ONKYO TX-DS575

[saxmonster]

So my receiver decided it didn't want to listen to the remote anymore.  The remote is fine as I can see the light coming out of it using the camera on my iPad.  So the remote is fine and I did a full reset on the receiver and still no luck.

I opened the unit up and found a questionable cap(C7002).  it is leaking but not sure if it is in the power path of the remote sensor.  The cap that I read about to change out is (C7008) forums have said that might be the issue but it looks fine and that is the bigger cap right next to the Tower that the remote sensor sits in.  So I was thinking about replacing the sensor (U7001), The cap that I read about (c7008) and also the leaking cap(C7002). 

Here is a link to the service manual if you have any ideas.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hhs7t84rv1hn8mf/onkyo_tx-ds575.pdf?dl=0

 

[saxmonster]

Leaking cap

 

[Khron]

If you have what to replace it with,  replace C7008. Electrolytics (especially such small ones) CAN fail without any outward signs.

C7002 is a "supercap", used as a "backup battery" so the micom (MIcro-COMputer) remembers its settings and whatnot, when the receiver's unplugged.

These are on page 23 of the service manual.

Assuming C7007 is an SMD ceramic, it might be worth checking if it's shorted, or replacing "just in case". I've seen laptops that wouldn't power on due to internally-shorted ceramic caps.

 

[saxmonster]

Thanks Khron,

Ok I will probably go ahead and replace (c7008) then.  I actually might have one in my parts box from all my diy stuff I built over the past couple of years.  The super cap explains why its not keeping the settings I program into it.  So I will replace that then too.

How do I go about finding replacement parts for the part numbers they give?  Nothing is really coming up.

From the manual
Remote sensor = part # 241330  Description = PIC-26043TE2
super cap = part # 3000078 Description = DX-5R5L104

You mentioned replacing C7007 is that only for powering on?  It powers on just fine with the front power switch its only the remote that is not working or should I say the receiver is not receiving the remote messages.

 

[saxmonster]

So I was thinking this for the replacement of the remote sensor

See Below

and this for the super cap

might have to rework the leads a little bit but I can use hot glue to keep the cap in place.

I already have a 100uf cap for (c7008)

just wish I was more confident about the remote sensor.

 

[Khron]

C7007 is in parallel with C7008 - it's just a smaller value and most likely ceramic, so it has a lower impedance at higher frequencies (than the electrolytic).

My thinking was, if that's (nearly) shorting the sensor's supply to ground, the sensor obviously won't work, if it's not powered (properly).

 

[saxmonster]

Thanks Khron,

That makes perfect sense, but I don't see C7007 in the service manual, is it in there and what page, would think it would be near where c7008 is on the list.  I don't see it on any pages, thanks again.



-Scott

 

[Khron]

C7007 is also on page 23, right in-between C7008 and the sensor. Find pin 40 of the micom, and go straight along the "wire" going out from it.

 

[saxmonster]

Thanks Khron,

I found it on page 23 but I meant in the parts list like c7002 and C7008 are on page 9  i think it should be on that page.  I found exact replacements for the super cap the remote señor and cap c7008 just trying to nail down c7007 too.

Thanks
-Scott

 

[Khron]

On page 23 it says "104Z" which should mean 100nF (voltage not really relevant, since it's on that 5v rail).

Judging by what i can see in the parts list, i guess they haven't bothered listing the bazillion tiny 100nF bypass caps which are spread literally all over the place - that would've taken up 3-4 pages on its own

 

[saxmonster]

Thanks again as you can see I am somewhat of a new bee with reading schamatics I think it might be one of the small caps near the remote so hopefully its not a surface mount one, I don't recall seeing any of them when I took the unit apart.  Could be on the other side though.  Might take it apart again tonight and double check where c7007 is and then order everything.   

 

[Khron]

My hunch is that it is indeed an SMD one, most likely an 0805 case (no point in going smaller than that, when there's no space restriction).

 

[saxmonster]

OK I found it on the opposite side of the pcb  Here is a pic


Will this part be a replacement?

http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=188056028&uq=635888265020731807

I might do this part last and do the simple stuff first and see if it work before doing this SMD.  I did one SMD before in Chungers C12 build but I think it might have been a hair bigger.

So here is my parts list.

remote sensor
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=188021889&uq=635888266821231739

C7008 - What is ripple current do I want a higher or lower one,  this one has 117ma another had around 50ma.
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=188024584&uq=635888267601086295

super cap c7002
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=188034502&uq=635888268628076295

 

[Khron]

It was bound to be there

Hint: the links with "DkSearch" in them do NOT point to any particular product page. Have you tried clicking any of them, after posting a reply?

It's not in an essential / high-power position, but might as well go with the higher ripple rating one.

I don't suppose you've probed (with a multimeter) to see whether you ARE getting 5v at the sensor, have you?

 

[saxmonster]

Sorry about the links,  They are working when I click on them.  How can I fix that for you?

Thanks again for all your help I am going to order the parts tonight and will keep you posted after I install them.

 

[PRR]

> They are working when I click on them.

DigiKey either remembers "you", or caches a cookie on your machine. Try the same link on another computer, it probably isn't right.

Another issue is that searches may "expire", however your browser may remember what was displayed.

> How can I fix that for you?

Give the part-number.

DigiKey, Search, 423-1318-ND, will bring up a little-teeny speaker costing $81.99(!!).

The DigiKey numbers should be unique. Manufacturer's part numbers may "echo" other parts from other makers, but with a clue ("this cap") are usually unambiguous.

 

[saxmonster]

So I installed the new super cap and remote sensor.  Everything went pretty easy and now the dam thing doesn't power up.  The standby by light doesn't even come on.  I took everything apart again and double check my soldering and all is ok.  Put it back together and it's still a brick.  On my DMM I see power getting to the main switch and returning back to the power pcb but no clicks or anything it's just a brick now, errrrrr!!!!  Fustrating!!!

 

[Khron]

Is the standby section working as it should? Page 21, lower right.

I'm guessing that's a small transformer, half-wave rectifier (D952) and filter cap (C952), on PCB NAPS-6570.

Then there's a whole bunch of regulators and whatnot, on page 24, mid-right (where the 3-pin cable from the above circuitry comes in, via connector JL961A). You should be getting something around 5.6v at the output of Q931. That seems to go through connector P7001 to the front pcb, where the Micom is.

Are you sure you didn't short anything out there, or soldered something in reverse? Because in case you did, that would explain why/how that 5.6v rail gets pulled low, denying the supply voltage to the Micom, and not even the standby led lighting up. That's D7001, connected to pin 2 of the Micom.

 

[saxmonster]

Thanks again, I will sniff some voltages out when I get home tonight.

 

[Khron]

I might be mistaken, but Dave from EEVblog might be the one that first uttered the first commandment of electronics troubleshooting - "Thou shalt measure voltages" ;D