[BUILD] 1176 Rev A - Back to the beginning...

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Thanks Kazper.I usally order @ Farnell.For rev A or rev D , several parts are located in USA!Farnell ask me for 18e to get them!!Looking at the $ vs euro , I'll try Mouser I think.
thx for help!!
 
It is very similar to the rev D list except certain components. Such as the 2 J309 and a few caps and some resistors. Might be cool to just list the different components and go from there. I think I may chicken out on all carbon resistors on mine tho. I already have almost every one of them in metal film. But I am still considering it lol. It is very time consuming to order a whole page load of new resistors...

Anyone know what caps were in the original? I saw some inside pics of old ones and there seemed to be alot of big ceramics in there. I kinda want to make it different from my rev D's. I'm not afraid of a little noise and a cool vibe. You won't notice any extra noise on a loud guitar cabinet or a snare drum. ;)

Anyone see any inside pics of an original rev A or have access to one? Or even other very early units?
 
OutOfTune....what cap from mouser did you order for the 38pf?  I think I'm going to just try a 39pf 2% mica cap.  I'm not an expert on how that will effect the sound so I figured I'd ask first before I soldered it in :)
 
The BOM doesn't mention the output, attack or release pots, but I assume these are the same as in the Rev D, no?

Anyone else getting close to having a BOM for Digikey/Mouser done?

Thanks,
Sig
 
I'm currently building an mnats RevA 1176 and noticed there is a X and Y pad on the meter switch, like the G1176 I previously built. I couldn't find a X or Y pad on the main board. I also noticed on the RevD board it's the same issue. On the RevA there is a TP10 and TP11 pad. Are these the connections for the meter boards X and Y pads? I'm sure I'm missing something that someone could point out. Yes, I did a search with no luck. :-[
 
Hey,

The X and Y connections are Pin 2 and 3 on the XLR out.  I don't think it matters which is which.

Thanks,

Mike

Edit: This is only true of the meter board connections.  The Output Transformer connections are phase dependent (blue + and Red -).
 
I don't think phase is an issue here (I could be wrong).

The X and Y are carrying the output audio signal to the meter PCB for VU monitoring...X and Y are used to read the voltage difference between pins 2 and 3 then it's displayed on the meter, so phase isn't important here (the leads from the output transformer to X and Y are important for phase).

From the MNats page:
"It isn't crucial that you get X and Y to their respective pads on the meter board, but try to for sake of thoroughness and general accuracy."

Again I could be wrong so please let me know if I am.  ;)

Mike
 
Mike,
Thanks for the help. You're right according to mnats' website it doesn't matter which is which when connecting the X Y pad. Maybe you could help me with my other issue? Is it possible to wire a regular 10k audio pot for the input? I know it's recommended to use the T pad attenuator but I noticed there is an "H" pad before the input transformer. I'm confused on how to use this H pad and an input pot. Thanks.
 
Echo North said:
I don't think phase is an issue here (I could be wrong).

The X and Y are carrying the output audio signal to the meter PCB for VU monitoring...X and Y are used to read the voltage difference between pins 2 and 3 then it's displayed on the meter, so phase isn't important here (the leads from the output transformer to X and Y are important for phase).

From the MNats page:
"It isn't crucial that you get X and Y to their respective pads on the meter board, but try to for sake of thoroughness and general accuracy."

Again I could be wrong so please let me know if I am.  ;)

Mike

Mike I misunderstood your comment.
 
Actually my first post is very misleading and I would hate some to do a search and think I was speaking about the output transformer.

I've edited it to avoid confusion.

Thanks for the catch Rob!

Mike
 
Yes, Stagefright13, I'll end up using a T pad. I was just wondering if a normal pot could be configured to work like on the G1176.
 
Hi folks,

I used this 1uf 63v WIMA film cap: http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=MKS2-1.0/63/5virtualkey50520000virtualkey505-MKS21.0/63/5
for C17 in my revA board. I recently noticed that mnats' photo shows an electrolytic in C17. And after looking through other folks' revD boards (i *think* C17 does the same thing in that circuit), it seems like everyone uses an electrolytic in that spot. There are no spacing issues... was the wima a bad choice?
Thanks in advance for any advice

 
I've decided to do the pushbutton version of the 1176 instead of the rotary version. Mnats has such good directions on his site that I think I can pull it off. I'm about to order the package from Hairball Audio but I noticed that it doesn't include the switched for the ratio and meter bank. Could someone share a part number for the switches they've used? I'm about to put in an order for Mouser or even Digikey and don't want to order the wrong parts. Thanks.
 
Not sure what you mean?

Do you mean the attack knob with a bypass switch?

If so - Mouser part #3152415F25K

I sell the push button switches:
http://hairballaudio.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=30

They are also in the Kit:
http://hairballaudio.com/shop/index.php?cPath=22

Mike
 
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