Deejsirois
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2018
- Messages
- 50
Does anyone know where to find the voltage chart for the Rev F?
In the absence of a response, I created my own.
In the absence of a response, I created my own.
Last edited:
swap your cables...been shocked how many times cables have been wired improperly. The other thing to check would be to check to make sure your audio interface doesn't have polarity switched.Finished a rack-Rev A and it sounds glorious; however, it seems to be out of phase.
I have checked all the connections from transformers etc - and the input/output XLR's are basically soldered straight to the board (leaving no chance to swap a hot/cold wire). Has anyone else had this issue? If I "Ping" the unit from Logic, it usually gives me a +1 sample latency, but using it as an insert, I have to put a "gain" plugin on the channel to reverse the phase as it comes back in. It's a real bummer.
Any ideas on what to trace, or should I just live with having to flip the phase every time I use the unit? (I hope this isn't the case).
Have you been through the troubleshooting guide? Looks like section 3 and on is relevant maybe.I've been getting along pretty well at 8:1 but it bugs me the unit isn't working 100%.
You should also check all soldering on the 4:1 resistors circuit (look them up on the diagram), check for continuity and bad solder joints. Also test the all buttons in mode to see how it behaves (I think this mode bypasses all resistors directly to the fet)Hey there! I just finished a REV A build and everything seems to be working great except the 4:1 ratio setting. I have to absolutely crank the input to 6+ to get any movement of the meter and audible compression, and by then I've had to turn the preamp down so much and the input on the 1176 up so loud it's got an unusable amount of hiss and noise, or the signal becomes distorted.
Every other ratio works as expected and has been measured to be reducing db as indicated by the meter.
I have checked all of the components on the ratio sub-board and believe them to be correct. I am about 99% sure I installed the 1M R input drop mod, but I can't remember (I tried it with and without when it was still on my bench), and the unit is currently installed in my desk. I've been getting along pretty well at 8:1 but it bugs me the unit isn't working 100%.
Thanks in advance for any strategies to solve this one!
R81 and R82 are responsible for dropping that voltage down to -10, so I would assume that is the issue. Are they properly soldered?Hello Everyone. Building my first 1176 Rev A. It’s been a blast so far.
Finished the power section build and started to test.
I’m Very happy with the build so far, it’s coming together nicely.
i had one mishap and installed the wrong diode for CR9. After realizing my mistake I pulled it out and replaced it with the one I believe is the correct one. I had a horrible time getting the first diode out and the new one in. Wasn’t able to completely clear the old solder from the through hole… Looks shitty compared to how clean everything else is.
I powered up the unit and began to test. No sparks, or smoke when turned on. I did get some sparks when metering CR8.
30VDC at CR8
-40VDC at CR9!!
Anyone have any idea what it could be? Fried CR9 diode? I don’t have a meter that tests diodes unfortunately but will order one. Something not making contact. Checked grounding at the right side of CR9 and it’s fine.
please help!
thanks in advance!!
Jeremy
Hello!
I recently put together a Rev A kit that I purchased a few years ago (PCB V1.12 - newer plug/play PSU) and I'm having low audio output issues.
Basically, build went fine - PSU checked out with +30VDC and -10VDC at respective points, device does input and pass signal, however, when attempting to do the very first calibration process (Qbias), I cannot output more than 1.2~VAC, not even close to the requested +11dB/2.75VAC (input set to .775VAC, Input knob set to 24). That's even with the output knob completely cranked/zeroed.
I went to the troubleshoot section of the Hairball site and started testing.
First test was for QBias Voltage - Requesting -1 VDC to -1.78 VDC at TP18 when setting QBias trim from mix to max. I did pass this with accurate voltages.
The next test requested setting the input knob to read 0.100VAC at TP1, and then check Q2 Gate, Q3 Base, and TP15. Q2-3 and TP15 were all very low voltages.
So this points me to the output circuit then? I guess my question is, where do I go and what do I look for from here? I'm currently double checking transistors and for cold joints, but nothing seems too obvious.
Lastly, unrelated, my meter does not seem to move at all. I'm assuming it's damaged? It lights up but that's it.
Thanks!
For the meter, make sure you haven't over tightened the mounting screws. To test it, unplug the unit and feed an AC signal from your signal gen to the terminals of the meter - slowly increase the signal to see if it shows signs of life.Hey all, I posted this awhile ago. I didn't get a response to this unfortunately. Hairball, or anyone, have any advice? Thank you!
That's the orientation Hairball has that little circuit board in their instructions. I think the arrow on the current 2.01 kit is a misprint. I've built approximately 90 of these units and I've always done it just the way you have in your photo. Here's the photo and link to the page...Here's an easy one I think. My lamp PCB has the 'front' arrow pointed opposite of the build guide photo. Should I attached it as pictured to match the build guide with the arrow pointing away from the front, or flip it so that the arrow points to the front of the unit?
Thanks for the response! Just to clarify, are you saying you've built the 2.01 kits with the PCB oriented like in the guide, or you're assuming the PCB is a misprint because it seems more likely than a change to the PCB traces? The product description of the meter describes the lamp as "Lamp box w/ 12VDC fuse style lamp". Fuses are not polarized I don't think, so maybe the orientation doesn't matter?That's the orientation Hairball has that little circuit board in their instructions. I think the arrow on the current 2.01 kit is a misprint. I've built approximately 90 of these units and I've always done it just the way you have in your photo. Here's the photo and link to the page...
https://www.hairballaudio.com/blog/resources/build-guides/fetrack-v2-buildbrstep-3-final-assemblyView attachment 92954
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