GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

turk sanchez said:

...how do you guys keep from having a large bolt sticking out from the bottom of the single space rack enclosure (the bolt that mounts the power transformer)? Are you guys drilling a counter-sunk hole and not using the washer?

Any tips on this would be appreciated.

Click to expand...

Usually I drill a countersunk hole in the bottom of the case. If the case material isn't very thick or if the power transformer is quite heavy, I reinforce the metal with a 5mm thick piece of round plastic thats glued on the case with epoxy.

For the usual base plates where material is too thin to countersink, a simple 6mm "carriage bolt" works fine - just use a small file to square up a 6.5mm drilled hole.



These are also sometimes available with fully-flat instead of concave heads..

Jakob E.

Does anyone know where the control voltage for the VCA's  is originated?

Take a look at the schematic?

I have been. I can't figure it out.

Please, someone could suggested me an encapsuled transformer for the PCB REV7? I can´t find those suggested at pcb layout. Thanks,

Thank you, Majestic12 and Jakob.

I appreciate both of your suggestions. I was thinking counter-sunk flat head bolt, but yeah, was worried that might be really tricky w/thin rack panels.

If I can find a thin, flat  6mm "carriage bolt"  that might be the way to go. And just mount it as far back as possible (near the back panel). ..and leave 1/2 empty space below it in the rack.

PS...I am having a blast w/this kit. Ordered a couple 120ohm resistors from digikey, so I am waiting for those to come in before I go any farther stuffing the PCB. Here she is now.

sociald02 said:

I have been. I can't figure it out.

Click to expand...

Control voltage goes to pin 3 of the VCA, I have never measured or looked before, but your question made me curious, since I couldn't determine if it was pin 2 or 3 at first before looking at the actual board layout to see pin 2 is grounded.

According to the data sheet (google 2180 data sheet), pin 3 is the negative CV pin , which controls gain inverse to the applied voltage. It does make sense looking at it in context of the circuit, seeing as compressed signal voltage is inverse signal voltage relative to the  above threshold signal.

I could be wrong, since I still get confused about where we are (positive/negative) on inversed opamp configurations sometimes, but I hope it gives you something to work with.

And now I have a question.

Switching  CV to pin 2, ground to pin 3 . That would make the unit expand? or would we have to reverse the polarity of the control voltage too? (or none of the above?)

Gustav

turk sanchez said:

Thank you, Majestic12 and Gustav.

Click to expand...

That was Jakob/Gyraf.

I wouldn't mind having Jakob's skills, but I am sure Gyraf sales would suffer if someone got the idea that his finely tuned machines were made by someone still learning the very basics of electronics 

So its best to not confuse us, even if I sell some of his PCB layouts.

Gustav

Gustav said:

sociald02 said:

I have been. I can't figure it out.

Click to expand...

Control voltage goes to pin 3 of the VCA, I have never measured or looked before, but your question made me curious, since I couldn't determine if it was pin 2 or 3 at first before looking at the actual board layout to see pin 2 is grounded.

According to the data sheet (google 2180 data sheet), pin 3 is the negative CV pin , which controls gain inverse to the applied voltage. It does make sense looking at it in context of the circuit, seeing as compressed signal voltage is inverse signal voltage relative to the  above threshold signal.

I could be wrong, since I still get confused about where we are (positive/negative) on inversed opamp configurations sometimes, but I hope it gives you something to work with.

And now I have a question.

Reversing the polarity and switching  CV to pin 2, ground to pin 3 . That would make the unit expand?

Gustav

Click to expand...

yes the more info the better, thank you.

It is very possible that the unit would expand if pin 2 and 3 were reversed from what I can think. Interesting question.

sociald02 said:

Gustav said:

sociald02 said:

I have been. I can't figure it out.

Click to expand...

Control voltage goes to pin 3 of the VCA, I have never measured or looked before, but your question made me curious, since I couldn't determine if it was pin 2 or 3 at first before looking at the actual board layout to see pin 2 is grounded.

According to the data sheet (google 2180 data sheet), pin 3 is the negative CV pin , which controls gain inverse to the applied voltage. It does make sense looking at it in context of the circuit, seeing as compressed signal voltage is inverse signal voltage relative to the  above threshold signal.

I could be wrong, since I still get confused about where we are (positive/negative) on inversed opamp configurations sometimes, but I hope it gives you something to work with.

And now I have a question.

Reversing the polarity and switching  CV to pin 2, ground to pin 3 . That would make the unit expand?

Gustav

Click to expand...

yes the more info the better, thank you.

It is very possible that the unit would expand if pin 2 and 3 were reversed from what I can think. Interesting question.

Click to expand...

Actally, had a bit of a Homer Simpson (Do´h) moment.

Please notice that Jakob drew the 2180 replacement circuit in the right lower corner of the schematic.

I always navigate it at high resolution, so I never saw it until I printed it last night.

Gustav

Hey guys,

Looking for some help with this DIY SSL comp I have. I didn't build it. Not really impressed with the sound.
Can you guys have a look at the guts in this thing for me. It seems to be a modified version of the original PCB board design. What can I do to make this better. I am willing to
do some unsoldering, replacing resistors, caps, chips, etc. I am even willing to pay someone some bucks (20-30)
to help me compile a BOM list and give me a lil guidance. First things first. Let me know whats what with
this clone. 
Here's a link to the pics: https://imageshack.com/a/xhPz/1
Thanks in advance for all the help.
Zq

zqone537 said:

Not really impressed with the sound

Click to expand...

Please specify "not impressed".

Do you know what a SSL mixbus compressor should sound like, and do you know exactly how to use it?

Jakob E.

Wow Jakob! 
How this for a nice welcome to the SSL help thread bro.  Just because I only have 20 posts here doesn't mean I have no experience as an Engineer, producer, mixer, etc.  I do know what an SSL should sound like. I also know what an API 2500 sounds like, 1176 sounds like, CLIB sounds like, Manely Vari Mu, UBK Fatso so.... on.......
Did you even look at the pics I posted? I may not know much about building the gear but I do know what sounds great and what sounds ok. And I believe  that this piece can be made to sound better then it does now.  So before you criticize me for having an opinion, have a look at the guts of her and let me know what you think?
Thank you for being of no help what so ever.

zqone537 said:

Wow Jakob! 
How this for a nice welcome to the SSL help thread bro.  Just because I only have 20 posts here doesn't mean I have no experience as an Engineer, producer, mixer, etc.  I do know what an SSL should sound like. I also know what an API 2500 sounds like, 1176 sounds like, CLIB sounds like, Manely Vari Mu, UBK Fatso so.... on.......
Did you even look at the pics I posted? I may not know much about building the gear but I do know what sounds great and what sounds ok. And I believe  that this piece can be made to sound better then it does now.  So before you criticize me for having an opinion, have a look at the guts of her and let me know what you think?
Thank you for being of no help what so ever.

Click to expand...

When you've answered about 100 mails and 100 questions on a forum about units that turned out to have some very basic problems that didn't need overly complicated trouble shooting to be solved, you will find its a good idea to start with the basics.

The following questions are pretty reasonable considering the starting point is a non-descriptive "not impressed with the sound"

What are you not impressed with?  (Could be you are annoyed with some high pitched squealing, little to no compression, do you find it too noisy, is there some slight discoloration around 2Khz when you push it hard, or...)

And also, its good to ask to establish if you have  a point of reference to the gear, rather than assuming you do.

Its a matter of you helping the group to help you

Gustav

Hey Gustav
Thank you for your kind, adult response bro. When you put it that way, I completely understand what you are saying. I have to admit my description isn't really that detailed. What I don't appreciate is being communicated to like a child.  Or like I'm a moron. This is a help thread right?
Anyway.....
So from what I remember,  It was really about it not sounding Hi-Fi enough.  A lil to dark when it got pushed like you say. It's hard for me to be detailed right now. When I hook her up I will be able to be more detailed.

Zq

zqone537 said:

Hey Gustav
Thank you for your kind, adult response bro. When you put it that way, I completely understand what you are saying. I have to admit my description isn't really that detailed. What I don't appreciate is being communicated to like a child.  Or like I'm a moron. This is a help thread right?
Anyway.....
So from what I remember,  It was really about it not sounding Hi-Fi enough.  A lil to dark when it got pushed like you say. It's hard for me to be detailed right now. When I hook her up I will be able to be more detailed.

Zq

Click to expand...

nothing written on the pcb? like a brand or name?

Nada Weiss.

Hi all,

This is my first GSSL build and I'm running in to a bit of a snag. I've built a few pedals from kits and one 500 series preamp, but this is by far my most complex build to date. What I'm running in to is that it seems no matter how carefully I apply the solder, it keeps creeping over onto adjacent pads. I know this is a total noob soldering question but I didn't know if anyone had any tips for a PCB with holes this close together. Attached are some pictures. On the few that I've goofed so far, what works best to remove the solder? My desoldering wick got the majority but there's still a thin film on the pad. Thanks in advance for everyone's help!

Tyler

http://imgur.com/a/VRvbs

I think I messed up my dc meter! When soldering the wires (the 2 pins that connect the control part to move the needle) I melted the plastic at the back and I dont think it working as the needle wont move  (power is fine). Is it safe to cut open the plastic on the back and reconnect the wires back on the pins (I think 1 might have came off). I know it will be butchered but I dont care if it works!

1st I need to replace a suspected dead cap in the output vca as its not passing audio either (installed wrong way), this is my 1st one please excuse my mess ups!