bruno2000
Well-known member
I also use a cheap USB camera $20 on eBay. Works fine if you have a sturdy base. Not stereoscopic, but workable.
Best,
Bruno2000
Best,
Bruno2000
Replacing SMD elecrolytics
- Thread starter Brian Roth
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
Brian Roth
Well-known member
sodderboy said:
That Aoyue 950 looks interesting! I guess the profile of the tweezer tips allow them to "sneak into" the barely visible solder pads visible on each side of the lytic.....
Bri
maybe mask off the surrounding parts with heavy duty foil and use a simple heat gun to "hit and git" that part off the board,
they are using 3 watt smart phone chips in guitar amps now, 9 pin SMD the size of a pin head, you need a microscope and a special hot air machine, drop the part in the shag carpet and it is gone,
yeah the VOX Mini, read the drama here if you want to feel better about your job,
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=20949
"Hi all,
Been grappling with this one for a while and no success so far.
These little guitar amps are rated at 3W and are quite nice, good sounding busking or bedroom amps.
I have a number of these with blown output chips and thought they would be quite a simple repair!!
On inspection I found that the chips were micro smd 9 ball WLCSP types. They are 1.2mm square and you need a microscope to see them.
Trouble is the type code bears no relevance to anything I can find. No IC manufacturers I've contacted so far have been able to identify the type number 'BP27'.
There are so many of these class D amp devices available with different specs and gains that it's impossible to guess which one would be the correct replacement.
I've tried the Vox forum with no joy either. Schematics are non existent too.
Pity it's not dodgy caps, easy stuff in comparison..."
they are using 3 watt smart phone chips in guitar amps now, 9 pin SMD the size of a pin head, you need a microscope and a special hot air machine, drop the part in the shag carpet and it is gone,
yeah the VOX Mini, read the drama here if you want to feel better about your job,
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=20949
"Hi all,
Been grappling with this one for a while and no success so far.
These little guitar amps are rated at 3W and are quite nice, good sounding busking or bedroom amps.
I have a number of these with blown output chips and thought they would be quite a simple repair!!
On inspection I found that the chips were micro smd 9 ball WLCSP types. They are 1.2mm square and you need a microscope to see them.
Trouble is the type code bears no relevance to anything I can find. No IC manufacturers I've contacted so far have been able to identify the type number 'BP27'.
There are so many of these class D amp devices available with different specs and gains that it's impossible to guess which one would be the correct replacement.
I've tried the Vox forum with no joy either. Schematics are non existent too.
Pity it's not dodgy caps, easy stuff in comparison..."
Yup I use one of those class D chips in my tuner... not only are they tiny, but there is a heat sink pad on the bottom. so hot air is the only way to deal with them. I couldn't even bread board the design without laying out a dedicated PCB to test it.CJ said:maybe mask off the surrounding parts with heavy duty foil and use a simple heat gun to "hit and git" that part off the board,
they are using 3 watt smart phone chips in guitar amps now, 9 pin SMD the size of a pin head, you need a microscope and a special hot air machine, drop the part in the shag carpet and it is gone,
Oh the BGA version even worse.
TI makes a 2.5W TPA2010D1 that fits the bill... 9 pad BGA
The marking doesn't make much sense. The BP-27 gets a hit from alibaba but no data sheet so who knows.
good luck
JR
bruno2000
Well-known member
I quickly looked on my cheap soldering tweezers last weekend, and could not see a brand. I'll look more carefully.....
Best,
Bruno2000
Best,
Bruno2000
Fold up a metal pallet strap to the footprint of the part to be removed and hot air. I have a knock off unit that was like $40 and it works great. W.E.P 858D (China knockoff) hot air stations and they work very well and can be had for little money.
With the proper tip and a good ol' iron I'll typically heat and tombstone the SMD part on one end, and work it back and forth like this until freed. It's like, heat, lift, other side heat lift, eventually it comes free without lifting the pad.
If the landings for the SMD part can be contacted at the same time with an iron, you can literally "brush" the SMD parts away, but this is typically easier with resistors ceramic caps etc. There's a trick using solder wick for smaller ICs.
Tweezers would be ideal for lytic caps I think.
I worked on most of the communications equipment used for the NFL (caps were installed on the pick n place backwards lol), all 32 teams units came in and had caps swapped using the tombstone method above. They didn't want to splurge for techs to have the right tools...
With the proper tip and a good ol' iron I'll typically heat and tombstone the SMD part on one end, and work it back and forth like this until freed. It's like, heat, lift, other side heat lift, eventually it comes free without lifting the pad.
If the landings for the SMD part can be contacted at the same time with an iron, you can literally "brush" the SMD parts away, but this is typically easier with resistors ceramic caps etc. There's a trick using solder wick for smaller ICs.
Tweezers would be ideal for lytic caps I think.
I worked on most of the communications equipment used for the NFL (caps were installed on the pick n place backwards lol), all 32 teams units came in and had caps swapped using the tombstone method above. They didn't want to splurge for techs to have the right tools...
