Racking Trident 24 modules

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mjrippe

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Instead of ordering expensive switch buttons, just gunna make ‘em out of wood doweling and use a chisel to make the square receiving holes.
Have you used this method before? It seems to me that cutting into the end grain of the wood is more likely to cause it to split. Maybe if you drill a hole close to the right size and then square it off?
 

andYz00m

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Havnt installed the switch caps yet, but making good progress there. I may just glue them on once everything is tested and installed as the tolerances for the size of the caps is very tight.

I got the breakout THAT 1646 output cards today so I decided to hook everything up to my bench supply and test it. IT WORKS. Passing signal correctly to the scope and only pulling about 20mA which is exactly right (~15mA for the Tirdent board and 5mA for the Breakout card.)

Next step is to test a mic and see if the EQ is working properly once the kids go to bed!

Then once I get the mains transformer and the regulator board, I will be able to take this thing to the studio for a proper go.

SHES ALIVE>
 

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andYz00m

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Tested with my bench supply and its a bit noisy but it works!

Mic, line and EQ are all working properly and sound good!

Im going to try and supply with (4) 9V batteries so I can take it to the studio and do a proper test as well as make sure the noise floor is not from the circuit itself.
 

andYz00m

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Alright, power supply is built and working great! I used a Hammond 1182K30 into a little prebuilt regulator board. ~33V ac on the secondaries made it easy peazy to dial in +/-18V. The regulators are designed to handle way more current than this thing draws. (~200mA total)

I didnt even put a power switch on this thing as I didnt feel the need (no tubes and super low current) and I didnt want to run AC to the faceplate through the PCBs. I may still put a SPST on the back of the unit to make testing easier, but dont think it needs it.

I didnt shrink wrap the AC line, I didnt make everything pretty, it just works and sounds great.

Noise on the +/- 18V is about 3mV which is about .02%.

Last thing to do is to paint and label the faceplate and mount the rest of the knobs which I found on alibaba for dirt cheap (good knobs are insanely expensive!). They are nice though, the have a screw in the face of the shaft behind a little cap that tightens the brass shaft making alingment super easy. Nice design. They are very grey though.
 

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Phantasm

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Looks great! This is where I should be with my Raindirk strip but sadly not. What are the little red pcb's up top to the right of the xlr's out of interest?
 

andYz00m

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Yeah they didn’t have XLR but my patchbays are all Longframe ADC bays with TRS barrels on the tails, so this is easier for me anyway. This whole thing is super quiet, I’m impressed.
For the face plate, I’m going to paint the whole thing with enamel spray paint and then hand paint on the labels with paint pens.
 

andYz00m

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Faceplate is done! It looks a little dirty in the photo but its actually pretty awesome with the knobs.

Im waiting on a few more nuts for the pots and then its final assembly time...


IMG_1915.jpeg
 

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nielsk

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andYz00m

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Very nice, it's good to see these getting put to use.
I see this switch cap:
looks like it would work and very cheap
I also see folks using automotive rubber vacuum line cap plugs, seem to work out well (basically what SSL used on the routing switches on the 4/5/6/8K consoles) very cheap on Evilbay or maybe the local parts store?
Nice!! I’ll check those out. Thanks again for all your help and putting the components together so nicely!
 

Phantasm

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Looks amazing Andy! Def need to get back to my Raindirk after I've fixed my other faulty items.
 

pjleavitt

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Seeing this a bit late but I racked up a whole console of these!
 

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