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The problem with sheet is rolling it to form and getting it inside the mic body while adhesive is in place especially if it’s self adhesive - impossible with contact adhesive. The thinner it is the easier to form but sheet in thin form is super hard to handle. Would be very difficult inside the mic. 1” tape would be the largest - I have 1/4”, 3/4”, 1” and 2” - the 1/4” is fabulous for poking inside cable holes connecting the jack cavity and vol/tone control cavity in a bottom jack guitar, which I try and shield to get total coverage - I smooth that down with a .177 or .25 caliper draw through gun cleaning brush on its cord once the backing is off and the bond started. I leave a length of folded back paper backing inside going backwards to allow drawing off of the backing - tricky but very effective results for single coil pickup gtrs if you’re anal about shielding.With tape you leave the backing on except for a corner which you turn out so to be grabbable with long nosed pliers or a hemastat, then push the tape down with a finger or wooden dowel with a smooth rounded oval end drawing out the backing as you progress down the strip. I made myself smoothing dollies with dowel 3/4”, aluminium rod 1/2” and a fine 4mm rounded tip stainless finishing rod (for corners in guitar pick cavities). Made them all using my angle grinder taped to my workbench. Total cost of dollies was $3 (the ally and stainless rod I got at a scrap metal guy up the road who gave me the offcuts free - the dowel was an offcut from a wardrobe hanger rod which cost $3 - I had to add a hanger in a wardrobe anyway so used the offcut)
The problem with sheet is rolling it to form and getting it inside the mic body while adhesive is in place especially if it’s self adhesive - impossible with contact adhesive. The thinner it is the easier to form but sheet in thin form is super hard to handle. Would be very difficult inside the mic. 1” tape would be the largest - I have 1/4”, 3/4”, 1” and 2” - the 1/4” is fabulous for poking inside cable holes connecting the jack cavity and vol/tone control cavity in a bottom jack guitar, which I try and shield to get total coverage - I smooth that down with a .177 or .25 caliper draw through gun cleaning brush on its cord once the backing is off and the bond started. I leave a length of folded back paper backing inside going backwards to allow drawing off of the backing - tricky but very effective results for single coil pickup gtrs if you’re anal about shielding.
With tape you leave the backing on except for a corner which you turn out so to be grabbable with long nosed pliers or a hemastat, then push the tape down with a finger or wooden dowel with a smooth rounded oval end drawing out the backing as you progress down the strip. I made myself smoothing dollies with dowel 3/4”, aluminium rod 1/2” and a fine 4mm rounded tip stainless finishing rod (for corners in guitar pick cavities). Made them all using my angle grinder taped to my workbench. Total cost of dollies was $3 (the ally and stainless rod I got at a scrap metal guy up the road who gave me the offcuts free - the dowel was an offcut from a wardrobe hanger rod which cost $3 - I had to add a hanger in a wardrobe anyway so used the offcut)
