Simple PCB Standoff question

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MikeFFG

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 15, 2009
Messages
77
This is a REALLY dumb question I'm sure, but I can't find the answer anywhere.  Are the PCB standoffs in projects typically connected through a hole drilled in the bottom of the case?  I've seen adhesive types but I imagine those aren't as stable.  I'm sure there has to be holes in the bottom of the case, but no one shows pictures of the bottom of them so it's hard to tel!
 
So many ways....

Before I had a countersink bit for my drill I would decide based on whether the case was the full 1RU high or if it had some clearance. The ones with clearance got bolted down standoffs, the flush ones adhesive/JB-weld/something-or-other.

With a countersink bit it's easy to make flat boltheads sit flush with the bottom. I just use the bolts and plastic washers or scavenged rigid plastic tubing.

Best of luck with whatever solution you elect.
 
MikeFFG said:
This is a REALLY dumb question I'm sure, but I can't find the answer anywhere.  Are the PCB standoffs in projects typically connected through a hole drilled in the bottom of the case?  I've seen adhesive types but I imagine those aren't as stable.  I'm sure there has to be holes in the bottom of the case, but no one shows pictures of the bottom of them so it's hard to tell!

Look for what's called PEM nut.

-a
 
Thanks guys, between the two answers I definitely will be able to figure it out.
 
i think the simple answer is yes.holes in the bottom.
personally i wouldnt use the double stick tape type.
some mass produced cases have standoffs attached seamlessly  to them in production. not sure how this is acheived.
 
Those sticker standoffs are great. I don't get why people say they suck. Maybe they haven't tried them, or got bad ones.
They are impossible to remove when stuck, and with time they seem to melt into the case lids, making them even harder to remove.
But yeah, it looks neither good or reliable.
 
I have had good luck with self sticking adhesives.  You can also throw up a good gob of Epoxy and put your standoffs on that.  It adheres nicely to most metals that I have used.  A bit of a stomp box maneuver.

Whenever I have used drilled holes in the bottom I haven't had a counter sink and it always ends up being just a little too big for the rack or whatever.

CC
 
I use aluminum standoff's and place the pcb on the bottom and use a centering hole and make the drill centering mark. I drill with a slightly oversized drill bit and use round top hex 4-40" screws underneath. It's not a issue because of the hight difference of the par Metal and Tat cases I've used.
 
That seems to be the best way of doing it when using screws or standoffs.

kazper said:
I use aluminum standoff's and place the pcb on the bottom and use a centering hole and make the drill centering mark. I drill with a slightly oversized drill bit and use round top hex 4-40" screws underneath. It's not a issue because of the hight difference of the par Metal and Tat cases I've used.
 
chrion "
Those sticker standoffs are great. I don't get why people say they suck. Maybe they haven't tried them, or got bad ones"
i admit it. i have never used double sided tape standoffs.
 
I use captive studs. I put a slight countersink in the hole so the stud grabs easier.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#captive-studs/=71m4u4
I know it says press fit but if you use hex standoffs, they will draw in no problem.
 
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