One-Bottle Preamp

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Hmmm... right, 22 farads would be out of control big for a cap. (!)

Math done correctly (?) my cutoff frequency actually goes down with the increase in resistance. I get 4.8Hz with a 22uf cap and 15k resistor. The original 4.7k resistor and 22uf cap gives 15.4Hz.

So I guess I have got nothing to worry about. Thanks again.
 
I am going to build one of these one bottles on perf but after surfing around the threads and searching (while helping with our newborn..so my eyes are a little tired and not as accurate)..I want to get a transformer..am I correct in thinking 120-0-120 with another 6.3 secondary for heater? Any thought on where I can order one?..I surfed Allied (where I got my LA2A tranny) and the usual suspects but I can't seem to locate one that is correct...can anyone help a sleep deprived brother out? :?

Cheers,
Ray
 
> the tube is drawing 7ma no matter what

Well, probably it is acting like a 285V/7mA= 40K resistor. Not exactly, but near enough for government work. If you short the 15K resistor to give a B+ of 390V, it might then draw 10mA (and be at some risk of overheating); if you raised the 15K to 40K I'd expect maybe 190V and 5mA (and low overload level).

That part is fine.

> with 15k and 22u, the other time with 4.7k and 22u. I used the equation 1/(2pi*CR). The answers were realllly tiny. Like 1.5x10^-6 and 4.8*10^-7.

You have decimal places spilled all over the floor. {EDIT... Stamler beat me....}

6.28 * 15,000 * 0.000,022 = 2.07

1/2.07= 0.48Hz.

We have 120Hz ripple. We want to filter it. All we have is a low-slope filter similar to a treble control.

If a treble control has a 1KHz corner, and we play a pure flute tone at 1KHz, will the treble control reduce it? Hardly at all. The treble control does have effect on cymbals at 5KHz-15KHz. The effect on stuff 10 times the corner frequency is musically significant, but will not make cymbals vanish.

We want the buzz to VANISH. So we invent a treble-cut filter that starts much-much lower than 120Hz. 0.5Hz is much-much lower than 120Hz. About 250 times lower. And as a rough approximation, it makes the buzz 250 times smaller.

> the power tx is center tapped

265VCT is also called 132-0-132. You can ground the center-tap and use two diodes to get 132VAC*1.414= 187VDC. That's great if diodes are costly (they used to be) and you only need 180VDC. But diodes are cheap and you want more voltage. So you "misuse" the transformer, or use it in a way it was not designed. Use the whole 265V winding into a 4-diode bridge, and tape-off the CT wire. Don't connect it to anything or there will be trouble!

(Actually, if you needed both some ~300V and a lot of ~150V, you could use the CT wire; but you don't.)

I said "misuse". The CT tap might have less insulation than the outside ends. If you fool with 2,000VCT transformers, you need to ask the maker (ha!) if the CT needs to be held to a low voltage. But on a little 265V winding, not an issue.
 
Guilty as charged. But whats a factor of ten between friends?
Anyway, thought I'd share some pictures. Be prepared for some really advanced features, like special shock-mounting of the tube as it is supported only by component leads. Also check out wanton inappropriate use of sheet metal screws, holes that are too big, and a special electrical tape transformer mount. I did a real shitty job partly because I was relatively sure it wouldn't work. Much to my surprise, it did. So I will be re doing the thing into a nicer box soon. My one caveat to people trying this out for the first time: pay religious attention to the grounding... do only have signal and case grounds meet at one point back at the psu. Thanks again, Dave! I'm already applying what I've learned from you here to another project... a BC-2B, which I am talking about in another thread...

http://groupdiy.twin-x.com/thumbnails.php?album=134[/i]
 
This thread got buried, but I'm still building. I had a question about grounding. On Pin 1 of the XLR & on the shield of the output TRS, the schematic indicates they should be chassis grounded. So, should they be chassis grounded at the spot--i.e. should I tie pin 1 to the chassis lug of the XLR, & use a metal bushed TRS instead of a nylon bushed one? Should I also tie them to ground at the point in the power supply where the schematic indicates?

I don't always have the best grasp of grounding strategies, & I don't want to screw it up.

Thanks
Tom
 
I did as you describe. XLR-IN pin 1 tied to TRS-OUT ground. That should be sufficient. If not, go for the star ground.
 
One more simple question.
Figuring out how to wire pots from schematics isn't one of my strong points, so I thought I'd ask before acting.

So. Does max resistance=max gain? Or does min resistance=max gain?
I'm thinking the latter, but I don't know.

Thanks
Tom
 
[quote author="hodad"]One more simple question.

So. Does max resistance=max gain? Or does min resistance=max gain?
I'm thinking the latter, but I don't know.
[/quote]

Anybody? Unfortunately the two tube design books I have are really old and make only the barest mention of feedback loops. I'm sure I should be able to suss this out, but I don't trust myself.

I'm getting close, & I want to get this sucker working!
Tom
 
onebottlegaincontrol.png


Max resistance = max gain.

The pot (R11) and series resistor (R12) form the upper leg of a voltage divider. V1A's cathode resistor (R5) forms the lower leg. As the resistance of the upper leg is increased, the negative feedback voltage appearing at V1A cathode is reduced, and gain increases.
 
At long last I've got my two channel one bottle happening. I can't say it's finished yet because one channel has an unacceptable amt. of hum. The other channel sounds great, & the hummy one would do fine as is on loud stuff, but isn't clean enough for vocals yet.
This thing has plenty of gain & from what I can tell from my brief test, sounds pretty damn good! Kudos to Dave on a nice design.

I put up a couple of pics--my layout's pretty sloppy, but I'm showing it anyway.

http://home.att.net/~giuseppe_poteet/onetube_top.jpg

http://home.att.net/~giuseppe_poteet/onetube_guts.jpg

Thanks
Tom
 
:shock:

That's possibly the coolest case I've ever seen! What a great idea! :thumb:

By the way, I managed reduce a plentiful of hum from my two-bottle by moving the PSU out of the rack unit. The unshielded PSU transformer was generating an awful lot of hum.
 
Sweet box! Congrats on getting it up and running.:thumb:

That red B+ wire (I'm assuming that's what it is) running near your gain pots might be the cause of the hum. The white/blue twisted pairs look like your heaters, so that should be ok. Try to get the red wire to only cross the signal-carrying wires at right angles.
 
[quote author="Kingston"]By the way, I managed reduce a plentiful of hum from my two-bottle by moving the PSU out of the rack unit.[/quote]

It should be plenty to have it outside the box (hanging off the back of a rack box). Of course, distance is your best friend.

Hodad - Just put shields over those tubes.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I went in & shortened/rerouted the B+, shortened the wires from XLR to pad, added tube shields. This seemed to help a bit. Switching out tubes made much more of a difference. I know it's not as quiet as it should be, but it's pretty good. Plus, the tube shields I dug up are very stylish.

Tom
 
Hi Folks,
Some pix of my NewYorkDave 2 bottle-2 channel build.
Thank you Dave for generously posting this lovely design. :thumb:
Just in the process of building now.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~lothar/NYDbuild.jpg
http://home.cogeco.ca/~lothar/NYDtopview.jpg
http://home.cogeco.ca/~lothar/NYDturrets.jpg

Waiting for Edcor output iron and in the meanwhile building the power supply.
I'm sure I'll have a few questions as I continue along and I'm counting on you kind souls to help me out :green: :sam:
Cheers,
Freddy
 
that looks real nice.... i was thinking about using those solen's as well, just cuz I hear they're nice.... I really should try different things, but those caps have a pretty good reputation.

looks really similar to how I'm going to try mine, except I'm going for the 1 bottle. great pics, however....

is that power trans. from AES?

thanks for the pictures, really explain a lot to me... especially about diy turret board stuff... along with alk's great page on turret boards, i think i may just feel ready enough to try this thing.

i do have a quick question however.... since the output is unbalanced, would it work well going straight into a gyraf pultec, kind of as a little tube recording channel? That could be a really handy box for me if it would work, and if I could work out a fronpanel solution.

just a thought... thanks again for the pics, and thanks dave for all the work you put in..... since i did your reamp point to point i've really enjoyed breaking away from the 500 piece jigsaw puzzle that is pcb stuff. i think just doing that little tiny reamp circuit was the first time i really learned something while building an electronics project.... plus it works super well.

thanks again

billy
 
thanks enthalpystudios,
the power transformer is a Hammond 369AX. I chose it because it has a 50V tap that I will use for phantom power.

since the output is unbalanced, would it work well going straight into a gyraf pultec, kind of as a little tube recording channel?

Well, mine will be balanced out via edcor iron. But regarding your question....I don't know :oops: :green:
 
Freddy

looks good. I like to use that cap in guitar amp power supplies. A lab member had some fun playing a laney amp that I changed the PS caps to polypros.
 

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