XLR latch

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Chrisfromthepast

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 5, 2018
Messages
265
Does anyone have a trick for getting these barrels out once the plunger breaks off?

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Im happy to solder a new connector with a new tab. Its already done, in fact.
My question is more about show site. Once these lil neutrik barrels are unscrewed from whatever cable they came from, they risk becoming lost forever. And then channel 9 on this snake is different from the others.
 
Can you remove the lid from whatever that unit is and manipulate what's left of the tab? Not sure what it looks like inside. Some are pretty easy to get at. Maybe can fish something around on top of xlr connector but idk.
 
There is normally a small tool which is essentially a flat rectangular section metal stick something like 2mm x 1mm. You poke it into where the plunger was and it releases the latch inside.

It is literally something like this.

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Yes!
I’ve improvised such a thing, but was hoping to find a sturdy tool that I could buy for techs.
This sort of thing is happening alot lately with the chauvet and music tribe stuff.
Alot of new stagehands yankin on cheap connectors.
 
Ive used a small flat jewelers screw driver to release the catch from the outside .
The best thing is to remove what remains of the catch completely on the ones with a broken push button ,
now they wont get stuck on you again , course they wont lock either but thats not so much of an issue because snake cables have a hanger . Actually having to replace an XLR socket in a big mixer you want to avoid at all costs , if someone inexperienced has to go poking with a tool everytime sooner or later something is going to get broken .

Sometimes its possible to bend the clip up so it no longer engages . Extracting it via the XLR socket is possible with a needle nose pliers but you dont want to end up with metal fragments falling into your mixer and making a job from hell for yourself so be careful.
 
This is for a rental company, so when it gets back to the shop, we always solder on a new connector to get the gear back to 100%.
I would pull the tabs off, or use a tabless part for my personal gear, but that approach doesn’t work well for rentals.
The Neutrik ones are easier to source, and the console in question is easy to service.

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Neutrik is one thing, but Im less familiar with Seetronic. This one is really stuck. Metal plunger still intact, just not making good contact.
Some of the outdoor lighting fixtures have these seetronic IP67 parts: K5F2C-W-B
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Seetronic. . . Totally bogus!
Put the Seetronic dust cover on a Neutrik for every one of those. The time spent will be less than the time maintaining that rubbish.
A plastic push tab? What garbaggio.
Mike
 
Im not aware of a IP67 rated 5pin XLR connector made by Neutrik.
Do you have a model number for a direct replacement?
The gaskets and rubber bits are to prevent water from getting inside of the light fixture. The push tab is metal with a rubber boot around it.
 
I've told this story before, last century I had a major issue with Neutrik XLR jacks that would not release mic cables plugged into them. Neutrik redesigned that faulty connector so is all good now.

JR
 
NC5FDX-TOP is new to me, I’ll try them out.
I hope they use the same chassis gasket and rubber plug for when the unit is unconnected.
Thanks!
I’ll take a picture when im back at the shop, but im pretty sure that seetronic button is a boot of rubber covering a metal tab/ plunger thing.
MusicTribe uses parts that are branded Neutrik for their Midas line, but I have replaced input connectors from those desks more than any other type.
In fairness, the live rental consoles worth 100k or more usually have a stage rack that is permanently patched to a 48+ channel multipin connector fanout, so those connectors don’t see the same level of abuse.
 
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The sealed seetronics arrived, and I installed one. That lighting fixture is back in the fleet.
Pictured on the right is the old connector with the boot ripped open to expose the metal plunger. It seems to be copied from neutrik, like this ethernet passthrough on the left for reference.
Center is the rear view of the potting that helps make this one IP67 rated.
 
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