Working on a mixer with a bunch of mini fader / slider pots that somebody washed out all of the lube. They will now barely move right. Anybody been here done that and have a clue? My best guess was to inject them through the top with some sort of lube. Not sure which or if this will work. I'm kinda lazy but I don't really want to tech them all out and open them up and relube them, but maybe that's the only way.
Slider / mini fader death. Previous tech wash out.
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chilidawg
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You can only use non-conductive silicone lube. Whether you can inject it from the top or have to take them apart to do it, can't say for sure. No clue what the slider pots look like. A photo would have been nice.
If they will barely move, they may need more than lube.
Is it possible to source replacement parts?
JR
Is it possible to source replacement parts?
JR
industrialarts
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I was just working on a Juno 6 that uses similar faders. If they are kind of stuck, it's possible that the old lube has gotten really gummy or that parts of the slider are slightly oxidized. You can try dripping some alcohol into the fader to see if it loosens up or you can take them apart and clean them up, I generally use alcohol to clean pots and faders. My advice would be to take them apart and use alcohol and q-tips to clean everything up
Silicon lube - like chilidawg mentioned - is your best choice to re-lube. Food grade silicon lubricant is available and is a good choice. When you take them apart there should be a sort of leaf spring to apply pressure to the fader element, you would want to put the silicon lube on that and the plastic slider, take care so as to not to damage the wipers.
Silicon lube - like chilidawg mentioned - is your best choice to re-lube. Food grade silicon lubricant is available and is a good choice. When you take them apart there should be a sort of leaf spring to apply pressure to the fader element, you would want to put the silicon lube on that and the plastic slider, take care so as to not to damage the wipers.
EthanSpaulding
Well-known member
It seems there is a problem with people fixing potentiometers in the short term with contact cleaner. Washing all the lube that is supposed to be there out. I would like to know the professional solution to this because it is so common. I sympathize!
I am not a professional repair guy, but the right fix is to replace with new sliders.
JR
These are different faders, the Syntaur link is just for rough reference.
This is for sure what happened. I have been guilty in the past. :-(
Exceptional rare these are
EthanSpaulding
Well-known member
Yes. I have been guilty in the past as well. I would like to know the solution. New pots are often not available anywhere for a large percentage of gear.
I think if you lose it up, possibly even with contact cleaner like Deoxit D5, and then replace the missing lubrication with something closer to the original viscosity, you may get it going.
This video is interesting where the repairman pulls the pots apart and cleans them in the ultra-sonic cleaner. I'm going to try this with some faders from an abandoned Urai GEQ shortly.
Good luck!
OK for today's TMI back in 1985 I had just started working at Peavey after being president of two different (small) companies. One of the first factory production problems I had to deal with was some scratchy "alps" pots on the mixer production line. The resident factory expert said he had seen this before and all we need to do is inject some XYZ lubricant. It sounded a little dodgy to me and since I had a good relationship with Alps from buying thousands of Alps pots for my kit business over the years before working at Peavey. So I called up Alps and asked them what they thought about squirting some lubricant into the noisy pots. They not only said no, but hell no (or the polite Japanese equivalent ). I inadvertently created a minor sh__ storm inside purchasing, when after my call Alps contacted the Peavey purchasing agent to see what the hell was going on. 
I received an angry phone call from the head of purchasing asking what was I thinking, contacting Alps directly? I said I didn't think anything of it, I had dealt with those guys personally for years before coming to work at Peavey. After the dust settled it turned out I was 100% correct to stop the factory from lubricating the pots with whatever. The staticky noise was in fact a form of static electricity from plastic parts (they had a fancy word for it).
That was not my only time to upset the good old boys apple cart inside Peavey... Growing my reputation as a yankee trouble maker.
JR
I received an angry phone call from the head of purchasing asking what was I thinking, contacting Alps directly?
I said I didn't think anything of it, I had dealt with those guys personally for years before coming to work at Peavey. After the dust settled it turned out I was 100% correct to stop the factory from lubricating the pots with whatever. The staticky noise was in fact a form of static electricity from plastic parts (they had a fancy word for it).That was not my only time to upset the good old boys apple cart inside Peavey... Growing my reputation as a yankee trouble maker.
JR
capacitor
Well-known member
I have a set of over-cleaned faders in an old Arp synthesizer, with the same problem. I'm pretty sure I can order a set of replacements like @JohnRoberts suggests. However, they don't have to be perfect, just smoother than they are now, so I'm going to try some silicone grease/oil on one. The idea is to try lubing at the top opening, with the fader tilted to the side, so that the faders don't have to come out.
Any suggestions for viscocity or a specific brand? I was thinking something thin such as
https://www.amazon.com/EDSRDUS-Viscosity-Multi-Purpose-Treadmill-Lubricant/dp/B09JFGY4HG
with the idea that it would flow in between the surfaces a little better?
Any suggestions for viscocity or a specific brand? I was thinking something thin such as
https://www.amazon.com/EDSRDUS-Viscosity-Multi-Purpose-Treadmill-Lubricant/dp/B09JFGY4HG
with the idea that it would flow in between the surfaces a little better?
industrialarts
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I'm not too sure, it looks like it has the viscosity of oil, you really want something that will stay in the track. I have done this many times and in the process right now with the Juno. I am taking a couple shortcuts since most of the pots are coming back to life but any of them that aren't responding are getting taken apart, cleaned and reloaded with lube.
More like this - https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-San...food+grade+silicone+gre,industrial,476&sr=1-5
More like this - https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-San...food+grade+silicone+gre,industrial,476&sr=1-5
I have no advice about lubricating pots other than don't do it... That's what alps told me. I have seen stories of pots rejuvenated by magic pot lube that failed even worse down the road.
Good luck
JR
Good luck
JR
industrialarts
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Alps pots or faders? Any pot that has a conductive plastic element will get damaged with anything that is petroleum based, like Naptha, so putting a cleaner in a pot is not always a good idea. Carbon element pots are a different story. I speak from experience, which is why I mostly use alcohol for cleaning now. Also, just putting any type of goop inside doesn't work so well either.
It's been a while since I had to clean an Alps fader. My recollection is that the wiper ran on a rail - is that right? If so, then the procedure was to wipe the element down with distilled water and lightly lube the rail.
If I might add, if you are adding lube, it doesn't go on the conductive element, only on the mechanical sliding parts.
Here are a couple of good articles about it. I tried to find the original one I read that explained 'velvety feel' - an actual term - but couldn't locate it. I'll keep searching
https://support.newgatesimms.com/potentiometer-maintenance-and-lubrication-case-study/
https://support.newgatesimms.com/yamaha-amplifier-case-study-potentiometer-damping-grease/
It's been a while since I had to clean an Alps fader. My recollection is that the wiper ran on a rail - is that right? If so, then the procedure was to wipe the element down with distilled water and lightly lube the rail.
If I might add, if you are adding lube, it doesn't go on the conductive element, only on the mechanical sliding parts.
Here are a couple of good articles about it. I tried to find the original one I read that explained 'velvety feel' - an actual term - but couldn't locate it. I'll keep searching
https://support.newgatesimms.com/potentiometer-maintenance-and-lubrication-case-study/
https://support.newgatesimms.com/yamaha-amplifier-case-study-potentiometer-damping-grease/
capacitor
Well-known member
Thanks for all the helpful info. I'm probably overthinking on keeping the original pots in there... Cleaning was done with Caig/Cramolin/Deoxit F5, so I think the conductive traces are ok. 10/4 on not lubing the conductive trace portion
Edit: I wonder if a 2 step process could work? Meaning using something low-viscosity to get things started, then higher viscosity, which could work it's way into the sliding parts without contaminating the conductive trace portion of the slider. I intend to find out. The ARP 2900 I'm wrenching on has pretty easily sourced replacement faders. However if I can fix these in-situ, that's a good technique to know
Edit: I wonder if a 2 step process could work? Meaning using something low-viscosity to get things started, then higher viscosity, which could work it's way into the sliding parts without contaminating the conductive trace portion of the slider. I intend to find out. The ARP 2900 I'm wrenching on has pretty easily sourced replacement faders. However if I can fix these in-situ, that's a good technique to know
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chilidawg
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Just use a non-conductive automotive or food grade silicone lube/grease with a medium viscosity, the same kind that we put in a motor gear box. Apply the grease on the mechanical portion of the slider pot using a toothpick to avoid a messy job.Edit: I wonder if a 2 step process could work? Meaning using something low-viscosity to get things started, then higher viscosity, which could work it's way into the sliding parts without contaminating the conductive trace portion of the slider. I intend to find out. The ARP 2900 I'm wrenching on has pretty easily sourced replacement faders. However if I can fix these in-situ, that's a good technique to know
Matt Syson
Well-known member
ALPS K series faders should be cleaned as described above, being a wipe of the carbon track with a lint free cloth, maybe moistened with water and then 'half of a tiny spot' of silicone oil on the two running bars taking great care not to get any oil on the carbon tracks. I noticed that from new, they would get a 'bit scratchy' in 6 to 9 months depending on use but after just a quick wipe with a clean cloth they would give no more trouble for years. Like they have a 'run in' period and once they are over that they stay happy.
Penny and Giles have a cleaning regime explained on their website (I think) which is water wash the conductive plastic track, then a hint of spray PTFE then polish with a lint free cloth, then a tiny spot of silicone oil on the slide bars only.
Using the wrong 'product' risks damaging any plastic elements of pots and faders but pots that HAD a 'grease' from manufacture need to have it replaced and of course very few know what the original grease was.
Penny and Giles have a cleaning regime explained on their website (I think) which is water wash the conductive plastic track, then a hint of spray PTFE then polish with a lint free cloth, then a tiny spot of silicone oil on the slide bars only.
Using the wrong 'product' risks damaging any plastic elements of pots and faders but pots that HAD a 'grease' from manufacture need to have it replaced and of course very few know what the original grease was.
scott2000
Well-known member
When I was restoring an old Makie mixer with frozen pots from their grease hardening, member Newmarket ,iirc, recommended checking out Kilopoise damping grease and it worked well in that context.
rmoondoggy
New member
I have had good results with this:
