THIS TIME I REALLY FIXED IT! :) - Need help with Focal Solo6 Be repair?

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chilidawg

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Actually, the via for the resistor is underneath the 22uF/35V capacitor, so the wire can't poke through.
 

Khron

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Ah, fair enough then. Still, i'd kinda prefer avoiding wires "flapping around in the breeze", sort of out of principle (y)
 

chilidawg

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The old principle don't fix what's not broken still applies?

If I wanna go the extra length, I could probably tack it on the board with a drop off non-acidic, non-conductive silicone glue.

But for now, the monitor is working nicely. Had both of them connected to my phone headphones out and I was listening to some music. Also recorded a short demo video but it has too much background noise from across the street (my neighbor is installing a steel fence and awning, so the workers are grinding a lot)

Well, I gotta admit, they did sound great, despite the cheapish construction and the low-quality PCB.

Anyway, thanks for all the help.
 

chilidawg

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Khron, just to let you know that I shortened the jumper wire (and also saw what my solder tip has done previously to that yellow box film capacitor, ahahaha, oops! if I have 220nF in my bin, I would have replaced it too)
Wire is now flat on the board, but not touching any components at all. Cleaned up the dirty flux as well..

Since then, I haven't turned it off. I'm abusing it and pushing it to the limit, just to see if it is going to crap out at some point, but so far so good, even thermal wise. First time trying this HY410 thermal paste.

Video has 10s of copyright audio material, since I was playing some random songs on YouTube. If we're not allowed to have that kind of content here, feel free to remove it.
 

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chilidawg

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Btw guys, just a quick question.

This is the main fuse they use for this monitor. In case someday it blew up and I will have to replace it, do you know what type of fuse it is? I can't tell just by looking at it. I think it's a slow blow type, but I could be wrong, because most of the slow blow fuse that I see being sold in this country has a twisted wire inside the container, unlike this one.

IMG20220923181958.jpg
 

Khron

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Read the markings on the end-cap.

[current rating] A [letter] [voltage rating]

The "letter" may be "F" for "fast", or "T" for "time delay", or just missing, for whatever qualifies as "normal".
 

chilidawg

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Nov 27, 2013
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Thanks, had to Google'd about fuse, and what T1.6A L meant, confirmed it's a time delay slow breaking fuse.

Hard to find that kind of fuse here. I guess I will have to tell my friend to order up some from Aliexpress to keep as spares.
 
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ccaudle

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Mar 18, 2010
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Hard to find that kind of fuse here.

Where are you located? That is a very common type of fuse which has been used for many decades. They come in different diameters and lengths, so you need to know the physical dimensions as well as the current rating, but any electronics distributor will have them, and even most hardware stores, at least in North America.
 

chilidawg

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All I could find locally is a ceramic version for this size, same amperage and voltage rating.
Seller claimed it's a Littelfuse time delay slow blow fuse. Ordered a few and will test them to see if they'll work.
For a glass version, in this size, only fast acting fuse apparently.

Red color radial fuse however, is a different story. I can get plenty of time delay slow blow radial fuse, so I was thinking if someday this glass fuse blew up, and there's no direct replacement to go in the IEC fuse cartridge slot, I will have to do a bit of modification to make it work.
 
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