Captain Kraplin Mic Pre-amp

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zebra50

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 4, 2004
Messages
2,943
Location
York, UK
Hi!

This reared its head at the 'other place' so stop me if you've heard this one before.

Once upon a time I had a couple of little battery powered mic preamps that came as kits from Maplins back in the early-mid eighties. They had a crappy looking unshielded input transformer (that was prone to hum), aOP27 op amp, and unbalanced output. A trimpot set the gain. I lost one about ten years ago, but the other lived in my toolbox/bench for quick testing & troubleshooting jobs.

Earlier this year it stopped working. I opened it up and replaced the electrolytic caps with some decent ones (which fixed it), and whilst I was inside noticed that there was space for a decent transformer. I slipped in a Sowter 1:7 mic input transformer. I also changed the 'loading' resistor at the xformer secondary to 100K.

Here's the circuit (curtesy of someone - sorry but I lost details of who posted it when TT went down - thank you whoever you are):

MaplinSchem.gif


After these changes I thought it actually sounded rather good and thought I'd try to make a stereo pair as a portable pre for doing minidisk recordings etc. I made some changes to the circuit based mostly on what I had in my parts box, and what I remembered from the suggestions at TT.
Also added a phantom supply powered by a stack of 9V batteries.

The changes were:

T1 Sowter 1:7
C1 omitted completely
C2 changed to 220pf
C3 Ployester not disc type
R1 100K not 18 K (n.b. I also tried 330K)
C5 output cap changed to non-polarised MKT poly type.
Gain trimmer now an external pot.
Phantom power added
Run off 2 x 9V battery for +/- 9V operation (the origineal was a single battery)

The unit is quiet and has more than enough gain, even for ribbon mics. The phantom supply works well. Unfortunately, I'm now a bit disppointed by the sound and it is duller & less detailed than I remember the 'prototype' being.

Really I'm asking you all if you any of the changes I've made may have caused unforeseen problems. Any suggestions?

Here's some pictures of the mostly-built stereo unit.

Kraplin773.jpg


Kraplin1108b.jpg


Thanks!
Stewart
 
Hi Stewart,

Aha, it's arrived...and in a recycled tremolo box??

All looking good so far. If you're running it off a +/-9V supply you won't need R4 or R5- they were just a potential divider to provide a centre-rail 0V from the single battery. They won't do any harm, but are an extra drain on battery life.

How is the sound different from the prototype, and what is different about the circuit/layout? It's interesting when this happens- the lash up sounds great, but after applying time/thought/care/tweaking something changes...

...oh, and UK DIY'ers, don't rush out to Craplin to buy the bits to make this- you'll only be disappointed :green:

Good stuff Stewart!

Mark
 
That circuit needs to be changed a little for + and - supplys. The two 10Ks junction is the 1/2V signal ground in that circuit.

What I would do is run it from 18V or even 27V for 2 reasons one it is simple, two the 10Ks will always be 1/2 of the supply. Batterys are not Know to all discharge at the same rate. What I mean one supply might be 8.5V and another 7.2V if it is a single supply it will "auto correct" (marketing term)


I forgot to add r1 and c1 are the transformer load that can make a difference.
 
In practice I don't think that's a problem when you got an output capacitor. I do the same in a dual 797 preamp for ribbon mics.

If you swap the OP27 with something else then there isn't any Craplin parts left :green:

I never heard a single opamp pre that sounded any good. Soundcraft are really the kings of doing this badly :twisted:
 
Good point Gus,

That will keep the rails to the op-amp symmetrical under all battery conditions. The 10k resistors only impart a ~1mA drain per battery.

Mark
 
Stewart,

Have you tried connecting a padded signal generator and doing a frequency sweep to see what sort of response you're getting? The transformer may need a series RC termination to help even out its response. I had a really interesting article about the method of determining the "zobel" network at the secondary of a mic transformer pasted from TT, but I can't find it at the moment. I'll keep looking!

Edit>

Much grinding of HD's later and I've found it- I think it was posted at TT by CJ from an e-mail he received- I'd printed it out and thought I'd have to re-type it. Thank goodness for my never-ending folders of Tech info!!

Subject:RC damping network values
From:Dale Roche <[email protected]>
Date:Thu, 10 Sep 1998

Thanks for contacting Jensen Transformers.
There is no simple way to calculate the series RC damping networks for
microphone input transformers. Interwinding capacitance is not important,
it is distributed capacitance within the windings that matters, and this ia
not an easily measurable quantity. Also, the transformer needs to be damped
with all of the circuit stray capacitances and loads in place around the
transformer. This is especially true with tube circuit designs where the
"miller" capacitance of the first stage may be VERY significant. The
simplest way to determine the proper damping network for a microphone input
transformer is experimentally. The method is actually quite simple and
fast once that you have done it a couple of times and have gotten together
the proper kit of tools to make it easy.

SETUP:

1) Drive the microphone input with a squarewave generator that has a
source impedance of 150 Ohms. This value is approximately in the middle of
the range of source impedances common to most microphones. If you have a
special situation where the microphone is going to have a known, much lower
impedance (say 20 Ohms), use this impedance instead. Make sure that the
output signal from the generator has nice clean, fast edges with no overshoot.
2) Set the generator for a signal level of approximately 0.1 Volts peak to
peak and a frequency of approximately 5 to 10 kHz.
3) Power the microphone pre-amp and adjust the gain to a level about 10dB
below clipping. The level isn't real critical, just make sure that the
pre-amp is operating in a normal gain range and that it isn't clipping.
4) Connect an oscilloscope across the secondary of the input transformer
using a x10 low capacitance oscilloscope probe. You MUST use a x10 probe in
order to prevent adding SIGNIFICANT capacitance across the secondary of the
transformer. Make sure that you have "calibrated" the oscilloscope probe
trimmer capacitor before starting this procedure.
5) Connect a capacitor substitution box in series with a 20k or 50k pot
and place this network across the secondary of the transformer. You may
also want to include a 1k pot in series with the 20k pot as a "fine"
adjustment control. The capacitor substitution box should have a range of
100pF to about 10,000pF for typical microphone input transformers. Extra
capacitors can be added in parallel if you need larger values. Standard 10%
value increments (100pF, 120pF, 150pF etc.) should provide enough
resolution for even "fussy" tweaking.

6) Make sure that the basic impedance determining load resistor is in
place across the secondary of the transformer. This value is typically 1500
Ohms x the turns ratio squared (for example our JT-115K-E uses 1500 Ohms x
10 x 10 = 150kOhms). This resistor sets the input impedance of the
microphone pre-amp.

ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:

1) Set the capacitor substitution box to the highest value (1000pF to
10,000pF) and adjust the pot for maximum resistance value (20k to 50k).
2) While watching the oscilloscope, lower the value of the pot. This
should decrease the overshoot of the waveform and reduce the ringing.
Adjust the pot for the highest value that will prevent all the overshoot
and ringing.
3) The objective now is going to be to find the SMALLEST value of
capacitance and the HIGHEST value of resistance that will eliminate all the
overshoot and ringing and leave just a smooth, flat topped squarewave with
a nice fast rising edge.
4) Keep decreasing the value of the capacitance and re-tuning the pot
until you can no longer eliminate the ringing and overshoot by adjusting
the pot. Go back to the last higher value of capacitance and do a final
tweak of the pot and then measure the final resistance value. These values
are your final damping network.

NOTE: Some transformers will have very high frequency, very small amplitude
ringing in addition to the main lower frequency, large amplitude ringing.
You will probably NOT be able to tweak this effect out of the transformer,
but it is usually not anything to worry about because it is so far removed
from the audio frequency range and results in only a small fraction of a
dB of frequency response variation at a point where the transformer
response is already 10dB or 20dB down from reference level.

Dale Roche - Project Engineer
*********************

:thumb:

Mark
 
Also there was a great post by PRR about transformer termination on the old forum. I hope you permit me to quote you, PRR. It´s here:

> vintage transformers.... So, I can´t get termination info from them!

Most transformers were run without that R-C network we see today.

Most vintage designs did NOT have the response and phase linearity we seem to expect today.

In the old days, it was cool if a transformer had a mild top-ring, because your amplifier usually had some top-sag. With luck, the two errors came out about right.

In later designs, small caps would be stuck at arbitrary places to trim the overall response pretty-flat past 20KC. That's what all the mica trimmers are in an LA-2. They must be adjusted after you pick transformers and wire the amp, because they correct for all the stray losses. Nobody looked at phase, and some small ringing was expected.

Mike To Grid transformers usually ran direct to a grid with no other loading. "Termination" was infinite DC to treble, but the tube grid capacitance resonated with the winding leakage inductance damped by winding resistance.

Line transformers were often loaded in their rated resistance. Most of them work OK (though not the same) when driven from a lo-Z source into a hi-Z load.

Even if you had the rated reactances, they are probably not accurate.

> Isn´t it related in any matter with winding inductance, dc resistance and load impedance?

And winding leakage inductance, two winding self-capacitances, the load capacitance.....

A full analysis of a transformer is a problem with at least 6 variables, non-intuitive interaction, and when you improve one parameter you usually make another one worse.

For maximum voltage transfer, you should drive from a lo-Z source and load with very-hi-Z (where Z includes both R and C).

With solid-state amplifiers, it is possible to make input capacitance negligible. But you can't make an amplifying tube's grid capacitance negligible compared to a hi-Z winding. So tubes have a declining Z at high frequencies. The transformer leakage inductance has a rising Z.

First decide what source and load impedances you can run. A "200Ω" winding will act different if driven from 1Ω or 1,000Ω. Yes, a mike transformer has different response when fed by a 100Ω or a 300Ω microphone, though the real change comes when you drive "600Ω" windings from a zero-Ohm op-amp or into an infinite impedance grid.

If you seriously want to do good audio, you MUST have good signal generator, AC voltmeter, and scope.

Test-bench the transformer with the proposed source and load impedances. (For hi-Z windings like mike to grid, you really must build the amp; there is no way to estimate parasitic capacitances accurately enough.) Sweep a sine up to 100KC or 200KC. FOr a few 600:600 transformers, response will be flat far beyond the audio band, and your job is done.

More likely the response will droop or peak. If it droops, try a higher load impedance (if possible). Peaking is tough and sometimes can NOT be cured. If it peaks inside the audio band, it is never going to be "uncolored". If the peak frequency is above 20KC you can probably make audio response pretty good. Try a lower load impedance. This will generally flatten the peak, but in some cases by the time you have the peak tamed the midrange loss is too high or the input impedance is too low. Pick a trial resistor that seems to tame the peak, then compute a series capacitor with reactance equal to the resistor at some frequency between the top of the audio band and the peak frequency. Run the response again, checking midband loss and impedance too. Try different values of R and C until it looks best.

> with solid state input stages, I would have to add a capacitor paralel with the resistor on the sondary of the mic input transformer.

Almost never. A cap on a transformer usually makes things worse.

However the transformer winding already has significant capacitance, and will ring. In some cases you can do "better" with a series combination of R and C.

> Any tips to find the apropriate pF value for this?

Equal to the transformer nominal impedance at 20KHz. That is almost never the right answer, but puts you near the right drawer of your cap assortment box.

PRR
 
Hi all,
Many thanks for the suggestions.

Mark, Gus. I should have made it clear that I have it on 18V with the voltage divider in place for the reasons suggested.

For the other stuff I think I need to sit and digest this for a while and then do some experiments. I can get my hands on a good scope for the weekend but am struggling for a good frequency generator - I usually use a synth module or my laptop! I'm a bit confused by the x10 capacitance probe thing - I don't know if I can get hold of one of those.

Thanks for the link - the pictures help.
 
OP27? Talking about bad. There is no way that this rig will ever be enjoyable on ribbon mikes. Its slew rate is 2.8V/uS, far worse than the NE5534. The gain bandwidth product is 8MHz, less than the NE5534. The OP27 works better in low gain (1 through 10) applications.
Before you spend a lot of time on finding a loading network and you think the input transformer is overdampened don't dampen it at all, listen to it. If you don't get any sparkle back there is another problem.
Lower C2 to 100pf or less, it may be cutting the already dismal bandwidth further down.
Be careful to use the same exact setup for recording. Try to A/B recordings using the same source.

Tamas
 
Thanks

TK. Do you have any suggestions for substitutions for the OP27? When you say 'don't dampen' do you mean remove R1 completely?

With respect to the transformer, I should have said that with R1=100K, I tried Sowter 4935 and 3195 1:7 types, and with R1=50K a Lundahl 1:5 (possibly L1428?). I didn't notice any major audible differences between these three and went with the 3195's because I picked up a pair of PCB mount very cheaply.

I am not expecting this to be an amazing peice of kit, just useful for its purpose. I still have the (now transformerless) original, so I can do a transplant and see if there really is any difference or if I am fooling myself.

Cheers!
Stewart
 
substitutions for the OP27?
Since the minimum gain is set at almost x8 I would drop the good old NE5534A in there. You don't even need the 22p compensation capacitor between pin 5 and 8 because past x4 gain there is more than enough feedback to keep the amp stable.

you say 'don't dampen' do you mean remove R1 completely?
Yes.

With a 1:7 input transformer your minimum gain is around 35dB, pretty high. You could reduce the 680 ohm resistor to 200 to bring it down to 26dB or so.
 
Thanks!

So, I made a few of these changes.

C2 = 22pF

op amp changed to NE5534

R3 (feedback resitor) reduced to 220R

It sounds better. I checked out the frequency response with a sine wave & scope - almost flat from 20kHz down to 100Hz and then drops off slightly.

I put a square wave through to as suggested. There is ringing and it looks sever to me - here's a picture of the output with a 7kHz square wave:

CKscope1.jpg


The frequency of the 'ring' is about 164kHz. It is constant with changing input freq. I found that I can remove most of it by changing the load resistor to 33k in parallel with a 220pF cap, but I don't really thing I want to do that as it will reduce the input inpedence. The ringing is well above the audio range - should I even worry about it?
Cheers!
Stewart
 

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