AC heaters ultimate hum limit

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ruffrecords said:
@Duke: I also am beginning to think the cause is primarily magnetic filed - of course it is hard to twist tracks on a PCB so I will try your idea of disconnecting tracks and replacing with twisted wire. The problem is made more difficult because the heaters of the two tubes are wired in series. I love the insulated loop idea - I'll try that too.

@moamps: Thanks for the SE cancellation link. I will check it out.

Cheers

Ian

Hi Ian

Sometime you need to think outside the box.

I use twisted traces on my PCB's  This is especially needed for summing buss. See my attachment. Place the traces on top of each other, and then flip them using a via. I hope this gives you some help.

Duke :)
 

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ricardo said:
Yes.  Try different number of points.

There's a number of ways to "calibrate" an FFT when measuring noise but you should see the relative change between broadband noise & 'monotonic' noise (eg hum/buzz) quite clearly.

I tried a wide range of points from 2028 up to 131K. Apart from the frequency resolution there was no discernible difference
between them.

In my 1970s/80s Calrec days, hum/buzz had to be "inaudible".  This required hum/buzz to be well below  :eek: the measured A/broadband/CCIR noise level.  But the final arbiter was always headphones and the gain right up.

That has to be the final arbiter but it works both ways. Sometimes you hear something then go to find what it is with instruments. Other times you hear nothing but instruments tell you something is there and you listen again and you can hear it.

Cheers

Ian
 
merlin said:
How clean is the 50Hz? I'm guessing it's it a rather corrupt waveform, which actually contains higher frequency components that are more easily coupled to the grid etc. Anything you could do to make it more of a pure sinewave would likely lower the noise floor.

Wiring the heaters in a different order or with different relative phases may also help to optimise, but obviously there is a limit to what you can do here, given the voltages and pinouts.

Guard traces around the heater pins?

The waveform is certainly badly distorted; the second harmonics is only 12dB below the fundamental. Much worse than I would have expected but even so the 50Hz is n#by far the highest.

Cheers

Ian
 
JohnRoberts said:
If the AC heater is introducing a known repeatable hum signal, is it possible to cancel it out by introducing an opposite version of that signal into the input?

Yes, though it can have a warmup/settling factor too.  I've seen 120AC dropped through 30M to opposite polarity cathode with 60Hz reduction to less than 1/3rd original value, after all other routing/screening tricks fine tuned.  In the one case it took a 30 minute warm-up to see maximum reduction. 


Agreed DC gets cumbersome in large systems.  Fine for small systems.  Also agreed maybe only needed on 1st stage rather than all. 

In practice my for-hire studio is full of AC filament tube gear and no one ever notices hum.  Hiss is always the larger factor. 
 
> it is hard to twist tracks on a PCB

On PCB you can "NOT" get low hum. The AC in the heater tracks is throwing hum at grid and plate nodes, and you (generally*) have negligible cancellation.

You know multi-program broadcast consoles. Say you have the Hummingbird Hour in one mike channel. For whatever reason you are told to route the football show line output right next to these low-level nodes in a poorly balanced cable. You are going to have "GOAL!!" echoes behind the little hummingbirds.

*) Duke's twisted via PCB trick is novel to me. It isn't clear that any reasonable number of vias will really cancel the field when heaters are 0.2" (5mm) from grid and plate pins. A quad layout may work, if vias are utterly free.

IMHO, hand-wired twisted-pair is an effective old-school technique for many tube inputs. In today's market DC supplies (up-rated to cover cold-start) are affordable. Both DC-drop and PCB layout favor series heater circuits whenever possible. If you have an odd number of heaters (relative to standard supply voltages), a series resistor is dead heat but also limits start-surge and gives a place for filtering. 20-50 Ohms with a low-ESR 5uFd cap will cut a lot of 20+KHz hash before it passes through your sensitive nodes.

And of course much depends on the client's metering. When I had low-power headphones jacks and VU meters I could have significant hum and not know it; on older systems maybe not even in final monitoring (all systems hummed). And of course some power-hum was masked by typically larger room-blower rumble. Now that everybody has a DAW with "meters" which go down to -96dBfs, and some work in blowerless studios (bedrooms), a wee trace of hum looks bad, even if unheard.
 
PRR said:
> it is hard to twist tracks on a PCB

On PCB you can "NOT" get low hum. The AC in the heater tracks is throwing hum at grid and plate nodes, and you (generally*) have negligible cancellation.

You know multi-program broadcast consoles. Say you have the Hummingbird Hour in one mike channel. For whatever reason you are told to route the football show line output right next to these low-level nodes in a poorly balanced cable. You are going to have "GOAL!!" echoes behind the little hummingbirds.

*) Duke's twisted via PCB trick is novel to me. It isn't clear that any reasonable number of vias will really cancel the field when heaters are 0.2" (5mm) from grid and plate pins. A quad layout may work, if vias are utterly free.
There are sundry PCB tricks... I've even seen coils made from ribbon cable jumpers inserted into a PCB forming a loop, with the pcb traces connecting adjacent wires on the bottom of the PCB to complete the coil.

Chasing crosstalk and hum out of mixers is part of the job, especially if it's a powered mixer with a couple hundred watt power amp, and a spring reverb for good measure... Try to keep the hum out of the spring reverb magnetic pick-up a few inches from the power transformer, but I'm veering off topic.  :eek:

One PCB layout technique that an engineer who used to work for me in my mixer design group, and sorry I forget what he called it, but he was trying to reduce the loop area for a signal pair (send and 0V return).  In theory to reduce the voltage generated by a magnetic field passing through that loop area you want to make the wires as close together as possible to minimize the loop area exposed to the magnetic field.  His technique that worked even for single sided PCBs was to run one trace for the signal send, and then bracket that one trace with two return traces. As he explained it to me, the effective centerline for the two outer traces is right in the middle of them, exactly where the first trace is. So in theory, there is zero effective loop area between the send trace and virtual return trace.  ;D

I never bench tested this myself, but I know he did, and I presume it works (at least on the noise rejection end). Tweaking the last noise out of such designs often takes multiple iterative  passes, he was my best senior mixer design engineer. 

If you think about it, this virtual wire center line is kind of how star-quad mic cable works. The two pairs of twisted wires in parallel, will have an effective center in the middle between each pair. The tight symmetrical twist of all four wires means their effective center-lines should overlay each other perfectly, again forming a zero loop area condition.  (I have bench tested star quad and it really works).

JR

PS:  @Duke I spell it bus... if you look up "buss" you will find a verb describing something you do with a (nice) girl.. enjoy.
IMHO, hand-wired twisted-pair is an effective old-school technique for many tube inputs. In today's market DC supplies (up-rated to cover cold-start) are affordable. Both DC-drop and PCB layout favor series heater circuits whenever possible. If you have an odd number of heaters (relative to standard supply voltages), a series resistor is dead heat but also limits start-surge and gives a place for filtering. 20-50 Ohms with a low-ESR 5uFd cap will cut a lot of 20+KHz hash before it passes through your sensitive nodes.

And of course much depends on the client's metering. When I had low-power headphones jacks and VU meters I could have significant hum and not know it; on older systems maybe not even in final monitoring (all systems hummed). And of course some power-hum was masked by typically larger room-blower rumble. Now that everybody has a DAW with "meters" which go down to -96dBfs, and some work in blowerless studios (bedrooms), a wee trace of hum looks bad, even if unheard.
 
ruffrecords said:
I tried a wide range of points from 2028 up to 131K. Apart from the frequency resolution there was no discernible difference between them.
Can you post some pics with various FFT sizes?

What should change is how high above the "noise" floor the buzz components sit.
 
ricardo said:
ruffrecords said:
I tried a wide range of points from 2028 up to 131K. Apart from the frequency resolution there was no discernible difference between them.
Can you post some pics with various FFT sizes?

What should change is how high above the "noise" floor the buzz components sit.

I have cut the heater tracks now so I'll do it after I have rewired the heaters with a twisted pair.

Cheers

ian
 
Ian, can you post the actual layout to physically show the locations of circuitry and connection paths.

Do you get any variation from tube rolling (when humdinger and elevation are all applied)?

Are you using a high resistance valve socket material which has been cleaned of residue?
 
I personnaly always work with ac heater and use a hand drill to twist the wires as tight as possible. When working with pcb, I hard wire the heaters instead of using traces :)
 
trobbins said:
Ian, can you post the actual layout to physically show the locations of circuitry and connection paths.

Do you get any variation from tube rolling (when humdinger and elevation are all applied)?

Are you using a high resistance valve socket material which has been cleaned of residue?

PCB layout attached. I have highlighted the heater wiring in chalky white. Yes I know it is a large loop area but is was designed for dc heaters.

Not tried tube rolling.

Not using a tube socket. I use 1mm gold plated pins directly soldered to the PCB (FR4)

Cheers

Ian
 

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I have made the twisted wire heaters modification. The 50Hz hum looks to be 6dB lower but the 100Hz looks within a dB of what it was. As requested by Ricardo I have captured pics with various numbers of points in the FFts. Each is labelled with the number. As Ricardo suggested, the broadband noise floor gets lower with more points but the 50/100Hz component amplitudes remain unchanged as does the total power

4K points https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_n67A1hN3qtQ3UwT0Jabm1QTVU/view?usp=sharing
8K points https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_n67A1hN3qtTmNocUpOVFhYRjg/view?usp=sharing
16K points https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_n67A1hN3qtcENiNmJPNzZ1cDQ/view?usp=sharing
32K points https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_n67A1hN3qtY3c2NDdQbEhzUXc/view?usp=sharing
131K points https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_n67A1hN3qtbXM5TWM2bkhXX0U/view?usp=sharing

Next I will try the humdinger again.

Cheers

Ian
 
I started using capacitance multipliers for HT because they need no heatsinks and work well enough for me. Mains voltage changes are small enough, they also make tube stages very quiet. Smallest component for my typical multiplier is TIP50 transistor, the rest are 2 5W resistors, about 100u/400V input filter cap, 3 33u/400V and a few 5W zeners into TIP50 base. Very simple, almost no heat, beside 100u cap others could probably be smaller than 33u and film types. This can be easily built p2p on veroboard or so.
Can't find examples where people use cap multipliers for heaters, some audiophiles put them before the regulators to get lower ripple.
Wouldn't be this good solution even at lower voltages/higher currents for heaters? I found out input filter for HT needs bigger lytic cap like 100u at ~250V/15mA, others like cap into transistor base can be even smaller than 33u even at beta of 50, can't hear or see any problems on a scope this way. Fearn uses only simple CRC filters with zeners and no one complains, that is even simpler.
Material is so cheap that every channel in larger systems could have their own cap multipliers, feeding them with AC shouldn't be a problem. I'm sure about HT, although never tried them for heaters because i got stash of heatsinks for free and never get over 1A at 6,3V.  Would capacitance multiplier be problematic for heaters, is there any reason for it?
 
Hi Ian

It would be nice to see an FFT when the heaters are run on DC using and external regulated PS. This would show the normal power transformer contribution of noise / hum. We then can get a base line for the heater hum.

Duke :)
 
My3gger said:
I started using capacitance multipliers for HT because they need no heatsinks and work well enough for me. Mains voltage changes are small enough, they also make tube stages very quiet. Smallest component for my typical multiplier is TIP50 transistor, the rest are 2 5W resistors, about 100u/400V input filter cap, 3 33u/400V and a few 5W zeners into TIP50 base. Very simple, almost no heat, beside 100u cap others could probably be smaller than 33u and film types. This can be easily built p2p on veroboard or so.
Can't find examples where people use cap multipliers for heaters, some audiophiles put them before the regulators to get lower ripple.
Yes, back last century I used cap multipliers as a ripple filter/ pre-regulator for a large recording console PS. 
Wouldn't be this good solution even at lower voltages/higher currents for heaters? I found out input filter for HT needs bigger lytic cap like 100u at ~250V/15mA, others like cap into transistor base can be even smaller than 33u even at beta of 50, can't hear or see any problems on a scope this way. Fearn uses only simple CRC filters with zeners and no one complains, that is even simpler.
Material is so cheap that every channel in larger systems could have their own cap multipliers, feeding them with AC shouldn't be a problem. I'm sure about HT, although never tried them for heaters because i got stash of heatsinks for free and never get over 1A at 6,3V.  Would capacitance multiplier be problematic for heaters, is there any reason for it?
I wouldn't know, still not a tube guy...

JR
 
with regards to hum cancellation by injecting a negative phase signal, this might be an idea,
http://diyaudioprojects.com/mirror/members.aol.com/sbench/humbal.html
although the article is for direct heater filaments, the same should apply to indirect heaters i would imagine. I might give it a try with one of my preamps that I have a small amount of hum from ac.
 
ruffrecords said:
I have made the twisted wire heaters modification. The 50Hz hum looks to be 6dB lower but the 100Hz looks within a dB of what it was. As requested by Ricardo I have captured pics with various numbers of points in the FFts. Each is labelled with the number. As Ricardo suggested, the broadband noise floor gets lower with more points but the 50/100Hz component amplitudes remain unchanged as does the total power
Thanks for this Ian.  This tells me the QA400 software is "calibrated" to read single tones 'properly'.

What you have to avoid is to quote the 'FFT noise floor' as the noise level ... this is almost always dominated by the FFT size.  :eek:

Some measurement pseudo gurus, including the authors of a couple of popular measurement packages are guilty of this very misleading sin.

The proper figure to quote is the 'total power' level over a given bandwidth.  This is also what you should use if you want to say "hum is 20dB below the noise".
 
ricardo said:
What you have to avoid is to quote the 'FFT noise floor' as the noise level ... this is almost always dominated by the FFT size.  :eek:

You can, but you must use the PSD and not the FFT, it means that your Y axis scale will be V²/Hz or V/sqrt(Hz), you only have to divide the FFT value by the square root of the width of a bin (well there may be a factor of 2 somewhere ...). If you increase the FFT size by a factor of 4, the FFT noise floor decrease by 6dB but the PSD noise floor is constant since the square root of the width of the FFT bin was divided by 2.
 
Audio1Man said:
Hi Ian

It would be nice to see an FFT when the heaters are run on DC using and external regulated PS. This would show the normal power transformer contribution of noise / hum. We then can get a base line for the heater hum.

Duke :)

Second linked image of first post is with dc heaters.

Cheers

Ian
 

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