for this build, which I’m sure will be great.
 

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amplexus

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Jan 11, 2018
Messages
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Ontario, Canada
I received my m49 mic body from Shuai Yin. It’s different than the one they sent me pictures of, but if’s beautiful and I’m very impressed with the quality of this body. I guess it looks exactly the same as the one from Mic & Mod (I did not buy this from them! I am aware of the darkness that company has with the forum…) But I wanted to ask: I purchased the round PCB’s for this build from Dany. Will the round PCB fit into this body? Seems like it will, right? There’s a standoff spacer hanging down from the top of the body under the capsule mounting base. I just wanted to make sure it’ll work for Dany’s M49 build. Thanks!

Also, are people generally preferring the 5840 C version of this build, or the 6s6b-V tube variation? I feel like I want to just stick with what Dany used for his original build since I know that works with his design. But I’m open to opinions about tube choice and adjustments if tone is improved.

For the 5840, what brand tube is recommended for this build?

I have read a fair amount of this thread but I will read the whole thing before commencing my build, So stoked to make one! I got Dang’s M7 capsule for this build, which I’m sure will be great.
Ok so I was actually just gonna ask where you got YOUR mic body 😆 Mine was the Chunger one from a while back, I'm not sure if they're still available? They included the binder connection as well which was an awesome deal.

I did use the 5840 for my build. There's no shortage of them and they're cheap enough so you can always grab a bunch and roll em till you get the quietest and best sounding.

Standoffs were I think 5/8" and 3/8" for the bottom and top section respectively. But The heights weren't "perfect" so i might end up tweaking that down the road.
 

EarthTone

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Mar 1, 2018
Messages
79
Location
New York, NY
Ok so I was actually just gonna ask where you got YOUR mic body 😆 Mine was the Chunger one from a while back, I'm not sure if they're still available? They included the binder connection as well which was an awesome deal.

I did use the 5840 for my build. There's no shortage of them and they're cheap enough so you can always grab a bunch and roll em till you get the quietest and best sounding.

Standoffs were I think 5/8" and 3/8" for the bottom and top section respectively. But The heights weren't "perfect" so i might end up tweaking that down the road.
Thanks! Super helpful. Yeah, I looked on Chunger’s site, but it isn’t available right now so I just sourced this one myself! I’ll buy Chunger’s u47 and u67 cases though they still seem to be there. I wish mine had the binder connector but it doesn’t and looks like you can’t switch this style body’s lower section out.

Thanks for the help! I’ll try that spacer setup first.
 

EarthTone

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Mar 1, 2018
Messages
79
Location
New York, NY
I need some help! I have this cool looking m49 body I bought from ShauiYin and I didn't realize the mounting chassis would be like this because the photos they sent me of the body were different than what the one I received looks like. The photos looked like Chunger's body. This one looks like the one from the infamous Mic & Mod which uses a smaller round pcb set than the one I ordered from Dany which is 60mm diameter. Obviously I want to use Dany's PCB set from this thread with it.

Thankfully the mic body is more like 65mm inside or 66mm in some spots, so the round PCB's (60mm) will fit. But I don't know how I am going to mount the circuit internally yet.

The body came with an internal chassis which is only about 55mm inside.

I ordered Dany's M7 with the 58mm mount. Roughly measuring it it should be possible to mount the top capsule PCB onto the lip of the headbasket and have it be pretty centered in the headbasket grille.

But the top lip screws are 65mm apart. I suppose I'd have to use small adapters to make it fit somehow. The XLR base and the bottom of the mic are a screw on affair as opposed to the usual screwed mounting system m49 bodies usually use.

I could also potentially remove the chassis from the XLR base and mount the headbasket to the circuit and use precisely measured standoffs to make sure the bottom of the circuit ends up exactly where it needs to for the XLR base cover to screw onto the bottom of the mic correctly.

Does anyone have a better idea though? That's why I'm posting this with all the pictures... I don't have the PCB's yet, still waiting on delivery, otherwise this might be a little clearer... I want to order any adapters or spacers I'll need though so would be great if someone has some ideas! Thanks!
 

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