Special tool or technique for dual knob

[audiomaticmastering]

Sorry if this has been covered here before. Is there a special tool or a trick to removing the lower part of this dual knob? It is on an Amek BC2. I've tried standard ratchets and nut drivers, the correct size is too thick to fit into the plastic. I've also tried forceps and tweezers a broad round tip, but those are too flimsy to break the nut loose. Nothing seems to be both small enough and generate the needed torque. Pic attached. Thanks!

 

[Tubetec]

Sometimes the lower part of a dual control has a keyed section that allows it up and off the shaft , try both shafts top dead centre and the lower section should come off almost without effort .

I have a BC3 with the same dual concentric pots on the auxes but I never needed to remove one so far , now its not to hand so I cant check .
If it does turn out you need the nut removed perhaps a chainsaw combination spanner could be honed with a file down to the point it fits .
If not Sifam do a collet knob special tool ,
Colin at Audio maintenance limited might have them , depending on which side of the water your on .

 

[Brian Roth]

Perhaps duck bill pliers? Random example found via a quick web search (there are many varieties):

https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-3301160-Duck-Bill-Pliers/dp/B003RWS9G0

Bri

 

[MidnightArrakis]

Similar to, but different than, the suggestion made by "Good Ol' Brian Roth".....I would have instinctively reached for a pair of "Needle-Nosed Pliers" without even thinking about it!!! Like these:



And.....the pair of these are about 1/5th the price of what Brian had suggested!!!

https://www.amazon.com/WORKPRO-2-Piece-Comfort-Wrapping-Supplies/dp/B0B8SLXJ5P/ref=sr_1_9?crid=3O180W6SDX2XZ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.hcT1KnoWpc51rzqhf4Rs-JGB7Qi3pQH41ppFiCVB0TUtT7fDwU1lQF_Q11vYJf_mj-og3rAw6RMDrUxVCtoMalgowyVnuFr59IWgL0WfBUM76gduCRVtcM_p055SXk8YlrU2isSFuGlvaXTti1nUmd2F5tzG6405ud7dc5n6n64OUEXyujnhbiIDHNJoB7Q-FH88J-JyReoAJzHOzHHbN6gE9pmG3b_0bQVOmWk50Xjzd56v6hRR9OyFXAvjSg5lRl6lerLDqYDrxeMmTxjzvMF7axmrBAiK_nJEaxJitBA.7-MgSyTf3AneohdOLi3icHyU0U5GpmX4cwkWJLXqjnY&dib_tag=se&keywords=needle+nose+pliers&qid=1720754603&sprefix=needle,aps,81&sr=8-9

>> NOTE FOR BRIAN: https://groupdiy.com/threads/audio-...nsformers-detroit-michigan.81192/post-1158499

/

 

[Brian Roth]

I picked the Knipex pliers from this listing:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=duck+bil...fix=duck+bill+pliers,aps,129&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

Knipex is a quality brand of pliers made in Germany. The others on that page....likely made from recycled beer cans in LoQual China <g>.

https://www.knipex.com/

Bri

 

[Rob Flinn]

File or grind down the outside diameter of a nut spinner, or if you have a suitable lathe turn it down. I have a couple of these, they work well.

 

[Tubetec]

If you dont have a lathe , you might be able to chuck the socket up in a drill and grind the edge with a file , polish it up after up with emery paper .

 

[ruffrecords]

I don't think I have ever seen a dual concentric pot where the lower knob has a nut. Any idea who these are made by?

Cheers

Ian

 

[Tubetec]

I think Matt will know for certain but they look like Sifam ,

Just found quite an interesting selection of pots here ,
https://radiowebshop.com/contents/en-uk/d2_02.html

 

[Disco Volante]

I'd say a "pipe socket" would be the thing here. Not sure of the correct English term though. They're rather crude mostly, it looks like they're made by hammering a piece of round pipe over a nut. They generally have the thin sleeve that you're after.
Being the fortunate owner of a lathe, I'd second Rob Flinn's approach!

HTH
Cheers, V!

 

[S.Samuelsson]

Hi.

File or grind down the outside diameter of a nut spinner, or if you have a suitable lathe turn it down. I have a couple of these, they work well.

^This is IMO/IME the correct answer, short of purchasing the socket from the manufacturer for a ...load of money.
Anything else is just a hack-job.

A pipe socket Disco Volante mentioned would also work, but making one is a real PITA as the pipe standards aren't usually compatible with the socket standards, so the pipe/tube would have to be made first.
And then the former to swage the pipe over, and then finished with a grinder.

Grinding or filing down a cheap socket is only a ~10 minute job.
Outsourcing it shouldn't cost much either, a beer perhaps?
There has to be someone with a lathe or an angle grinder and the necessary skills to use one nearby.

Regards,
Sam

 

[TwentyTrees]

I'd say a "pipe socket" would be the thing here. Not sure of the correct English term though. They're rather crude mostly, it looks like they're made by hammering a piece of round pipe over a nut. They generally have the thin sleeve that you're after.
Being the fortunate owner of a lathe, I'd second Rob Flinn's approach!

HTH
Cheers, V!

This - plumber's tap spanner of the right gauge would be my next step if I couldn't get needle nose pliers to work.

 

[Tubetec]

Theres a small socket set they describe as thin wall ,

 

[13engrsapper]

A thinwall deep-well socket usually does the trick. Look at brands that are known for fitting in tight places like SNAP-ON here in the states. I can check to see if any of my WIHA sockets fit, they are probably easier to get if you are in EU etc.

 

[ruffrecords]

I'd say a "pipe socket" would be the thing here. Not sure of the correct English term though. They're rather crude mostly, it looks like they're made by hammering a piece of round pipe over a nut. They generally have the thin sleeve that you're after.
Being the fortunate owner of a lathe, I'd second Rob Flinn's approach!

HTH
Cheers, V!

Box spanner;

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=box+sp...81800db35&tag=mh0a9-21&ref=pd_sl_5153wiatg2_e

Cheers

Ian

 

[Tubetec]

Theres a place near me that deals in army surplus tools ,
they have a lot of very small nut drivers , with what looks like a preset torque adjustment built in , I think they also have the thin sided deep impact sockets available seperately ,


What size are the nuts on the Amek concentric dials ?

 

[13engrsapper]

NOT TO GET SIDETRACKED BUT... I get a little ummm bothered as a guy that prides himself on building quality equipment, and doing quality repair work when someones suggestion is to get the cheap version of it instead. I have the Duckbills that Brian suggested, wicked riged and they get into everywhere. I would still lean toward a socket, even if it meant sacrificing one to the grinder to make it thinner, although Brian is likely correct in a small duckbill coiuld do it. The problem with those old Sifams etc. as they get older they do get a bit more fragile. It is easy to crack the thin walled top part..

---

KNIPEX ROCK! I have a little personal experience there. The Ideal Tek from Switzerland are nice too. Quality Steels, and proper hardening where and when they need to be. They stand up to the humidty of coastal South Carolina like nothing I have ever seen, and stay sharp forever and a half (the ones that need be). Compfortable in hand all day every day.

Be kind to a company that deserves it, stay away from the cheap Chinese clones if you can afford it. Especially ones that are outright stealing, and thus decieving consumers into thinking they are buying a quality German brand. The Knipex are made in Germany and are TOP quality and will last you a lifetime. I love the one that cts the end off leads on through holes, and bends/crimps it so it will not fall out.

Hang Zhou Great Star Industrial Co.,LTD (CHINA) makes the cheap RIPOFF CLONES. STAY AWAY - not the kind of company I would want to support by giving them ANY of my money. You can DIY without supporting them or companies like that. $5 bucks says you can find a nice set of USED Knipex on eBay, that will be worth as much when you decide you no longer need them. Good luck with your used Hang Zhou Great Star Industrial Co.,LTD "pliers." I'm sure their sister companies (Hank Chou Big Star Industrial Co.,LTD) $19.00 stomp box works/sounds as good as the ones they clone too. (that is sarcasm). Sorry, somthing touched a nerve while I am on my second pot of coffee.



-T