Neutrik D Series - metal threaded piece that replaces nuts when mounting??

[Tungstengruvsten]

Was swapping a series of stage lights from Powercon to Powercon True and came across this amazing and simple little metal piece that replaces the 2 nuts you use when mounting anything Neutrik D-series.

Couldn't purchase the piece from the manufacturer or distributor and can't find it online as I don't really know what to call it...

Anyone ever seen one before?  Would be easy to make if not....I'm kinda shocked they haven't caught on more...I build panels for a few PA companies and holy smokes this would make life easier!  Don't really care if it's M3 or 4-40 threaded either can work!

 

[Tungstengruvsten]

Another pic:

 

[abbey road d enfer]

Most (all?) D-series exist with M3 threaded holes.
When they did not exist, I used to enlarge the holes and insert press-fit nuts.
I don't know how well it would go with plastic bodies...

 

[Tungstengruvsten]

Most (all?) D-series exist with M3 threaded holes.
When they did not exist, I used to enlarge the holes and insert press-fit nuts.
I don't know how well it would go with plastic bodies...

I haven't used a D-series with threaded holes in years and I go through thousands every year - typically threaded ones are PCB mount only.  Everything panel mount with solder cups(or pass throughs like USB/BNC/HDMI etc) is just a hole that fits 4-40 or M3.

I typically use nylon or keps nuts but the thing in the picture would make life a lot easier!

 

[abbey road d enfer]

I haven't used a D-series with threaded holes in years and I go through thousands every year - typically threaded ones are PCB mount only. 

https://www.neutrik-france.com/fr/product/nc3mdm3-l-1

 

[emrr]

Cool, I haven't seen one of those. 

 

[buildafriend]

if you reallllllly want it, you might be able to have a friend 3d print it and then cast a mold of that with the tabs inserted in such a way that they can connect to the original lugs. you want low melting point for in case someone solders it since most 3d plastics get soft at under 200 deg C.

 

[Tungstengruvsten]

if you reallllllly want it, you might be able to have a friend 3d print it and then cast a mold of that with the tabs inserted in such a way that they can connect to the original lugs. you want low melting point for in case someone solders it since most 3d plastics get soft at under 200 deg C.

I don't want it so bad that it can fail...but i've thought about that!  I'm just surprised it isn't available anywhere...  Another GDIY fellow sent me a link to a Neutrik 'mounting frame' which is slick but nowhere near as easy as this!

Here's the Neutrik one: https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/mfd

 

[shabtek]

this looks like 2 great ways to avoid the puzzle of installing little hardware in a crowded chassis

thanks!

 

[buildafriend]

I don't want it so bad that it can fail...but i've thought about that!  I'm just surprised it isn't available anywhere...  Another GDIY fellow sent me a link to a Neutrik 'mounting frame' which is slick but nowhere near as easy as this!

Here's the Neutrik one: https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/mfd

I'm confused where failure would come anywhere other than prototyping issues. you could fill a mold with something that has a high melting point. This path would be for someone who has a larger agenda than DIY though.

Thanks for sharing the part!

 

[Tungstengruvsten]

I'm confused where failure would come anywhere other than prototyping issues. you could fill a mold with something that has a high melting point. This path would be for someone who has a larger agenda than DIY though.

Thanks for sharing the part!

Sorry might be a misunderstanding on my part - I thought you meant using 3d printed parts instead of metal.  Lots of times the racks I build go on the road getting used/abused for weeks on end - I need them to be as bulletproof as possible so I wouldn't want plastic in there. 

But maybe you meant print it and mold it...unfortunately I just had time to snap a few pics and try and find them through the manufacturer then that job was over. 

I'm not savvy with molds or the like....but could someone design one using the dimensions from a D-series PDF?    ie: https://www.neutrik-france.com/media/8396/download/nc3mdm3-l-1-2.pdf?v=1

I don't have those chops but the round of the XLR body and it's relation to the mounting holes is there in numbers.  Just a thought!