Quadrant Fader

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Please, for the sake of Philistines like me, what has Unreal Engine got to do with making objects?
I believe it should not be too difficult to model these parts using one of the common 3D design softwares (DSM, Solidworks...) and making them with either a 3D printer or a CNC mill.
Now for mass (?) production, a mould would be de rigueur.
 
Thanks for clarifying Jim, that's what I'd thought too.
I don't know Danny but have emailed with him a few times. I was introduced via a friend and so I just took him at face value.
Again, I'm sorry it went sour for you and Bill.

Ian was obviously right and I, somewhat, incorrect in assuming there was no smoke and mirrors at play.
Apologies to Ian, Squeaky, Wall et al. for me not seeing
 
I'd think the cost of moulds, even if made in Asia, would make that a non starter for DIY use.
Probably cost several $K at the very least.

CNC mill as Abbey suggested seems the way to go for small quantities of a nice, clean, pro looking set of parts, although it could be pricey per (relative I suppose). Still, if ya wants the look, ya pays the price.

Edit: Obviously 3D printing seems the cost effective option but, going by what others have said (I have zero experience with it myself), the parts can be a little on the rough side yes? I dunno how easy that is to clean up
 
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Hey Ian, I think you're having the same issues I've had with the new method of inserting quotes
Your post includes a quote of my post but nada from you 😜
 
Actually, the cost of manufacture is not that high , the parts were designed to be made with a 3 axis cnc (although embellishments either require a second op or fourth axis)

Attach a laser etched label or laser direct on to the anodised body will sort the scale.

Internal parts are SLS 3d printed nylon and work well straight out of the powder.

Only the Knob requires moulding and a latex casting with 2nd Op would probably be fine for most peoples purposes

Jim, we really ought to make these and sell 'em LOL LOL LOL

Bill
 

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Care to enlighten the ignorant?

What's the advantage of such a quadrant fader? Just look and feel?

Cyrano ,

About the only benefit , apart from the look , is the feel : The curve and angle of the knob as the fader is moved does give some position feedback that a linear fader does not.

i.e. it is possible to know roughly where you are in the fade without looking .
 
Jim, keyboard-wizard (not) , is having problems posting (held up for moderation ??? is there a problem with the reply process on the forum?)

so he's asked me to post on his behalf:


Ian thank you for the link that’s exactly what I need

Thank you everybody for your comments.
I will not be making any further postings for the time being.
I don’t believe this is the right place to be discussing the ethics and strategies of business.
As far as I’m concerned this is our design and intellectual property
and we can do anything I like with it. Please correct me if I am wrong .

I will be in touch once the license and platform is in place to allow you to download our files... enjoy

Winston hello again I will send you a PM later today

Regards

Crosstalk
 
bviously 3D printing seems the cost effective option but, going by what others have said (I have zero experience with it myself), the parts can be a little on the rough side yes? I dunno how easy that is to clean up
For a nice finish, you want to use a UV resin printer, not a hot filament type.
 
Cyrano ,

About the only benefit , apart from the look , is the feel : The curve and angle of the knob as the fader is moved does give some position feedback that a linear fader does not.

i.e. it is possible to know roughly where you are in the fade without looking .
Funny. It's the very same explanation old-timers give when explaining their preference for rotary faders.
 
Hey Ian, I think you're having the same issues I've had with the new method of inserting quotes
Your post includes a quote of my post but nada from you 😜
Spot on. I was intending to reply to a post of yours but decided against it. Then I found there is no way to delete a post. Maybe in the myriad of new functions, useful basic stuff like delete got lost.

Cheers

Ian
 
for the knob part an extruded plastic or alu in 1meter to 3meter lengths that could be cut to size I have designed many extrusions. i have solid works and onshape i can knock up a extrusion die. Was the housing cut from alu or is that plastic also? you could have it cnc cut from rod stock peak or nylon.
 
jhulk,

For mass production extrusions are a great way to go , but one thing to be wary of , is that hand loading small parts (sections of extrusion) into cnc machines for the necessary addition operations is expensive (time consuming) .

BTW the yellow knob, shown above, was a little too small and too tall so has been redesigned a couple of times (several times actually!) and is now probably less suitable for extruding.

Interesting idea making the body from PEEK (polyether ether ketone) , the stuff machines beautifully and in a natural colour would look almost like wood . Yeah, a little pricey but would look great.
 
Abbey, I think there was just a communication issue there.
Wall is also wanting to work on a 3D video presentation (that's his area of expertise) which shows Abbey Road Studios as it was in the early '60's. He wants/needs decent models or dimensions of the different parts of the desk and equipment etc. for that. I gave him the desk dimensions in another thread to help him out.
I expect that's what he meant when talking about the fader 3D models.
 
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For a nice finish, you want to use a UV resin printer, not a hot filament type.

You can also put a typical 3D print in an atmosphere of an organic dissolvent to smoothen the wrinkles. Takes some experimentation, of course, but works nicely with some filaments.

Of course, a resin/UV printer has other advantages, as being able to create transparent parts, but usually the size is rather limited, compared to the classic 3D printers.
 
"Of course, a resin/UV printer has other advantages, as being able to create transparent parts, but usually the size is rather limited, compared to the classic 3D printers."

Well that's prescient ! After months of waiting my Elegoo Saturn* has literally just arrived at the door :)

*UV resin printer
 
You can also put a typical 3D print in an atmosphere of an organic dissolvent to smoothen the wrinkles. Takes some experimentation, of course, but works nicely with some filaments.
Yes, it works well with ABS (acetone), for several others, mechanical finish is recommended, but the most common filament today, PLA just cannot be smoothed nicely.
Of course, a resin/UV printer has other advantages, as being able to create transparent parts,
There are transparent filaments available now, athough many are more exactly translucent. However, Prusa managed to produce a reasonably transparent PLA filament, although quite brittle.
The best seems to be transparent PETG.
but usually the size is rather limited, compared to the classic 3D printers.
I did my homework before posting. ;)
The cheapest Creality resin printer (CL60) has a build size of 127x80x160mm (LxWxH).
 
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