U47 clone : AMI or IOAudio +Aputis ? First build ! And capsule question, too...

[ln76d]

And I guess I can easylly resell the K49 if I don't like it.

Probably you will like it
These are in my opinion one of the best capsules on the market.
Still i think M7 is really great choice for U47 circuits.
Anyway resell  rather wouldn't be anything profitable.
Different situation is with old capsules.
For currently made, even if you will never use it, you will have to drop the price pretty much.
If the difference from original price is small, usual most people will go direct to Neumann/Sennheiser.

 

[Avgatzeblouz]

True. But using a K49 for a year, and then ressell it with loss is nothing than normal. And I doubt that would happen ! By the way, I posted on KH forum about the differences in use with K49 and K47fet. he said the differences are so small due to great quality control, that I should get the cheapest one. And The K47fet is 200$ less... I wonder about the mount, now.
About M7, I must say I have no clue. I won't have any opinion before hearing side by side an M7 and a K47. So many posts telling a different story...

 

[AusTex64]

Blouz,

You won't be disappointed with either capsule. I built with an AMI kit using PVC Thiersch M7, AMI BV8 and Telefunken EF802 tube (same combo as Oliver used in Lucas CS-4). AMI supplied ALL the parts (body, headbasket, transformer, PSU, tube, cable, Binder connectors, Thiersch capsule, tagboards, caps, resistors, etc), which coincidentally were all the exact same parts used in CS-4. Nice! I figured Oliver had put a good amount of time into sorting out all these details, and I'm lazy, so I went with his experience. I didn't have to shop around to get the stuff I needed, it all showed up in the same box. Well, I did buy some silver coated 28 gauge Teflon wire off eBay for hookup and some silver solder from Fry's. But that's about it. And I ended up with a stellar mic.

Whatever U47 you end up building, be sure it has the ability to switch the back diaphragm off when in cardioid mode, like the original U47. You gain 3dB more output and lower noise. This is the setting I use almost all the time for vocals. I did it using a relay, the way Oliver did it in CS-4. Wow I miss that guy.

Also, when handling the capsule, use rubber gloves. It's just too easy to touch the diaphragms with a finger or knuckle, and then you have a grease spot. I also don't touch 1G ohm resistors anymore, only use surgical hemostats. Too easy to get skin oil on them. There's a thread here on building the AMI kit where I posted a layout diagram and other info, might come in handy if you choose to go that route. Dany's PCB are very nice too. We're all lucky to have so many great choices and support for DIY!

 

[ln76d]

With any Neumann K4X you can't go wrong, only disadvantage is that for the more pattern than cardioid, you will have to install wire, Since Dan is your "neighbour", i think that he will be able to help you  

 

[Avgatzeblouz]

With any Neumann K4X you can't go wrong, only disadvantage is that for the more pattern than cardioid, you will have to install wire, Since Dan is your "neighbour", i think that he will be able to help you

OK, thanks. He's not my neighbour anymore, he moved, but that's just an hour drive. Thanks for that, I was not aware. Yeah, he would definitely be the guy to install that capsule. I will contact him when I'm ready.

 

[ln76d]

Blouz,

You won't be disappointed with either capsule. I built with an AMI kit using PVC Thiersch M7, AMI BV8 and Telefunken EF802 tube (same combo as Oliver used in Lucas CS-4). AMI supplied ALL the parts (body, headbasket, transformer, PSU, tube, cable, Binder connectors, Thiersch capsule, tagboards, caps, resistors, etc), which coincidentally were all the exact same parts used in CS-4. Nice! I figured Oliver had put a good amount of time into sorting out all these details, and I'm lazy, so I went with his experience. I didn't have to shop around to get the stuff I needed, it all showed up in the same box. Well, I did buy some silver coated 28 gauge Teflon wire off eBay for hookup and some silver solder from Fry's. But that's about it. And I ended up with a stellar mic.

Whatever U47 you end up building, be sure it has the ability to switch the back diaphragm off when in cardioid mode, like the original U47. You gain 3dB more output and lower noise. This is the setting I use almost all the time for vocals. I did it using a relay, the way Oliver did it in CS-4. Wow I miss that guy.

Also, when handling the capsule, use rubber gloves. It's just too easy to touch the diaphragms with a finger or knuckle, and then you have a grease spot. I also don't touch 1G ohm resistors anymore, only use surgical hemostats. Too easy to get skin oil on them. There's a thread here on building the AMI kit where I posted a layout diagram and other info, might come in handy for you.

+1 for "cardioid only" setup pointing!
Makes difference

Personally i would rather use PB solder, since it has better soldering properities than silver (it is also better for first-timers).
Except audiophiles, usual not seeing often that silver tin is anything better.
Most servicemen, technicians which i know usual hate it. Especially if you need resolder anything, remove old thin.
Another thing is that it's much more hard to spot cold joint and require better soldering station (temperature control).
But as with everything else - everyone has it own methods and likes

 

[micaddict]

Yeah, he would definitely be the guy to install that capsule. I will contact him when I'm ready.

And while he's at it ... 

 

[Pip]

Blouz,

You won't be disappointed with either capsule. I built with an AMI kit using PVC Thiersch M7, AMI BV8 and Telefunken EF802 tube (same combo as Oliver used in Lucas CS-4). AMI supplied ALL the parts (body, headbasket, transformer, PSU, tube, cable, Binder connectors, Thiersch capsule, tagboards, caps, resistors, etc), which coincidentally were all the exact same parts used in CS-4. Nice! I figured Oliver had put a good amount of time into sorting out all these details, and I'm lazy, so I went with his experience. I didn't have to shop around to get the stuff I needed, it all showed up in the same box. Well, I did buy some silver coated 28 gauge Teflon wire off eBay for hookup and some silver solder from Fry's. But that's about it. And I ended up with a stellar mic.

Whatever U47 you end up building, be sure it has the ability to switch the back diaphragm off when in cardioid mode, like the original U47. You gain 3dB more output and lower noise. This is the setting I use almost all the time for vocals. I did it using a relay, the way Oliver did it in CS-4. Wow I miss that guy.

Also, when handling the capsule, use rubber gloves. It's just too easy to touch the diaphragms with a finger or knuckle, and then you have a grease spot. I also don't touch 1G ohm resistors anymore, only use surgical hemostats. Too easy to get skin oil on them. There's a thread here on building the AMI kit where I posted a layout diagram and other info, might come in handy for you.

+1 for "cardioid only" setup pointing!
Makes difference

Personally i would rather use PB solder, since it has better soldering properities than silver (it is also better for first-timers).
Except audiophiles, usual not seeing often that silver tin is anything better.
Most servicemen, technicians which i know usual hate it. Especially if you need resolder anything, remove old thin.
Another thing is that it's much more hard to spot cold joint and require better soldering station (temperature control).
But as with everything else - everyone has it own methods and likes

Off topic slightly. But I need to speak to the Silver Solder point. Yes all that is true. But there are some other points to be considered. Not all Silver Solder is the same nor does it respond the same way. There are some brands out there that have done their homework (any one PM's me I will share what I have been using for over 15 yrs) with the flow vs heat vs cool state issues. All repair techs bitch about everything! I know I have been one on and off for almost 30 yrs. No I will not waste your or any one's  time with sonic properties of solder of any type.... But I will state this fact Silver and Silver Oxide have the exact same conductive properties so over time there will be little if any change in this area!

 

[Avgatzeblouz]

And while he's at it ... 

 

[AusTex64]

I only use silver solder when working with silver coated Teflon wire in mic builds. I find it flows better and sticks to the silver coating better. YMMV.

 

[ln76d]

Off topic slightly. But I need to speak to the Silver Solder point. Yes all that is true. But there are some other points to be considered. Not all Silver Solder is the same nor does it respond the same way. There are some brands out there that have done their homework (any one PM's me I will share what I have been using for over 15 yrs) with the flow vs heat vs cool state issues. All repair techs ***** about everything! I know I have been one on and off for almost 30 yrs. No I will not waste your or any one's  time with sonic properties of solder of any type.... But I will state this fact Silver and Silver Oxide have the exact same conductive properties so over time there will be little if any change in this area!

If you could PM me some good ones i'll be really happy
For the many years i didn't found anything which could be usable for my needs.
Tried many different brands, local, imported etc.
Once i had some Japan made (don't remember manufacturer name) which was not so bad but overall still prefer work with PB.
I don't know how this is with tin with silver, but overall silver has tendency to oxidizing? And PB?
Anyway for some tips about silver tin which isn't pain in the ass i'll be really happy.
I think it's important part of building any electronic gear and since the topic is about first build - maybe it's worth to mention few things Anyway don't real see off topic  here
And yeah - please - no discussion about sonic differences between tin types...

I only use silver solder when working with silver coated Teflon wire in mic builds. I find it flows better and sticks to the silver coating better. YMMV.

I read many times that's better to use silver tin  for silver wires/leads etc.
Anyway i mostly use (especially in microphones) silver or silver/copper wires and still got better results with PB