Please recommend products for pot cleaning & lubrication, EU

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I have rescued heavily oxidized switches in all manner of gear with a soak in a mild citric acid solution, followed by a rinse in demin water and/or IPA. Excercise the switches a bit while soaking. It will only attack the oxides, and is not harmful to anything else. Saved a few of the now unobtainium push-button clusters in the Quad 33, for example.

I shan't get into the K60-quagmire...

Happy tinkering
Viggo
 
I use this KF F2 SPECIAL CONTACTS for pot and switch cleaning: KF WebSite: Product Detail
Have been using it for over 30 years. F2 is hard to come by due to some chemical regulations. It is hard to buy direct from France.
A friend of mine is importing the F2 contact cleaner to Sweden 🙃
 
As said Cyrano previously the best is to unmount the pot/switch (when it's possible, because it's not always the case) and to clean with IPA. Sometimes I even have to use thin sandpaper on very dirty switches contacts.
For carbon pots that it's not possible to unmount I spray a lot of IPA with a syringe and action them from CW to CCW several times.
But I need to have a product to advise to people who don't have the ability to do that, some friends told me about Electrolube EML200f (previously mentioned in this thread), apparently recommended by Geoff Tanner (Aurora Audio)
 
Electrolube EML200f was originally recommended by Neve factory, its in the front of the manual.
Available from Farnell in Europe or Newark in US

highly recommended

Cheers
Alan
 
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Be VERY careful using any kind of vibration or ultrasonic cleaners on any switch that has any fiberglass or phenolic parts in them. They will absorb, swell and render the parts useless. This happens frequently with Neve filter switches. A guy in LA used to brag about his alcohol and cramolin mix to clean API 550A EQs, and destroyed more than you want to count, but only after a year...
 
the de-oxit is good for jacks and switches too, but don't get the "smart nozzle" they leak and break real easy, get the old school spray tube type>

https://www.ebay.com/itm/184549686731
Damn it to be, if I don't have a love hate relationship with CAIG Products!
So many of these electronic fix it in a can wonder sprays are too overly high priced! It's just crazy what type of profits these folks must be taking in for their snake oil recipes!
De-Ox-It products must be one of the highest price of them all! I don't know what they formulate that stuff from? Gold? Platinum? Moondust? Who knows for sure? It doesn't say on the the material data safety sheets either!
The sad fact is that their products do work fairly well. Especially the F100 fader cleaner/lubricant.
I am also one of those that doesn't get paid enough per unit to tear into a machine and remove the pots and faders to disassemble and perform micro surgery on the actual component. Often the pots are in locations that are even hard enough to access and in most instances requires shooting a big bursts of aerosol stream into whatever possible opening within the body of the potentiometer just to get some solution up and inside and working where it needs to go!!
So I often spray a lot of stuff up into chassis. This gets very wasteful and used to really piss me off when more of the product was leaking out of the top of the can and dripping everywhere else except thru where the nozzle was pointed. Add insult to injury was that the many times I wrote to CAIG about the crappy nozzle delivery system, the constant and defensive denial of it being a problem. Acting as if I was trying to cheat or acquire free products or something. Sheesh! I never once suggested reimbursement, I just simply wished for them to acknowledge and do something about the problem ! They still deny the problem but they have also brought back the regular old spray straw type tip and distribute both types.
My other gripe is that the propellant often expires before a greater amount of the liquid snake oil had been dispensed.
I have been mostly trying to avoid CAIG products asy own personal protest. Yet I do in fact keep a couple of cans of the F100 as well as a small jar of the F100 silicon type fader grease . I also have a large dispenser of the red D100 in the squeeze type brass tipped applicator.
I am using these less and I am trying to use more generic sources such as distilled water and various other polar and non polar solvents like Anhydrous IPA , Acetone, Mineral Spirits and various concoctions blended together. I use highly filtered dry compressed air from a high pressurized air vessel (scba life support air tank -regulated down of course).
High grade mineral oil or liquid parrafin as it is called on the other side of the pond works as a anti corrosion protection and light lubrication. For heavier lubrication such as snap switches and pot shafts and sliders I use silicon divers grease. A small fractional part of acetone well diluted in IPA used in a spray bottle works well at cleaning and degreasing many components. Especially spraying out pots (keep acetone well diluted!) Also beware of extreme flamablility) Distilled water in sprayer works well too, follow up with compressed air and let dry overnight .
But yeah I am moving towards more affordable and available homebrewed "solutions" for cleaning vintage electronics on a mass scale, quickly and effectively.
Ask my wife about what happened to her dishwasher!?!?LoL!
 
One tip when flushing out pots is to make sure the shaft faces upwards , that way the solvent doesnt get into the bushing and wash away the lube ,leaving the pot with a poor 'feel' .
I generally try and get scratchy pots back by moving the wiper to and fro before adding a cleaner , over enthusiastic use of solvents can harm certain kinds of pot , I dont know how many times Ive got amps in where someone thought it was a good plan to use WD-40 on pots .
 
One tip when flushing out pots is to make sure the shaft faces upwards , that way the solvent doesnt get into the bushing and wash away the lube ,leaving the pot with a poor 'feel' .
I generally try and get scratchy pots back by moving the wiper to and fro before adding a cleaner , over enthusiastic use of solvents can harm certain kinds of pot , I dont know how many times Ive got amps in where someone thought it was a good plan to use WD-40 on pots .

Funny you should mention that, I just reached for some WD-40 as an emergency lube, I cleaned out an ancient Dolby 43A fader box, one of them was sort of humming when engaged. It seems to have fixed the hum but the contact cleaner I used (CRC Mass Airflow Sensor Cleaner - an automotive product) stripped the lube off and put it as a temporary lube. I have to get something better. Hope WD-40 doesn't damage anything...
 
I buy needle dispensers and fill the bottles with the Caig solutions. This way you can target your area. Most switches and pots have an opening into which you can direct the flow of cleaner. Just a few drops where you want it. If you are worried about loss of lubrication, the 100% products don't contain any
thing that will flush the lube away, but sometimes flushing is necessary and the 5% will provide that.
 
Hi Samplebias ,
Ive been very interested in getting a cat 43a myself , its quite simple inside from what I know , each band has a fader and a transistor buffer , It might just be possible with sub mini pots , to add the controls directly to the cat 22 front panel , of course the front panel of the 362 wont fit unless you drill it but its not required anyway . If you happen to have the 43a schematic you might post it in technical docs .

As far as I know the lube in WD isnt petroleum based so that in itself might be compatible , its the propellant/solvent Id be more worried about , you could fill a bottle cap with WD-40 and wait until the solvent evaporates , then apply .
I often use a cotton bud crushed flat with a pliers to get into fader slots , I use a small amount of isopropyl to wipe down the track ,allow to dry and power back up and test .
 
The main problem with 'contact spray' is that it leaves a sticky residu, that will hold dust and sometimes even makes the problem worse than before after a short time.
I sometimes clean the track of a potentiometer with benzene, this removes all dirt and oil based pollution.
Eventually you could add one drop of oil to the benzene you use, to leave nothing more than a very thin non-sticking film.
But, as mentioned before, the best solution is to just replace the potentiometer!
 

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Funny you should mention that, I just reached for some WD-40 as an emergency lube, I cleaned out an ancient Dolby 43A fader box, one of them was sort of humming when engaged. It seems to have fixed the hum but the contact cleaner I used (CRC Mass Airflow Sensor Cleaner - an automotive product) stripped the lube off and put it as a temporary lube. I have to get something better. Hope WD-40 doesn't damage anything...
Whoa!!! That CrC mass airflow cleaner is some pretty nasty stuff, is it not? I would think the damage that may cause is worse than what you could inflict with WD40???
 
Whoa!!! That CrC mass airflow cleaner is some pretty nasty stuff, is it not? I would think the damage that may cause is worse than what you could inflict with WD40???
I only did two of the faders, it was kind of wreckless I suppose. I'm not hearing much action on the bass fader (far left) it was one of the two I treated. .. but I'm testing finished files with almost zero low end, will test this weekend. It did reduce some of the hum from fader two. The bass treats 80hz and below according to the owners manual. I'm a hack... that's why I'm here to try and learn some things!
 
The service technician I trust recommended Kontakt Tuner 600 for cleaning contacts.. I used this when I cleaned all the cracking tap switches of a Amek Angela II console.. worked great. No more crackling since then.. But used with care and taken out channel strips to get it directly into the switches contacts from the side, not from above where the cap is..
When it‘s about to lube the faders of the console I use Kontakt 701 a vaseline spray.. I open the faders (ALP VCA faders) clean the metal rail with a q-tip using Kontakt 90 (Video head cleaner) to get rid of old sticky lube and then put the vaseline spray onto the q-tip and re-lube the rail..
Tuner 600 also works great for the EQs trimpots .. I also use the vaseline spray with the trimpots after Tuner 600, but here I‘m not so sure as the vaseline is very fine..
Someone with a good recommention for a grease with the right viscosity to put into pots after cleaning?
 
As I recall 71, it was API that told us to use only distilled water on the coductive plastic element on the channel faders, same holds for P & G. This is only for linear motion conductive plastic; not rotary controls!!
By the way the API's were tensioned way too loose I thought they were a crummy fader.
 

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