Silicone to secure condensers

[Dyonight]

Hi,

I recently rebuilt an old 2:90 poweramp from Mesa and I used the first tube of silicone I had handy, which was a bathroom whatever silicone sealant...

Not long ago, I watched a video that told not to use silicone that have a vinegar smell cause they will destroy your components, which the one I used definitely had...

The way I understand it, this silicone is acidic when it's not cured but become ok once cured...

There is no trace of any corrosion anywhere, I'm safe now that's it's dry? (been 2-3 weeks) or should I clean that thing as fast as humanly possible?

Thanks for any insight!

 

[Bo Deadly]

There's 100% pure silicone and then there's everything else. For just about anything regardless of whether it's a Mesa power amp or a bathroom, you almost always want to use 100% pure silicone. It should be totally clear. If it's not or has anything else in it, there's no telling what it will do. But if you're just trying to cushion some filter caps I find it difficult to believe anything would bad would happen regardless.

 

[Dyonight]

Sound reassuring!

Yes it's 100% pure silicone, completely clear.

That being said, it is written on the tube:

"This product releases acetic acid during application and curing. Use in a well ventilated aera"

Which is less reassuring...

I guess that now that it is cured there's no problems... right? ....

 

[Bo Deadly]

Yeah, no worries.

Acetic acid is pretty weak actually. Especially since it's not aqueous in this case so it's action would be limited. And yes, after it's cured it will no longer be acidic.

Although personally I would prefer hot-glue for stabilizing caps.

 

[Dyonight]

Ok I guess I'll leave everything as it is then!

I used hot glue quite a lot in the past but I always had problem removing it when I needed to go back and change something. I heard isopropylic alcool works wonder though. I'll have to try that.

Thanks a lot!

 

[Brian Roth]

I don't recall WHICH silicone I used years ago that didn't emit acetic acid fumes...it was a GE product sold for electronic usage.  If those fumes are somehow contained inside an enclosure, they can contribute to contact corrosion.

Bri

 

[PRR]

If you use silicone caulk, don't wait for a FULL cure, and put 600V on it, it will catch fire and stink.

A hour may not be enough. The breakdown was progressive so I would not trust it for several days.

ShoeGoo (the stinky stuff; they now sell a water-based Goo) has no water and may be safer.

 

[JohnRoberts]

+1 hot melt (glue)

JR

 

[iampoor1]

Ge silicone 2 or Silicon 2+ is the silicon I always use that doesn't cure using acetic acid. Ge Silicon 1 does.

I personally would take the acetic acid silicon off the board..and replace it with silicon 2. Not worth any potential issues. But that's just me, I can't quote a study or hard data one way or the other.