Relay replacement

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pucho812

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Anyone know where I can get a 21d12 relay. Nte?

It’s used in the pad circuit of my gas cooker and between testing and emails with the designer, we suspect one of them as faulty. This is because I get different pad volumes between channels when testing and the rest of the pad circuits parts test ok.
 
I saw those but was not sure if they are a drop in replacement

Here is a photo, it’s the white component surrounded by the fly back diode and the resistors that switch, with orange cap.
 

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Calipers & data sheets may be the only way to go. Find one with similar specs and footprint, hope for the best...

Casey
 
signalflow said:
Calipers & data sheets may be the only way to go. Find one with similar specs and footprint, hope for the best...

Casey


Indeed. The original manufacture discontinued it. So nte is usually a good drop in. But you never know.
 
pucho812 said:
Anyone know where I can get a 21d12 relay. Nte?

It’s used in the pad circuit of my gas cooker and between testing and emails with the designer, we suspect one of them as faulty. This is because I get different pad volumes between channels when testing and the rest of the pad circuits parts test ok.

Can the manufacturer of the unit supply it as a replacement part?
 
You can also use a relay with another footprint and wires ? You can hotglue it on the PCB. Its ugly, but whatever works :)
 
If you know the specs is easy enough to use another relay instead of that one even if the size is not the same.

But I would first take it out of the PCB and test it outside to be really sure that it's faulty
 
Whoops said:
If you know the specs is easy enough to use another relay instead of that one even if the size is not the same.

But I would first take it out of the PCB and test it outside to be really sure that it's faulty

Yes... Since this is a personal project vs a paid gig, I can take my time with this. basically as tested the pad level when engaged is different from ch 1 vs ch 2 by about 10dB. the pad is supposed to be a 15dB pad.  Since booth pads actually switch in and there is a pad in level, I would assume a wrong resistor value  or shorted resistor over a faulty relay but the main point person was pushing for relay.  So we will see in the end.
 
pucho812 said:
Yes... Since this is a personal project vs a paid gig, I can take my time with this. basically as tested the pad level when engaged is different from ch 1 vs ch 2 by about 10dB. the pad is supposed to be a 15dB pad.  Since booth pads actually switch in and there is a pad in level, I would assume a wrong resistor value  or shorted resistor over a faulty relay but the main point person was pushing for relay.  So we will see in the end.
If you are suspicious of a bad relay contact you can jumper across the relay contact and look for a change. If it doesn't change then the relay contact is not the problem.

JR
 
JohnRoberts said:
If you are suspicious of a bad relay contact you can jumper across the relay contact and look for a change. If it doesn't change then the relay contact is not the problem.

JR

good idea.  I'll have to try that. For me it was measuring the output of both channels and noticing that when I hit the pad on channel 1 it would pad say 5dB and if I hit the pad on chanel 2 it would pad 15dB. Since both channels would pad I assume the relay was o.k. as it is a SPST relay and that the problem is elsewhere. But the tech support was leaning on it beaing a relay.

time to test
 
pucho812 said:
Yes... Since this is a personal project vs a paid gig, I can take my time with this. basically as tested the pad level when engaged is different from ch 1 vs ch 2 by about 10dB. the pad is supposed to be a 15dB pad.  Since booth pads actually switch in and there is a pad in level, I would assume a wrong resistor value  or shorted resistor over a faulty relay but the main point person was pushing for relay.  So we will see in the end.

You can also replace the Relay from the good channel to the bad one and see if it fixes, then you will be certain if it's the relay or not
 

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