Neumann U67 Clone : D-U67 Tube Microphone Build Thread.

Help Support GroupDIY:

poctop

Well-known member
White Market Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2009
Messages
2,263
D-U67 Build Thread

Let's get those Electron flowing.
All of the info: http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=49675.0

The D-U67 Tube Mic

Mic Assembly Tutorial
https://cdn.groupbuilder.com/groupdiy/u/39511/58d1402a0351f.pdf

PSU Assembly and Tips
https://cdn.groupbuilder.com/groupdiy/u/39511/58d1402a03549.pdf


58d1402a0355a.jpg


http:// Check this First: Project Files for The D-U67 Build  :)
https://cdn.groupbuilder.com/groupdiy/u/39511/58d1402a0356c.zip


The Safety Manual and Considerations.
https://cdn.groupbuilder.com/groupdiy/u/39511/58d1402a0357d.pdf

IMPORTANT:
You Should always have the SHLF Jumper in position in the PSU PCB ,  this will ensure that your cable shield is tied at both end of the cable and connect to 0V
you Should Also have the 0V star grounded to your case and then from there to you IEC earth ground ,


For More Information on Grounding
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6y121dasm3iw4ba/Sound_System_Interconnection.pdf?dl=0

Best,
Dan,


D-U67 Mic Parts: http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=83ad963d23
Note: BOM include 56R For R20

D-U67 PSU Parts : http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=b5c122b4d0    
Note: BOM include 560R for R9

OK , here is the briefing

For More Information on Grounding
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6y121dasm3iw4ba/Sound_System_Interconnection.pdf?dl=0

i always have the habit of never float 0V on a PSU i always star ground it to the chassis and then IEC plug , 
about the shield it is imperative at all time that the shield has a path to the chassis as well so it will protect YOU and Your investment. in the mic PCB the shield and 0v are on the same level meaning they are connected togheter and the mouting hole of the pcb are connected to the chassis , this lead to always have the shield protecting you because i ALWAYS star Ground 0V to the power supply case so in all everything always goes to the earth no matter what , So in essence this SHLF is somthing i wanted to implement as a ground lift but it was not done properly and i am glad it turned that way because it is safe this way ,
i guess i am an habit person i always did it like this and never had any problem.

if you have hum problem  you can start floating thing arroundb like the 0V from PSU to in respect to Chassis or the shield but it is very something of last resort and i dont recommend it as it is to me potentially unsafe to do so ,
Hope this helps,  above is a good read about how to properly ground the equipment togheter,

best,
Dan,


Important Note


Update on PSU Power Specification

Problem : R2 is getting way too hot
it has been brought to my attention that the PSU Power Supply (R2) Power was out of tolerance and heating passed its
ratings. this has been very isolated case only.

Do Not Use More than 6VA for the 20V transformer

Explanation: the Hammond transformer in the BOM was specified at 300ma 6VA , some DIYER used higher power supply rating cause a bigger Voltage drop in R2 than anticipated supplying more current to it causing the resistor to get too hot and melt the solder on the pcb. those who have used the Specified Hammond transformer can go ahead and only upgrade R2 for the new higher power resistor if needed. Those who have the old hammond transformer should be ok as it cannot outpout enough power to go past 2W specified, only a resistor upgrade is need in this case.

Solution: After Analysis of the power dissipation required on R2 to provide with the Heater Voltage. it has been found that
new higher power R2 Resistor 22ohm 5W to alleviate this as well and it will run cooler. it is also recommended that R2 and the Zener diode shall be lifted a little bit from the PCB to permit better heat disspipation to run even cooler :[/b]

Now Included in the BOM

Here is the 2 suggested part for R2  5Watt as well updated in the BOM

http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=RWHSE09TU025R0FSvirtualkey58440000virtualkey605-RWHSE09TU025R0FS

or

http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=AC05000002209JAC00virtualkey59420000virtualkey594-AC05W22R00J

Many Thanks To TLRT for catching those potential issues.
Best,
Dan,


The only 2 parts that is not (Europe 230V) compatible is the hammond 20VAC and the PSU pilot Lamp wich is 120V everything else is fine except the fuse will need to be 0.1A instead of a 0.2A for north America, you will need a minimun 6VA traffo for the filament side,
alternative part number are discussed in this thread here :
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=49675.20
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=49675.40



PSU Schematic
https://cdn.groupbuilder.com/groupdiy/u/39511/58d1402a0358d.pdf



Errata Feedback winding polarity  http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=50021.800 reply # 814

AMI T67 Corrected Wiring to main microphone pcb

From transformer board to mic PCB

Pad 5 ----->  mic pcb pad T1212
Pad 12 -------> mic pcb pad T55
Pad 1 --------> mic pcb pad T44
Pad 4 --------> mic pcb pad T11
Pad 7 --------> mic pcb pad T1010
Pad 10 ------> mic pcb Pad T77


58d1402a0359a.jpg




rjuly said:
Here is the correspondance on the pcb pad for the U67 Mic pcb


58d1402a035a6.jpg



AMI sent me the updated schematic with these details below.

The circuit:
imagejpg1_zps7ff60568.jpg


... and the reference image:
imagejpg1_zpsfa3e1910.jpg


Best,
Rich

58d1402a035b4.jpg


:)
yes i got it this morning , cant wait to start a new build with this traffo. i really like my D-EF47 with the BV8 classic series.
let get this bv12 classic series going :)
the 2 black wire are actually shiedling of the core, take those 2 wires to a gnd pad onm the pcb,
Also note that the Blue wire (4) is the +audio out and the White (3) is - audio out

https://cdn.groupbuilder.com/groupdiy/u/39511/58d1402a035c5.pdf
best,
Dan.

See here for complete relationship between pad and transfomer on the AMI mic pcb,
http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=50021.msg720336#msg720336


BOM Annexe
https://cdn.groupbuilder.com/groupdiy/u/39511/58d1402a035d6.doc



Not inclued in the Mouser Bom are:
  • Switches for Switch board.
  • 1X 270pf Styroflex/630V
  • 1X FeedBack Cap (80-160pf) styroflex/630V

Styroflex Capacitor Available Here :http://dl.dropbox.com/u/43869772/U67/Picture%20Tron/orderformDU67.xls


Microphone Body and accessories Available Here :http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=50015.0

Bellow Basic Setup for Different Version , different folks different strokes  8)

I have been working on validating the last details regarding mouting the AMI boards and last fine tuning regarding the Clearance of the track pad in respect to th railing and position,  fit in the mic boady and hole tolerance ,  I am pleased to annonce that all my concerns on this have been validated ,

here some
AMI  or External Board Mounting Hints and clearance railing test,  :)

and Yes this is My favourite Celebration beers the Boddingtons  ;D

58d1402a0360d.jpg


58d1402a0361f.jpg


58d1402a03631.jpg


58d1402a03643.jpg


58d1402a03655.jpg



58d1402a03667.jpg


58d1402a03678.jpg


58d1402a0368a.jpg


58d1402a0369b.jpg


58d1402a036ab.jpg


58d1402a036bd.jpg


58d1402a036ce.jpg


58d1402a036e0.jpg


58d1402a036f2.jpg


58d1402a03706.jpg


58d1402a03713.jpg


58d1402a0373f.jpg


58d1402a03751.jpg



The D-U67 Build

All Of it, 100% original Circuit , No Exception  :) Include Calibration Check Port & Internal LC shift Switch ;)
58d1402a03765.gif

58d1402a03776.jpg


58d1402a03787.jpg


External Transformer Such As Tabfunkenwork AMI T67 PCB shown in Photo Build ,  Ioaudio BV 12 on the left,

PSU thanks To  DanDeurloo
Dan's Case Available here : http://www.collectivecases.com/
or Here: http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=41963.0

58d1402a0379a.jpg

58d1402a037ab.jpg

58d1402a037be.jpg

58d1402a037cf.jpg


58d1402a037e0.jpg

58d1402a037f1.jpg


The Build of the HZ floating Bridge uses all the existing resistor and capacitor leads  ;)

58d1402a03805.jpg


58d1402a03816.jpg


58d1402a03828.jpg


58d1402a03839.jpg


58d1402a0384b.jpg


58d1402a0385e.jpg


58d1402a0386f.jpg


58d1402a03881.jpg


58d1402a03893.jpg


58d1402a038a6.jpg


58d1402a038b7.jpg


58d1402a038d8.jpg


58d1402a03902.jpg


58d1402a0391e.jpg


58d1402a03942.jpg


58d1402a03971.jpg


58d1402a0397e.jpg


58d1402a0398f.jpg


58d1402a039a5.jpg


58d1402a039b2.jpg


58d1402a039c3.jpg


58d1402a039d4.jpg


58d1402a039e6.jpg


58d1402a039f9.jpg


58d1402a03a0a.jpg


58d1402a03a17.jpg


58d1402a03a28.jpg


58d1402a03a3c.jpg


58d1402a03a4d.jpg


58d1402a03a5e.jpg


58d1402a03a70.jpg


58d1402a03a81.jpg


58d1402a03a94.jpg


58d1402a03aa5.jpg


58d1402a03ab7.jpg


58d1402a03ac8.jpg


58d1402a03adb.jpg


58d1402a03ae8.jpg


58d1402a03af9.jpg


58d1402a03b0a.jpg


58d1402a03b1b.jpg


58d1402a03b2f.jpg


58d1402a03b41.jpg


58d1402a03b6f.jpg


58d1402a03b7c.jpg


58d1402a03b89.jpg


58d1402a03b98.jpg


58d1402a03ba9.jpg


58d1402a03bba.jpg


58d1402a03bcb.jpg


58d1402a03bdf.jpg


58d1402a03bec.jpg


58d1402a03bfd.jpg


58d1402a03c0e.jpg


58d1402a03c1f.jpg


58d1402a03c32.jpg


58d1402a03c44.jpg


58d1402a03c55.jpg


58d1402a03c66.jpg


The D-U67 and the D-M269 Share the same  pattern switch , low cut switch, and pad switch wiring. the only difference is for Pattern Swich Pin 1 For A complete switch connection tutorial see here in build Part 2 : http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=51350.0 


58d1402a03c7a.jpg


58d1402a03c8c.jpg


AMI T67 Example.

58d1402a03c9d.jpg


58d1402a03caf.jpg


58d1402a03cc1.jpg


58d1402a03cd6.jpg


58d1402a03ce3.jpg


58d1402a03cf6.jpg


58d1402a03d08.jpg


58d1402a03d1c.jpg


58d1402a03d2e.jpg


58d1402a03d41.jpg


58d1402a03d6d.jpg


58d1402a03d7f.jpg


58d1402a03d8f.jpg


58d02819938f7.jpg

 

Studio Mollan

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 26, 2011
Messages
297
First post! And perhaps the most useless...  :)

http://www.crameda.com/pdf_files/eng/multiswitch/MS-L-E-060915.pdf

If one was willing to go the extra mile and mount these to Chungers u67 will it work electricaly with the circuit? Not sure what current and voltage flows through the pattern switch. It's possible to get custom markings on the thumb wheel so if well mounted they would look pretty nice. Or? I might be in over my head here.. =)


/
Emil
 

HellfireStudios

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 17, 2011
Messages
513
Location
The Sunshine State
Studio Mollan said:
First post! And perhaps the most useless...  :)

http://www.crameda.com/pdf_files/eng/multiswitch/MS-L-E-060915.pdf

If one was willing to go the extra mile and mount these to Chungers u67 will it work electricaly with the circuit? Not sure what current and voltage flows through the pattern switch. It's possible to get custom markings on the thumb wheel so if well mounted they would look pretty nice. Or? I might be in over my head here.. =)


/
Emil

That switch seems very complicated. The switch you would need requires that at least one position is "off." A simple SPDT on-off-on switch would be easier to implement, but I believe Chunger's U-67 body already has the right switches. I hope that helps.

-James-
 

Studio Mollan

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 26, 2011
Messages
297
Of course it's complicated! Even fitting it/them to body is probably close to impossible due to the size of them. Would look cool though, and closer to original Neumann design.
 

poctop

Well-known member
White Market Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2009
Messages
2,263
Studio Mollan said:
Of course it's complicated! Even fitting it/them to body is probably close to impossible due to the size of them. Would look cool though, and closer to original Neumann design.

you would be able to Set "5"-"6" for cardiod mode tough.  ;D ;)
Best
Dany,
 

JessJackson

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2009
Messages
437
Location
Los Angeles
Had the body powder coated almond.

Interested in the above switches or other cosmetic improvements

Need a new grill built the same contour lines as mic body / original 67. Back side of grill to be black wire (like elam). Probably going to go for open weave one layer c12 type. Anyone here messed with different mesh sizes and types on 67/87 types? Even contemplating buying head assembly from sennheiser.

Polish grill holder to chrome.

Need to source touchel connector.

Probably wont stick those flags on there... was just messing around with a pin.

Jessu67powdercoated.JPG
 

Dylan W

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 18, 2012
Messages
262
Location
Boston
JessJackson said:
Had the body powder coated almond.

Interested in the above switches or other cosmetic improvements

Need a new grill built the same contour lines as mic body / original 67. Back side of grill to be black wire (like elam). Probably going to go for open weave one layer c12 type. Anyone here messed with different mesh sizes and types on 67/87 types? Even contemplating buying head assembly from sennheiser.

Polish grill holder to chrome.

Need to source touchel connector.

Probably wont stick those flags on there... was just messing around with a pin.

Jess,

That looks great. I'm planning on getting a powder coating gun to do mine.

Haven't ordered my body yet, think a Binder 7 pin connector will fit?
 

Volume11

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
216
Location
Houston TX.
Hey guys, I just bought some gac7 cable from redco, and a have a couple questions before I start assembling it. Is there a specific color to pin number orientation? I noticed that the blue wire is a thicker gauge. I am also unsure as to what I should do with the shield. I'm having trouble loading some of the build docs on my ipad  :mad:

By the way, that powder coated body looks excellent, I might have to do something similar
 

dmp

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 28, 2009
Messages
3,043
Location
Madison, WI
There should be two thicker wires for the heater
Two thin wires in a twisted pair for the audio
The mogami tube mic cable datasheet is good to look at to get an idea what to use for what
 

poctop

Well-known member
White Market Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2009
Messages
2,263
Volume11 said:
Hey guys, I just bought some gac7 cable from redco, and a have a couple questions before I start assembling it. Is there a specific color to pin number orientation? I noticed that the blue wire is a thicker gauge. I am also unsure as to what I should do with the shield. I'm having trouble loading some of the build docs on my ipad  :mad:

By the way, that powder coated body looks excellent, I might have to do something similar

Hope this helps , Red and Blue Wire are bigger because more current goes trough them so less voltag drop long run ,

in my example the Red is filament and Blue the ground ,

Shield question =
Basically your cable is not using the black wire incsde it uses the shield instead  Just Leave out the black wire inside the cable , and both will connect in position # 3 at both ends,
Note: there is a SHLF jumper on the PSU pcb this is the Starground point of the Shield
So if you cont connect it to the microphone position #3 make sure you have this jumper installed refer to the PsU schematic for details,
Hope that  Helps,

PS: i did not know IStuff could actually have an error  ;D
Dany,
 

Attachments

  • Mic cable.gif
    Mic cable.gif
    10.2 KB · Views: 244

Volume11

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
216
Location
Houston TX.
Thanks Dany, that's everything I needed to know and more. Thanks for the explanation. I get an error when I try to load the build docs. The safety one loads fine every time.
 

poctop

Well-known member
White Market Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2009
Messages
2,263
Volume11 said:
Thanks Dany, that's everything I needed to know and more. Thanks for the explanation. I get an error when I try to load the build docs. The safety one loads fine every time.

You are very Correct to Remind Everyone that this project uses 200VDC, wich is Lethal SO... safety is everything before everything. please Read the Safety Manual.

Dan,

 

mrcase

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 19, 2009
Messages
233
Location
vienna
Hey All!

As already asked in the whitemarket thread, I was wondering which (brand) tubes everyone is using?
Is it really worth to invest in an Telefunken EF806s? see
http://www.gearslutz.com/board/high-end/130060-u67-tube.html

thanks
 

kpearsall

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
250
Location
Los Angeles
www.tubedepot.com you can ask them to select for low noise + microphonics from there. Always great quality from that store.

That's the route I'll be going for my tubes. Going to try the EF86 and EF806. And whatever else I can dig up out of my collection. I don't have any pairs at the moment though, and i'm building two, so I'll have to buy a set somewhere. Beezneez capsule and IOAudio transformer are priority right now though.
 

Sredna

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 19, 2007
Messages
999
Location
Berlin, Germany
Keep in mind that in a microphone circuit the tube is working outside is normal parameters,
most selection/matching is done for "normal" applications (ie preamp stages).

The "selected" tube may or may not work well in your microphone.

Finding a seller who is willing to take back/replace a noisy tube may be practical....
 

kpearsall

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
250
Location
Los Angeles
All good points Sredna. Yea, I wouldn't just "trust" anything. I'm gathering as many tubes, bought and borrowed, as I can to do a listening test with a friend who has two 67's. I'm going to try out the selected ones from that link so I know if it's going to be sufficient or not for future tube mic builds. :)

 

poctop

Well-known member
White Market Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2009
Messages
2,263
kpearsall said:
All good points Sredna. Yea, I wouldn't just "trust" anything. I'm gathering as many tubes, bought and borrowed, as I can to do a listening test with a friend who has two 67's. I'm going to try out the selected ones from that link so I know if it's going to be sufficient or not for future tube mic builds. :)

+1 for the experiment.  ;)
 

Volume11

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
216
Location
Houston TX.
Hey guys, a couple more newbie questions for you.
First, I am a little confused as to where I should hook up the primaries on the 20v transformer. Do they both go to the switch, or one to the switch and the other to neutral, neither of those?

Also, I have holes on the front and back of my psu case, so I was thinking of just putting in two LEDs. Where's a good place to draw power for them from?

 

ktfstudio

Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2008
Messages
24
Location
topanga
Curious about your  "EXCEPTION 1" pic. What am I missing?                                                         
 

Latest posts

Top