UA 176 lower circuit board

[VertigoRecording]

Hello everyone. I would like to purchase a lower circuit board to repair an original UA176 compressor that I am working on. Do anyone have one to sell? I think I started a conversation with Rainton, who was making these boards and complete UA 176 kits. Any help would be most appreciated. The original board is so baked that is has become a resistor near the 12BH7 tube. Don't ask how long it took to come to that conclusion......hahahah. Thanks in advance! - Charlie

 

[Whoops]

The original board is so baked that is has become a resistor near the 12BH7 tube. Don't ask how long it took to come to that conclusion......hahahah. Thanks in advance! - Charlie

Can you Dip it in varnish so it becomes insulated?

Or maybe do a new board with Turrets in case you don't find a replacement

 

[VertigoRecording]

Can you Dip it in varnish so it becomes insulated?

Or maybe do a new board with Turrets in case you don't find a replacement

Thanks for your reply. The varnish idea would not work in this case as the board itself has become resistive. I tried to grind some of it away, hoping to eliminate the "resistor" but it is pretty well baked into the entire board. I suppose I could make one out of turrent board or perf board but I was hoping someone (member Rainton) would still have some for sale.

 

[andYz00m]

If someone is making full kits or PCB of 176, I would buy one for sure.

 

[Whoops]

Thanks for your reply. The varnish idea would not work in this case as the board itself has become resistive. I tried to grind some of it away, hoping to eliminate the "resistor" but it is pretty well baked into the entire board. I suppose I could make one out of turrent board or perf board but I was hoping someone (member Rainton) would still have some for sale.,

I see,
you could also take the components out of that PCB, scan it, and home etch a new PCB with the same exact tracings and layout

 

[VertigoRecording]

If someone is making full kits or PCB of 176, I would buy one for sure.

The Lab member "Rainton" was offering complete kits, not that long ago. I tried to contact him but I'm not sure I'm doing that correctly. I have not gotten a response.

 

[VertigoRecording]

I see,
you could also take the components out of that PCB, scan it, and home etch a new PCB with the same exact tracings and layout

Unfortunately, it does not belong to me and that would be a bit ambitious and a lot costly. But......the unit is worth a lot and does sound amazing when it is working properly. I'm still holding out for an existing board. Thanks for thinking about things.

 

[JMan]

The user rainton is Martin who runs AnalogVibes. You might reach out to them through their website, as they are pretty responsive.

I also believe that those pcbs were designed for them by a member here, livingnote, who until recently had a thread in the White Market for pcb creation (I don't see it anymore, so maybe he took it down). You could also try reaching out to him directly.

 

[andYz00m]

AnalogVibes/Martin are great, I'm on the wait list for more of the 175 kits to pop up. Guess I'll wait for that then. Thanks for the info.

 

[VertigoRecording]

The user rainton is Martin who runs AnalogVibes. You might reach out to them through their website, as they are pretty responsive.

I also believe that those pcbs were designed for them by a member here, livingnote, who until recently had a thread in the White Market for pcb creation (I don't see it anymore, so maybe he took it down). You could also try reaching out to him directly.

THANK YOU JMan!

 

[JMan]

Best of luck!

 

[jslstudio]

THANK YOU JMan!

I built a UA 176 exact clone from one of these kits. These would not work with your original. The boards Railton had made are two long and not thick enough. I know because I also have an original. It was my one gripe with the kit. When people copy these for original I wish they would do the chassis exact! (spec of an original ) Because It would help with original repairs also as in your case!
What did you ever work out?
John

 

[VertigoRecording]

I built a UA 176 exact clone from one of these kits. These would not work with your original. The boards Railton had made are two long and not thick enough. I know because I also have an original. It was my one gripe with the kit. When people copy these for original I wish they would do the chassis exact! (spec of an original ) Because It would help with original repairs also as in your case!
What did you ever work out?
John

Nothing just yet. My plan is to hack off the right side of the board and graft a new socket onto it using a small board that I bought on ebay that supports a tube socket and a few other things. Wish me luck!

 

[jslstudio]

Nothing just yet. My plan is to hack off the right side of the board and graft a new socket onto it using a small board that I bought on ebay that supports a tube socket and a few other things. Wish me luck!

Nothing just yet. My plan is to hack off the right side of the board and graft a new socket onto it using a small board that I bought on ebay that supports a tube socket and a few other things. Wish me luck!

I wouldn't do that. It will really ruin the value. Why not just use nice clear coated jumper leads ? You could just carefully cut a line through the traces and run clear coated jumpers on the trace paths.

 

[VertigoRecording]

I wouldn't do that. It will really ruin the value. Why not just use nice clear coated jumper leads ? You could just carefully cut a line through the traces and run clear coated jumpers on the trace paths.

I would still have to cut a hole in the board to remove the tube socket and somehow mount a new socket. Maybe that's a better approach than
hacking it off. I will have a think about it. Thanks.

 

[jslstudio]

I would still have to cut a hole in the board to remove the tube socket and somehow mount a new socket. Maybe that's a better approach than
hacking it off. I will have a think about it. Thanks.

You could use new eyelets when you pull the old socket out. Then If you have to drill out just a little ( where the old socket fingers through hole ) Then use clear epoxy just a small dab coated around the new eyelets and re install. Then use the new clear jumper wires following the old traces.
Hopefully that would get you out of the resistance from the cooked area.

 

[emrr]

These days almost nothing will ruin the value, do whatever works. So little of anything out there is all original and working, and the value of everything old is sky high.

 

[VertigoRecording]

Thank you John and Doug.